Unit IX

FOOTWEAR PARTS

TEXT A

I. Read and remember the words and their translation:

1. vamp – союзка, перед взуття

2. quarter – берець

3. lining – устілка, підкладка

4. tongue – язичок

5. toe-puff – підносок

6. toecap – носок

7. topline – верх

8. collar – окантувальна тасьма, накладний кант

9. eyelet – блочка

10. stiffener – жорсткий задник, підсилювач, підкріплюючий елемент

11. girth – обхват, попруга

12. saddle – сідло

13. throat – виріз союзки

14. lacing – шнуровка

15. counter – задник

II. Read and remember the following phrases:

1. convalescent shoes – ортопедичне взуття

2. prolonged probation – тривале випробування

3. longitudinal – продольний

4. broadening – розширення

5. posterior end – задня частина

6. padded – підбитий, набитий

7. to reinforce – підсилювати

8. dorsum – тильна частина

9. foxing – шматочок шкіри, що використовується для надання жорсткості або оздоблення верху взуття

III. Read and translate the following text:

Shoe uppers

All parts or sections of the shoe above the sole that are stitched or otherwise joined together to become a unit then attached to the insole and outsole. The upper of the shoe consists of the vamp or front of the shoe, the quarter, i.e. the sides and back of the shoe, and the linings. The vamp covers the dorsum of the foot, including the tongue piece, and superior aspects over the toes. This section, i. e. the toe-puff is reinforced which serves to give the shoe its shape as well as protect the toes. The vamp is often made of more than one piece, creating a decorative pattern. There are various vamps suitable for different styles of shoes.

The complete upper part of the shoe behind the vamp line covering the sides and back part is called quarter. The top edge of the sides and back of the quarter describes the topline of the shoe. In athletic shoes the topline is often padded and referred to as a collar. The medial and lateral sections join in a seam at the posterior end of the shoe. In Oxford style lacing shoes, the eyelet section is formed by the superior part of the quarter, while the underlying tongue is a part of the vamp. The heel section of the quarter is frequently reinforced with a stiffener. This helps support the rear foot. In boots the quarter is often referred to as “top”. In the Bal method, the front edges of both quarters are stitched together and covered with the back edge of the vamp. In the Blucher method, the quarter panels are placed on the top of the vamp, and the front edges are not sewn together. In comparison with the Bal method, the Blucher method permits the fitting of a larger foot girth by broadening the throat of the shoe. A convalescent shoe (open to toe) is a variation on the Blucher method in which the lacing extends to the front edge of the vamp. In athletic shoes the vamp and quarter panels are often one piece of nylon or leather with additional leather pieces added to reinforce critical areas of the shoe. Reinforcement added to the region of the medial longitudinal arch is termed the saddle if it is added to the outside of the shoe or the arch bandage if it is added to the inside of the shoe.

The central part of the vamp just proximal to the toe box is the throat. The throat is formed by the seam joining the vamp to the quarter, i. e. throatline. The position of the throat line depends on the construction of the shoe, for example, a shorter vamp and longer quarters define a lower throat line. This gives a wider lower opening for the foot to enter the shoe. The throat is defined by the connection of the rear edge of the vamp and the front part of the quarter. The location of the throat will vary with the design of the shoe. Because the vamp and the quarter panels are often one piece in the athletic shoe, the throat is at the eyestay. This refers to the point where the lacing is attached to the vamp. The throat of the shoe dictates the maximum girth permitted by the shoe.

The counter is the component of the quarter that stabilizes the hind foot in the shoe and retains the shape of the posterior portion of the shoe. Counters are usually made from fiberboard or heat moulded plastic. Foxing is an additional piece of leather that covers the counter externally. Sometimes a counter will extend medially to support the heel and prevent prolonged probation. In some children’s shoes and athletic footwear the stiffener is extended on the medial of the arch to provide an anti-pronatory wedge.

Many shoes incorporate a toecap into the upper of the shoe. Toecaps are either stitched over or completely replace the distal superior aspect of the vamp and can be made into a decorative features referred to as toe tips. The toe box refers to the roofed area over and around the part of the shoe that covers the toes. The function of the toe box is to retain the shape of the forefoot and allow room for the toes. The height and the width of the toe box is dictated by shape of the last used to construct the shoe. Certain types of non-athletic and athletic footgear will offer extra depth in the toe box.

In quality shoes the quarters and vamps are lined to enhance comfort and durability. Linings may consist of various materials i. e. leathers, fabrics and man-made synthetics. The lining on the sole segment is called the sock and may be full-length, three-quarter or just the heel section. Many linings are made of synthetic material and are usually confined to the quarters and the insock.