- •Laymen’s rv step by step
- •Modifying your set up
- •I choose the negative.
- •Running directly from the grid
- •Tuning the alternator for radiant energy
- •Goals and advice
- •If you got your rv to run , then link your motors face to face. Alternator wiring. Switch off your rv first!!
- •Planning ahead by the numbers
- •Basic tuning essential steps
- •Measuring the current relation in the rv
- •Trouble shooting with Alternator exciting
- •Tuning guide lines for a pulse length frequency adjustable inverter
- •Connecting your load to your alt options
- •If you kill the resonance, your load is to high. Oscillation depletes due overloading.
- •Laymen’s Theory
Connecting your load to your alt options
Since the disclosure of hectors RV looped schematic, there have been many independent replications and attempts to emulate the extraction and looped results. To date hector has been the only person to loop the beast and tune and extract the proper parameters. Looping and extraction involves an advanced knowledge in Radio frequency principles. Hector has provided the necessary encouragement and information for others to learn and progress to this stage.
There have since been different routes taken to try and extract the OU residing in the LC. The individuals involved are at a very early stage of the research and development of the RV. Currently through individual open sourced experimenters
The following options have been proposed and experimented with.
This options include resonance collection circuits, diode plug and FET switching circuits. Hector has stated to hook up three same size caps in what he calls a "triple flux delta". There is also a consensus that switching two caps out (C1 charging C2
and C2 charging bat) as a way of not killing the resonance.
If you kill the resonance, your load is to high. Oscillation depletes due overloading.
Using 3 caps for triple flux configuration creates rotational resonant field.
Experiences showed that rotating resonant 3 phase field has higher Q than single phase at same machine.
You have to tune 3 caps at alternator. If you use delta configuration, you need to rectify the output with 6 diodes, putting 2 diodes to every phase, one +, one -.
Merge the 3 plus-diode-outputs and the 3 minus-diode-outputs.
You will get low ripple DC, and you can try different loads now. Again, if you overload the system, the oscillation depletes fully, and if so, your alternator
sometimes does not IGNIT any longer. Then you have to give a short current boost (car battery or something for ~ 1 second) through the coils ( at resting system! ) to re-polarize the rotor a bit.
Alternatively
Try these tests:
1. Remove the lamps or load from the alternator side but keep the alternator cap and tune it to minimum value, that still gets the voltage up and alternator generating. So now you have some load on prime mover (PM). 2. Now tune the PM cap and record the results - note the point where the cap is too small to sustain the generation at alternator side (PM gets too weak) and then try to increase the capacitance in small steps and record the prime mover input current and input voltage (your cap bank should be tunable in 0.5 or 1uF steps).
This will give you a very interesting characteristic or graph (especially the current is interesting, as the inverter tries to keep the voltage quite constant anyway).
Most probably you might discover, that by increasing the PM C at some point the input current starts to decrease instead of increasing (the alternator part should be always generating though and having it's virtual LC power up). When you see the input current decreasing part, then you are now playing with the resonance stuff.
Find the sweet spot where the PM input power is minimal, while the alternator is generating. If you have found this spot, then you are operating the RV in the right mode - the current resonance in the PM will give it a very big torque with quite small input current. 3. Only now when you have found this sweet spot, add some load to the alternator part. But first try so, that do not put lamps or load in series with the cap, but instead connect them so, that one end of the lamps is at the Y centre (0) and the other at the third phase C output (when the Cap is connected between phases A nad B). 4. Now when you have lamps connected (also make them tunable - start with lesser load and increase with small steps), the PM load should have increased a bit - so you need to re-tune the PM. Add some more C at the PM tunable C to again find the sweet spot where the PM input is minimal.
This is called "Tuning to the load" - always tune the resonance condition at the input to be suitable for you applied load. 5. Now add some load and re-tune the system with PM cap to minimal draw again, do it until the PM still can sustain the alternator generation or until you still can find the sweet spot with tuning the PM cap.
