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Welcome to London

London is a wonderful place to be, whether you're here for the first time or returning again. There are many treasures to discover – quaint architecture, crooked alleyways, a plaque on a wall, old markets, fish and chips, hospitable people, the greenness of a garden or a park, the view from a red bus – besides all the renowned sights for which the capital is famous. Indeed, Samuel Johnson's remark that «There is in London all that life can afford» still holds true.

History

The capital city of the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Northern Ireland and once the industrial, commercial and political centre of a vast empire, London lies astride the River Thames in southeastern England 40 miles from its estuary on the North Sea.

London began as a Roman settlement in AD 43 – where the City – London's financial district, stands today – and flourished as a market town for the next 350 years. In the classic pattern, at the spot where a road crossed the stream foreign invaders displaced the natives (Icenian tribesmen) and built a bridge and a city, Londinium. In Roman times the river was broader and shallower. Two small streams, the Walbrook and the Fleet, both of which still flow into the Thames but now through the underground conduits, enabled the Romans to bring boats inside their fortified city.

The most visible legacy from this era is the straight roads that led out of Londinium, as it was then known and which form some of the capital's main arteries — Oxford Street, Edgware Road, Kingsland Road. At the Museum of London, you can also view part of the Roman wall.

After the Romans left in AD 410, the town declined. The Anglo-Saxons who settled in the region were farmers living in small rural communities. But, by AD 800, London was a busy trade centre again. The town's strategic and commercial importance grew and it was fought over by Vikings and warring Saxon factions before falling into the hands of William the Conqueror in 1066. Under his reign, the Tower of London was built to protect the city.

During the next five centuries, London became a bustling medieval city of timber-framed buildings towering over narrow, winding streets, with gothic churches and cathedrals. It also became a city of slums, squalor and disease. The Black Death,1 halving the population of the city in 1348, and the Great Plague2 of 1665, claiming 100,000 lives, are only the most extreme examples of frequent epidemics that swept the city. Rich citizens were able to escape the filth and moved to the greener outskirts, thus expanding the West End.

Under the reign of Elizabeth I (1558-1603), the arts flourished and Bankside3 became London's first theatreland; it was here that Shakespeare's Globe Theatre stood, and the Bard's plays were staged. The district was home to the low-life, who thrived in brothels and taverns. But these establishments were shut down after the defeat of the monarchy in the English Civil War (1648) which brought an era of Puritanism. Only after the restoration of the monarchy, in 1660, were theatres tolerated again. The Theatre Royal, Covent Garden,4 was built, marking the beginning of the West End as an entertainment district.

Medieval London ceased to exist on 2 September 1666 when a fire which started in Pudding Lane destroyed three-quarters of the city. A new law required new structures to be stone, and the entire character of the City was changed. But there are a few ancient relics that survived the flames. In the midst of the raging conflagration was the Guildhall,5 which was able to withstand the flames because it was partially in stone. Also protected by stone were the Tower Green Tudor houses, safely within the fortified walls of the Tower of London.

In the 18th and 19th centuries, London mushroomed as a commercial centre; docks, bridges and canals were built and, in 1836, the first railway opened, forming the infrastructure that allowed England's industrial revolution to gather pace. Reacting against such progress, architects sought refuge in England's medieval past and many public buildings (the new Houses of Parliament) were done in gothic style.

By the start of the 20th century, London was a huge metropolis, but depression and wartime devastations took their toll. Development since then has seen the re-emergence of the South Bank as a centre for the arts and regeneration of the Covent Garden (once home to the fruitsellers) into a shopping area with piazzas, street cafes, buskers and boutiques.

But it's the former docks which now form the focus for the growth and may be responsible for turning the capital into a linear city.

London is a city of many faces. Historically, it can be described as a collection of villages, that have grown together. Regional variations that were once very noticeable when each village had a character of its own have not entirely died out. Since the end of World War II (although the process began earlier) differences between London's parts considerably reduced due to economic and social factors. Yet, when Professor Higgins in Shaw's

«Pygmalion» said that he could detect «phonetically» what part of London a man came from, «sometimes within two streets», there was the poetic truth behind the exaggeration. Few such differences survive, however.

Cockney6 speech still preserves its idioms and its accent in many parts of London, particularly in the old inner suburbs and working class districts.

Once again London is changing shape, but visitors continue to come and many return. As Moore said: ―Go where we may, rest where we will, eternal London haunts us still.‖

1The Black Death – Черная смерть (название чумы в Европе в 14 в., особ. эпидемии в Англии и Ирландии в 1348-49 гг.)

2Great Plague – Великая Чума (эпидемическая вспышка бубонной чумы в Лондоне в 1665 году)

3Bankside – Бенксайд (р-н Лондона на южном берегу реки Темзы)

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4Covent Garden – Ковент-Гарден (1. главный лондонский рынок фруктов, овощей и цветов с 1661 до 1974 гг.; 2. королевский оперный театр—по названию находившегося поблизости рынка)

5Guildhall – Гилдхол (здание ратуши лондонского Сити)

6cockney – кокни (лондонское просторечие, коренной лондонец, уроженец Лондона, особ. Ист-Энда)

Exercise. Match the years with the events.

