Goals and advice

At first try to get the radiant energy and apply a load later, after this first step It’s no big modification. You need to know how much energy you get and in what a manner (what voltages, what amps) to know what you could choose for a load.

The motor specs call  20a ac for 220vac & 10a ac for 440vac (standard running configurations). This tells you the two motor coils in series/(each coil) are rated for 10a ac and two of the motor coils in parallel good for 20a ac.  The PM will be configured 440vac and run on 120vac. In this configuration it would be hard to damage the PM motor coils.  The alt motor when resonated will generate higher currents @ voltages so consider fusing. You  might also consider fusing/circuit breaking other system components.

For the cap box switches i used some surplus rocker types rated at 240vac @ 16aac.  Got them for $1.00 each from All Electronics Van Nuys calif.  Use higher rated voltage caps for alt testing.  For wiring the system i used 12awg wire. Try to keep the wiring short. Less I^2R losses. Larger wire (10awg)requires larger crimp lugs and terminal blocks.

Link your motors face to face.

First thing is to get the prime mover to run from inverter in RV mode.

One start cap, one run cap and a switch to disconnect the start cap(s) after the motor reached its normal rpm's.

If you got your rv to run , then link your motors face to face. Alternator wiring. Switch off your rv first!!

For getting radiant energy you don't need to wire your alternator for 3 phase circulation. Take one Phase at first. It's simpler. Wire your alternator for the lowest voltage possible.

Connect your cap bank to 2 of the 3 connectors on your alternator, no matter which you choose (but not the ground connection! Leave it always as it is.) Connect a volt meter parallel to alternator output.

Now switch your RV on. Switch cap after cap parallel to your alternator output and watch the output voltage. Be careful with the high voltage. It's not a toy.

With no caps connected, there will be no voltage. As you connect the caps, you will get some voltage. Alter the whole capacitance until you reach maximum voltage (near resonance). If using the particular motors listed in this guide it has been reported by an experimenter previously that the alternator resonated on a 130 uF value. This value depends on your grid frequency if using a variac, plus no two motors behaviour reacts the same.

As the alternator starts to generate, it will sound different. You will hear that. Try this at first. This is important experiences to get a feeling, what you deal with. After them you choose a load. Important: If you disconnect a cap while tuning and leave it disconnected, the cap can keep the charge! Don't touch the cap connections after a run (just unconnected caps; the connected ones will always be discharged through the alternator windings)!

There can be several 100 volts within the cap. Always discharge them first or use a high ohmic resistor over each cap, so that the caps always discharge via this resistor after each run! Safety first!

The cap values at alternator you have to tune you also have to tune (switch between higher/lower values) This single cap in the ALT schematics in reality are SOME caps in parallel. This is the point where a cap-bank becomes valuable.

At first, 470 Volts caps sounds ok. If you wired your motor for 110 V and drive it with original RPM, it will suffice. Higher rpm->lower capacitance needed, but higher voltage. But the uF must be tuned. So you need some caps, some bigger, some smaller.

Connect them as it is shown in this picture.

Every cap is connectable to the alternator via switch. the capacitance (uF) of all switched caps simply adds. Start with about 80uF (depends on your alternator). Turn the system on. If 80 uF is ok, you can now read a voltage over the cap. Always look at this voltage. Now change the whole capacitance a bit via switches in small steps, while system is running. Try to find the maximum voltage. This is the tuning-part. At maximum voltage you have radiant energy.

Remember your Prime mover run capacitance is much lower. One took 105 uF for start (not critical...can be 150 also), and just 15 uF for run. Prime mover tuning goes same way like alternator tuning. Connect some small caps in parallel as run cap.

Things to be aware of are , when you tune alternator, the load (run cap value needed to adjusted) for prime mover changes a bit, and prime mover can be detuned therefore again a bit. Retune PM, so maybe rpm changes a bit, results in low alternator detuning.

But this mega-tuning you will just need if you do OU-tests. High efficient PM and RE is already shown with roughly tuned system