Vocabulary

agriculture n	-	сельское хозяйство
apart from	-	не говоря о
dart n	-	вытачка
to fit v	-	сидеть на фигуре
fitted adj	-	облегающий фигуру
flannels n	-	фланелевые брюки
lounge jacket n	-	пиджак, как часть костюма
no longer	-	больше не
revers n	-	реверсы, разновидность лацканов
suede n	-	замша
versatile adj	-	многофункциональный, универсальный
waist n	-	талия
wardrobe n	-	гардероб

Exercise 1. Read the text «Jacket Styles” to find the answers to the questions.

1. What have you learned about the origin of the jacket?

2. What styles of jackets were popular in the first half of the 18^th century?

3. Have jacket styles radically changed in the 19^th – 21^st centuries? Give examples from the text.

4. Has the term “jacket” assumed a much wider or narrower meaning in the early 2000s?

Exercise 2. Find the principal word in each of the following word-combinations. Translate them into Russian:

high quality fabric; formal and leisure activities; standard working dress; fitted single-breasted lounge jackets; middle-class men; country sporting activities; silk lapels; popular summer attire; brass buttons; waisted pockets.

Exercise 3. Translate paragraphs 1-2 into Russian in writing. Pay attention to participial and infinitive constructions.

Exercise 4. Read the text once more for better understanding. Draw sketches of modern jackets as you see them.

Explain 1) what similar features they have

2) what they differ in.

Reading for general understanding.

Text b. Parts of a Suit

The Silhouette

“The silhouette” is the term used by the clothing industry to describe the cut or shape of a suit. Today there are three distinct silhouettes of a man’s suit: the sack suit, the European-cut suit, and the updated American-style suit.

The sack, or the Brooks Brothers natural-shoulder suit has been, for almost a century now, the backbone of American clothing. It was a silhouette characterized by a shapeless, non-darted jacket with narrow shoulders (soft and unpadded) as well as by flap pockets, a single rear vent, and a three-or four-button front.

The European-cut silhouette popular in France and Italy for the past thirty years was characterized by a jacket with squarish shoulders, high armholes and a tight fit through the chest and hips. It is two-buttoned, its back is usually non-vented. The trousers tend to have a lower rise and fit more snugly through the buttocks and thigh.

The updated American silhouette is a combination of the best elements of the sack and the European-cut suit. The three-button sack coat was modified to a two-button version. Like the European model, the new American style jacket is tapered at the waist, giving the wearer something of a V-shaped appearance. The jacket has a longer lapel roll. This style also has a somewhat higher armhole and the chest is a bit smaller. The style has got national recognition and the widespread acceptance today.

Lapels

Lapels have always been a reflection of the fashion of the moment. They may be notch, peaked, shawl, or “trick” (which includes Mandarin and other non-conventional styles). The lapel along with the overall silhouette, is one of the most variable aspects of the suit with changing fashions: the 1930s and 1970s featured an exceptionally wide lapel width, and the 1980s saw mid-size lapels with a low gorge (the point on the jacket that forms the “notch” or “peak” between the collar and front lapel). Current trends are towards a narrower lapel and higher gorge.

Pockets

Among the types of pockets there are: patch pockets (for a more sporty style), flap pockets, and jetted pockets. The most typical style for a suit is the flap pocket; jetted pockets are most common on tuxedos because they are the most dressy. The flaps on the pockets should be consistent with the size of the lapels – neither too large nor too small.

Vents

A vent is a slit in the bottom rear (the “tail”) of the jacket. Jacket vents have a military heritage. Originally, a single vent at the center was introduced for militars riding a horse. This is the single-vented style, the other, two vent styles are the novent and the double-vented style with two vents at the sides of the bottom rear of the jacket.