Bobbi_Brown_Makeup_Manual_Revised
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4 Concentrate on the crease. Continue to layer the shadow deeply enough to create a dramatic effect.
5 Use your finger to soften the shadow.
6 Start at the outside corner, using pencil or dark shadow or liner.
7 Apply in smooth strokes to the inner corner of the eyelid.
8 Line underneath the eye beginning at the outside corner, moving toward the inner corner.
9 Line as close to the lashes as possible.
10 Soften the line using a clean finger or Q-tip.
11 To give the pencil line staying power, use a liner brush to sweep a layer of eye shadow over the pencil.
12 Smudge the line to create a smoky look, somewhere between liner and shadow. The liner can be thickened.
13 Reapply to add more definition. Continue layering and checking for the effect you desire.
14 Final smoky eye.
For a more dramatic look, adjust your lip color.
Smoky eyes with pale lip color.
Smoky eyes with medium lip color.
Dramatic look with smoky eyes and dark lipstick.
ASIAN LINER APPLICATION
For Asian women, lining the eyes is a very important step in making the eyes stand out.
1 Gently pull the eyelid and start in the middle.
2 Go in close to the lashes.
3 Extend the line all the way across.
4 Reapply to make the line thicker.
5 Repeat the steps on the other eye.
6 Lined eyes.
Optional: If you choose to, line under the eye. Asian eyes look best with a very soft shadow line.
Blend the liner with your fingers.
ASIAN DRAMATIC LINER APPLICATION
It’s important to check the result of the eyelining when the eyes are open. You need to make the lines thick enough to show.
1 Simple eyeliner.
2 For more drama, make the line thicker.
3 And thicker.
4 Or go way out.
5 Make the line thicker along the lash line and see how far you want to go.
6 If you use strong eyeliner, skip the eye shadow in the crease.
Permanent Solution?
Just say no to tattooed liner. It never looks natural, and the color usually fades to an ashy gray or blue color over time. Deep brown eyeliner can freshen and help the line look natural again.
EYELASHES
Lashes open up and emphasize the eyes. Most lashes are transformed with a sweep of mascara and the use of an eyelash curler. Black mascara is always my first choice. For women with very fair coloring or those who have naturally blond lashes, mascara is a must. Product choices include mascara, curlers, and false lashes.
Formulas
THICKENING MASCARA is designed to make lashes appear fuller. To avoid clumping, wipe the wand before use; following application, the lashes can be separated with a lash comb, or separate them as you go.
LENGTHENING MASCARA is a thinner formula than the thickening product, so it lengthens lashes in a way that looks natural.
WATERPROOF MASCARA is great to use on those occasions when you anticipate tears or sweat, or in humid climates. The product can be removed only with an eye makeup remover specially formulated for waterproof products.
COLORED MASCARAS are fun for the very young and for making theatrical or fashion statements. Henna-colored mascara can work for those with light red hair.
EYELASH CURLING
Start with clean lashes. Gently lift the lid, hold the curler in front, and move the arm up to curl lashes. Hold for five to ten seconds.
Tips
You can also curl lashes by gently pressing them up with your fingers as the mascara dries. The blackest of black mascara makes eyes stand out the most.
MASCARA APPLICATION
When applied properly, mascara will both define your eyes and make them stand out. Remember, you’ll need two to three coats for impact.
1 Wipe the tip of the wand. Gently lift the lid. Looking down, begin at the outside of the eye.
2 Move the wand in close to the nose.
3 Be sure to apply mascara close to the base of the lashes.
4 Separate the lashes as you go along.
5 If you smudge the mascara, wipe it instantly before it dries.
6 If mascara dries on your skin, use a Q-tip to clean it up with a bit of non-oily makeup remover.
7 Wait a few seconds before beginning the lower lashes. Apply mascara lightly to the lower lashes.
8 Turn the brush at an angle to get all the lashes.
9 The finished product.
False Eyelashes
False eyelashes are used to create a more dramatic-looking eye and for special effects. Lashes can be applied individually, in a small section, or in a full band. Eyelash glue comes in white, clear, and black. I prefer black as it blends into the lash line.
Eye Makeup Removers
Eye makeup removers are available in liquid, lotion, and cream formulations. Find a product that thoroughly removes your eye makeup without causing any irritation or stinging. Generally, a non-oily product will remove makeup quickly and easily. However, when using waterproof makeup, oil-based removers are the most effective. Place a nickel-size amount of the product on a cotton ball, and gently press through the eye area to dissolve the makeup. If needed, repeat this process until the cotton ball comes away clean.
Troubleshooting: Eyelashes
There are many effective ways to create the illusion of lashes without false eyelashes.
Sparse eyelashes
For those with sparse lashes, try smudging dark shadow at the lash line with a liner brush and then applying two thin coats of mascara.
Pale lashes
Very light colored lashes sometimes don’t look natural with black or very dark mascara. Try light brown or henna-colored mascara for a natural look.
No lashes
When lashes have been lost due to alopecia or chemotherapy, a double application of powder shadow in a smoky shade helps create the illusion of lashes. First, use a damp brush and powder shadow to line the lid close to the lash line, and then smudge the dry shadow from the lashes upward.
FALSE EYELASHES APPLICATION
This takes time, patience, and practice. Many women go to a professional to have them applied.
1 Use a lash tweezer to pick up a lash. Begin with small lashes.
2 After dipping the lash in glue (use dark glue instead of clear) give it a few seconds to air dry partially.
3 Start at the outside of the eye.
4 Close your eye to continue the application.
5 Gently build the lashes toward the center, using five to ten lashes.
6 Use your finger to hold each lash until it dries.
7 After the glue dries, apply mascara.
8 The finished product.
Chapter 7
TEN-STEP GUIDE TO PERFECT MAKEUP
Makeup is simple. When you know how to apply it and have an organized makeup drawer, it should take only five to ten minutes. Practice is the key.
A basic, simple look requires ten steps. Make sure you apply makeup in the correct sequence.
Pre-Makeup
Moisturizer is the key to fresh-looking skin. It creates the perfect base for makeup. For normal skin, use a lightweight moisturizing lotion. For dry skin, use a rich hydrating cream or balm. For oily skin, use an oil-free formula that hydrates and helps control oil production.
Always begin with a lightweight eye cream to ensure that under-eye concealer goes on smoothly and evenly.
When skin looks dull, use an exfoliant to help slough off dead skin cells.