Visit Elbrus, Europe’s tallest mountain (4,604)

"No true mountaineer will ever refuse to recognize the unique majesty of the monarch of the Caucasus," wrote noted British mountain explorer and writer Douglas Freshfield. The landscapes of the Caucasus Mountains of Russia are considered even more beautiful than the European Alps. Deep forests, alpine meadows carpeted with wildflowers and dramatic glaciated peaks, including Europe's highest, the twin summits of Mount Elbrus are the reason for thousands of people to come repeatedly to Elbrus for years.

The high season for all kinds of ski and snowboarding hype is in full swing. Along with famous Alpine resorts Russia, indeed, does have something to offer for extreme sports lovers and mountaineers. Elbrus, Europe's tallest peak at 5,642 m pierces the sky in the Western Caucasus on the border of Kabardino-Balkaria and Karachay-Cherkessia regions. A dead volcano that has been dormant for about 2,000 years has two tops and enough flat slopes that can be enjoyed not only by professional climbers, but also by people with little mountaineering experience and skill. Apart from being the highest peak in Europe, Elbrus has an old story of its own. According to Greek myths it was there that Prometheus was chained to a rock as a punishment for stealing gods' fire and giving it to the people. Still Elbrus and the adjoining area remains something special: savagely uncivilized on one hand and wildly hospitable on the other.

Travel to the Europe's roof for an inexperienced and toffee-nosed tourist can present a great challenge and a cultural shock as well. First, do not believe the US government when it says America is populated by some 200 million Caucasians. The term, coined by the explorer Johann Friedrich Blumenbach, derived from the mountain area and came to refer to all white people. The term has not been in scientific use for centuries. Also, take into account that in Russia the inhabitants of the Caucasus are sometimes derogatorily called "black" in contrast to ethnic Russians.

Elbrus presents a good opportunity to get to know not only magnificent nature, but also the true Caucasian spirit. Be prepared for a little adventure from the very beginning when you find yourself in a motley crowd loaded with skis and snowboards in the airport. Fortunately, regulations limit drinking and ban smoking aboard. Your destination is the strangely named airport of Mineralnye Vody (‘Mineral Waters' literally, but after the flight it seems Fire Waters would be more appropriate here). After paying the 500 rubles you enter a ramshackle bit of a "marshrutka" for a 3.5-hours' rollercoaster ride on a rundown highway spiral with occasional stops at traffic police stations, where a traditional bit of homage is paid. Tradition must be observed to cast away the road demons, so to speak. Certainly, for a larger sum you can hire a taxi. Remember that absolutely every car is a possible taxi (the militia may even stop to give you a lift!). Just raise your hand to signal.

Perhaps, the best place to settle down is Terskol, which provides the happy medium of civilization (to the extent it is possible) and proximity to facilities and mountain paths. Housing facilities are mainly modest, both official tourists' camps and lodging in private flats and houses are available (the latter option is better, but is completely self-service). Places to eat are generally represented by moderately priced restaurants with Caucasian cuisine which can be no chef d'oeuvre, but simple, fresh and delicious. Caucasian shashlik and wines cognacs are a definite must. Skiers and snowboarders ind their paradise in mountains and sometimes hell in chairlifts and aerial tramways. The most popular and functional ski lifts are situated in the villages of Cheget and Elbrus; the former is a chairlift and the latter a tramway car. Those not afraid of heights and colds are advised to go to Cheget, but in this case it is always better to have your personal seat than to feel yourself a sarine in a tin inside of Elbrus' packed tramway. You can of course buy a ski pass, but a hundred ruble banknote to the operator will also suffice.

Anyways, the chairlift will take you up to 3,750 m above sea level to the so called Bochki (Barrels) mountain base, which is enough already to get a brief impression of the awesome scenery. If it fails to satisfy then take a short trip by snowcat up to Priyut 11 at the height of 4,100 which used to be the most highly placed hotel in the world before it burnt down 10 years ago as a result of negligence. Those not on a tight budget can rent all the necessary equipment, hire a guide and conquer the summit. The majority of visitors to Elbrus seem more than satisfied with skiing in the virgin snow and enjoying peaceful scenery and life.

IMPORTANT

The Elbrus Region is a border zone between Russia and Georgia, all foreigners must have a permit to be in any area south of the Baksan valley. This is obtained at the military head office of the border guard in Nalchik (Kabardinskaya Ulitsa,192). Passes are issues between 9.00 and 13.00. You should have the following documents:

- a stamped letter of application from an organization;

- passports of all participants:

- it is helpful to have a route sheet if climbing to the top.

It is also possible to arrange permits through numerous Russian travel companies.

Foreigners must also register with local authorities which is easy if you stay at an official hotel which makes it for you or you can register for additional payment at Mineralnye Vody airport.