Sandwiches

It is now 200 years since the famous occasion when the 4th Earl of Sandwich sustained himself throughout a 24 hours’ gambling bout on cold beef laid between slices of bread. The closed sandwiches to which he thus gave his name have steadily increased in popularity ever since. Because they are easy to make, portable, quick and tidy to eat, and can constitute an appetizer, a snack, or a whole meal, they fill many needs in modern life. The word “sandwich” has been adopted in all South European languages, as well as in Arabic and Turkish. Scandinavia, Germany, and East European countries, however, have invented their own open sandwiches which they call “butter breads”.

A good closed sandwich is moist and tasty and the filling dominates the bread. American sandwiches are often very large, with several layers, and may contain hot meat and gravy as well as fried eggs and salad; obviously such a sandwich, which is a meal in itself, must be eaten with knife and fork. The Spanish idea of a sandwich is a huge piece of ham or a whole omelette clapped between two vast hunks of dry bread.

Typical English sandwiches are small, thin, and neatly made of white, brown, or nut bread, old enough to slice well, and preferably square, cut in cross-section. Evenly cut slices are spread smoothly with margarine or butter which has been creamed, and then the filling is put on, right up to the edges and corners. The two slices, when closed, are pressed gently and cut into halves, squares, diamonds, or triangles, the crusts having been cut off. Some of the many fillings are savoury butters, sliced raw applies with honey and walnuts; raw carrot grated, with cooked salad dressing or lettuce; cucumber slices, with flaked kipper and vinegar; cottage cheese with strawberry jam, crushed pineapple, or chopped olives; hard cheeses grated, with chutney, lettuce, or tomato; hard-boiled eggs mashed with milk and flavoured with chives, curry powder, or anchovy essence; dates and walnuts with lemon juice; peanut butter with raisins and sliced oranges; ham and mustard or other cold meats with salads or relishes. Rolled sandwiches are made by rolling up a very fresh, crustless, buttered slice, spread with seasoned cream cheese or other soft filling, or containing an asparagus tip. It is best to fasten them with toothpicks and wrap them in a damp cloth till it is time to serve them. To make ribbon sandwiches, alternate slices of white and brown bread are filled and then wrapped in a damp cloth and pressed under a weight; just before serving they are sliced across ¼ inch thick. To make a sandwich loaf, a whole pan loaf, the crusts having been cut off, is cut in four slices lengthwise; the slices are put together with butter and fillings, and then pressed under a light weight; the surface is spread with mayonnaise or cream cheese and decorated; after it has been chilled for ½ hour, it is sliced and eaten with a fork. Toasted sandwiches are large sandwiches filled, for example, with mild cheese, bacon, or sliced tomatoes, brushed on the outside with melted butter, and toasted under the griller.