Planning ahead by the numbers

 1)Get a mounting platform  i.e. 12" steel U channel and layout the mounting holes for both motors mounted face to face to face (note the mechanical drawings for the baldor motors are on baldors web site).

 Next drill tap the motor mount holes.  Note an example used was 1/4-20 (undersized hardware) on the alt motor so it would have some adjustment room to align the alt to the PM which also had to shim it as well.

 2) wire the PM like the drawing, because that doesn't change much while you experiment with alternator configurations.

 3)build a cap switch box for tuning the PM.  (can use terminal blocks and crimp lugs to wire the circuit. It makes it a lot easier to change/reconfigure that way).

 Once you get to this stage you can test the PM ,inverter, and cap tuning for minimum no load operation. Then progress to the alternator.

Basic tuning essential steps

If not using a variac for running directly from the grid. Get your battery and inverter and connect RV's prime mover to this 110V inverter. Also get the RV alternator to generate properly and put some load on this alternator. Then, with this load connected, tune the prime mover's vector cap to minimum current draw from the battery/inverter).

Try first to get the alternator to generate while driving with RV prime mover. Then measure the voltage on the alternator outputs and put about 500W of suitable-voltage lamps there. Then you should tune the prime mover's vector cap for minimum input draw.

You can (and probably should) also tune the alternator's vector cap size for stable generation (too small and it does not want to start to generate, too big and it will kind of oscillate - when generating, the drag on prime mover will be big and RPMs drop a bit, then generation and drag diminishes, RPMs grow again etc).What you certainly need, is 2 precisely tunable capacitor banks. Without them it is almost impossible (or very time consuming) to tune to RV mode.

Measuring the current relation in the rv

Quote form hector.

To measure the current relation in a RV, use 3 current shunts (can be resistors) 0.1 ohm in WYE. One leg goes to the source battery, one to return (generator to be tested, DC output), and the third to the load (inverter).

A common ground is used for all devices (G).

The inverter current must be the sum of return and battery current. As the return equals inverter current and battery current is 0 that is UNITY. When the battery voltage equals Return voltage = unity.

As current reverses into battery and battery voltage becomes lower than Return voltage, that signals you got over unity.

RV>BV=OU COP = RV/BV condition under full load.

a simple shunt is all that is needed to demonstrate OU (Current charging battery ) and a voltmeter to monitor voltage 12.7 optimal

a series of loads must be provided to prevent overcharge and create the hyper wave OU- non-OU  HI-LOW  wave cycles normal to a well tuned system . regulating load can be at any stage.

Note that a further undisputable accurate debunking and current relation measurement is available via earls submission in the third compilation of this series entitled RV energy saving applications.