Also, if you run the RV from inverter, please use more than one 12V battery in parallel at the input, otherwise the consumed current from one battery could be too big and eventually your battery input voltage will drop too fast (although there might be resonance at the PM side, the active load at the alternator still needs some energy, which is needed to be compensated by the increased input power - but record the graph how input power increases versus the output power increasing). 5. Record also the input voltage and current and output voltage and current at the load for every test case with different load or PM cap. You can also play with the alternator cap value, if it does not want to generate any more with the bigger R load.
Note:
Looking at the pictures and diagrams of the particular motor junction box wiring here, there is no exposed Y common junction in this baldors connection box. Otherwise your connection (just for alternator) is OK as there are formed 2 Y stars in parallel as needed.
So going on the advice given above if you are modeling off this particular set up you cannot connect the lamp indicated in the above directions.
But instead connect it so, that when your vector cap is between/on connections 1 and 2 then connect the lamp between 2 and/on 3. Or when the cap is between/on 2 and 3 then connect the lamp between/on 1 and 2.
For the previously indicated connection system the both Y stars should have their central connections exposed and connected together. This is possible with 12-lead motors only I guess or if you have a single-winding motor with 6 leads (1 Y star only).
The principle is to just connect the cap between any 2 ends of the Y and the load between some other ends of the Y. Or, you can even try to connect the vector cap and load in parallel, both between 1 and 2 or between 2 and 3 or between 3 and 1. http://www.qsl.net/ns8o/Induction_Generator.html Here the guy has connected the load directly in parallel with the cap. Actually just try and see which combination gives you the best output power with least input power. And tune, tune, tune. If you somehow can make the common connection of all windings available to the outside,
(the centre junction of the internal Y, currently this connection is done inside the motor I guess as out come only 9 leads – 3 leads from the ends of internal Y-connected windings plus 6 leads from other windings),
You can even try the schematic here.

This needs 3 vector caps connected in delta. The load connection place is indicated with 230V text. OR, Actually can achieve this connection when you just leave the Baldors internal Y unused (do not connect 7,8 and 9 to anything) and connect together the 4,5,6. This is now the new center junction of the Y. Now connect 3 same-value caps between 1 and 2, 2 and 3, 3 and 1.
Then connect the load between 1 and 4. But connect the load only after the generator is started to generate and remove the load before shutting down the RV. The values of caps should be determined experimentally, probably they will be in the range of 20-50 uF.
Of course leaving the internal Y unused increases the alternator part's internal resistance, but that might not be a big problem if the load's resistance is not too low.
To keep it simple. The numbering scheme of all (most) motors is to start from 1 up to the number of winding-ends. - So if you have a motor with 3 windings, you go up to 6 for the numbering. - If you have a motor with 6 windings, you go up to 12. BUT some motors have the inner windings internally connected (you can't reach them), so you effectively have only 9 leads to the outside. The numbers 1, 2 and 3 are ALWAYS where you connect the mains or load. The other numbers are for wiring your motor according to the needs (delta or wye, low or high-voltage...), in other words the electrical behaviour of your motor. So it's now clear what 1, 2 and 3 are. As these are 3PH motors, they are typically connected to the 3PH mains (or a 3PH load in case of a generator). BUT in RV mode, we connect the motor to a single phase mains (or inverter) and create a virtual phase with the aid of a cap, so to have rotating phasing (else the motor will not rotate). In terms of connections:
- connect your single phase mains to any TWO of the three wires (1, 2, 3). - connect the 2 wires of your cap as follows: one wire to ONE same wire as above, and the other cap wire to the unused motor wire.
Example1: mains to 1 and 2; cap to 2 and 3 Example2: mains to 1 and 2; cap to 1 and 3 Example3: mains to 1 and 3; cap to 1 and 2 Example4: mains to 1 and 3; cap to 3 and 2 Example5: mains to 2 and 3; cap to 1 and 2 Example6: mains to 2 and 3; cap to 1 and 3 Note where I mention 'mains', this is for the prime-mover side. In case of alternator-side, replace this with 'load'. (mains is a power source, load is a power sink)...). Connections follow the same principle.
