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DESIGN IN CLOTHING AND FOOTWEAR

Clothing, headwear, footwear, and accessories businesses are the fashion industries par excellence. As such their goal is to give the wearer a sense of well-being based on being attractive to oneself and others. At the same time, an inescapable function of fashion in most countries is to serve as a status symbol, a consideration leading to the wardrobe concept in designing; that is, separate business attire, evening wear, casual clothes, spectator-sportswear, active-sportswear, and other prescribed attire that clothing entrepreneurs and designers promote.

Designers use five elements to create a design that will stimulate the potential consumer to buy: colour, silhouette, drape, texture, and line balance on the product's surface. Design ideas are derived from configurations or colour combinations or both in historical, ethnic, national, natural, geographic, and current themes that can be advertised and promoted to boost sales. Besides choosing textiles and other raw materials with specific properties and characteristics of colour, drape, hand, and texture, the designer selects findings—buttons, zippers, snaps, grommets, thread, lace, tapes, braids, medallions, sequins, and a variety of ornaments and closures—as decorative devices to impart the desired design effect. Line balance is generally achieved by the sectional patterns of raw materials such as textiles and leather that the designer shapes to form the finished product. Fashion in clothing and footwear operates in cycles, but with respect to design construction, clothing and footwear may be lined, interlined, or unlined regardless of the cycle.

Designers use a variety of fitting forms for clothing, shoe lasts for footwear, and hat blocks for headwear, approximating human anatomical dimensions. The basic patterns that fit the form, last, or block with minimal seams and skintight precision form the foundation pattern. In the drafting method of designing style patterns, the designer manipulates the foundation pattern to develop the style pattern, which is used to cut the raw materials into the sections required for the garment. The drapery method is used by designers who prefer to drape the actual material for the garment on the form, block, or last; cutting patterns for cutting the raw materials are traced from the draped sections. Cutting patterns may be made of rigid or semirigid paper or plastics.

Pattern grading, making sets of patterns to fit a range of sizes, is the next step in the design process. Anthropometric tables for sizing apparel have been compiled by various government agencies and other sources. Formerly pattern grading was a completely manual drafting process, but in the 1950s pattern-grade machines were invented to increase the speed of grade-drafting patterns.

These machines were manually paced; that is, they followed the lead of a draftsman. But in 1967 the computerized grader machine was invented to grade and cut patterns directly from an original set, performing automatically without manual contact with the drafting and cutting process. By 1970 various U.S., British, and Japanese computerized (computer) graders were available, which automatically take measurements from a set of style patterns, then grade, draft, and cut sets of patterns in the sizes desired. These computerized graders contain memory banks of the anthropometric specifications required. Some computerized grading machines can provide graded patterns in any of three media: acetate patterns for making photo markers; rigid plastic patterns for conventional chalk, crayon, pen, pencil, or spray manual marking methods; or stack drafts, which put the entire desired size range from smallest to largest, concentrically, on one sheet. In conjunction with any of these, the computer can issue data sheets with costing and material usage per size or range. The actual processing of the raw material begins after the patterns are graded.