 

 

Event

Time

1.

London began as a Roman settlement

a) by AD 800.

2.

The Romans left London

b) in 1348.

3.

London was a busy trade centre again

с) from 1558 till 1603.

4.

London fell into the hands of William the Conqueror

d) in AD 410.

5.

The Black Death halved the population of London

e) in 1665.

6.

The Great Plague claimed 100,000 lives

f) on 2 September, 1666.

7.

Elizabeth I ruled over the country

g) in 1660

8.

The Monarchy was defeated in the English Civil War

h) by the start of the 20th century.

9.

The Monarchy was restored

i) in 1836.

10. Medieval London ceased to exist when a fire destroyed three-

j) in AD 43.

quarters of the city

 

11. The first railway opened

k) in 1066.

12. London was a huge metropolis

1) in 1648.

Strange but True

Does your cab-driver have a bale of hay onboard? If not, he's breaking the law1 – London taxis are registered as «Hackney carriages» and, in the days when they were horse-drawn, animal-protection regulations ensured the horses would not go hungry. Fortunately for today's cabbies, it's a rule which, while still on the statutes, is no longer enforced.

The British – as you might have noticed! – drive on the left. Except, that is, in Savoy Courtyard, the short street which leads to the Savoy Hotel entrance, where they fall in line2 with most other nations. This dates from the days of horse carriages and allowed the driver to get down from the postillion3 and open the door for the ladies without first having to walk round the horses.

In medieval times, the River Thames frequently froze over. It was not because winters were colder then

but because the river was much wider, shallower and slower flowing. The words of the popular song read «Let's all go down The Strand4» and even London Underground has signposts to the Strand but, in fact, no such street exists – for the correct title is, simply, Strand and is derived from the days before land reclamation when the thoroughfare followed the river's edge.

Despite her role as sovereign, Her Majesty the Queen is not allowed to enter the boundaries of the City of London without seeking the express permission of its Lord Mayor5. London's financial hub, The City is also known as «The Square Mile». Most of the rest of central London is actually the City of Westminster.

Whitehall, now home to government offices and the Cenotaph war memorial,6 was the site of the

execution of Charles I, which led to England's short experiment as a republic – an era then known as the Commonwealth7 and now as the Inter-Regnum.8 Charles I was the shortest-ever adult King of England, at just 4ft 11-in (even shorter after they cut his head off!)

London boasts a free car ferry which crosses the Thames at Woolwich9 and also a private toll road, owned by the trustees of the public school in the picturesque suburb of Dulwich.10 Besides the ferry, Woolwich also has a little known foot-tunnel under the river, similar to the one popular with tourists visiting Greenwich.11

1to break the law [1э.] – нарушить закон

2to fall in line – солидаризироваться (с кем-л.)

3postillion – одна из передних лошадей, запряженных цугом

4The Strand – Стренд (одна из главных улиц Лондона, где расположены театры, фешенебельные магазины и отели)

5Lord Mayor – Лорд-мэр, титул главы муниципалитета некоторых крупных городов Великобритании и Северной Ирландии, а также лондонского Сити

6the Cenotaph war memorial – Сенотаф – обелиск в Лондоне на улице Уайтхолл, воздвигнутый в 1920 году в честь погибших во время первой мировой войны (от латинского cenotaphium— "пустая могила")

7the Commonwealth – Английская республика (существовала с 1649 до 1653 гг. и с 1659 до 1660 гг. во время Английской буржуазной революции)

8Inter-Regnum – "междуцарствие" (в Англии 1649-60 гг.)

9Woolwich – Вулидж (исторический район в восточной части Лондона)

10Dulwich – Далидж (живописный пригород южного Лондона со старинными домами, картинной галереей и парком)

11Greenwich – Гринвич (пригород южного Лондона. До 1948 года здесь находилась Гринвичская астрономическая обсерватория)

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Answer the questions:

1.Where does London lie?

2.How did London begin?

3.What's London's old name?

4.Who settled in the region after the Romans had left London in AD 410?

5.What is the most visible legacy from the Roman era?

6.What was London by AD 800?

7.Who was the Tower of London built by?

8.What was it intended for?

9.What did London become during the next five centuries?

10.What disasters fell upon London in 1348 and 1665?

11.Under whose reign did the arts flourish in London?

12.What part of London became its first theatreland?

13.What was it famous for?

14.Where did the low-life thrive?

15.What did the defeat of the monarchy bring?

16.What marked the beginning of the West End as an entertainment district?

17.Why did medieval London cease to exist on 2 September 1666?

18.Why was the Guildhall able to withstand the flames?

19.When did the first London railway open?

20.Can you say that London is «a city with many faces»? Why?

21.In what parts of London does cockney speech still preserve its idioms and its accent?

22.Why are London taxis registered as «Hackney carriages»?

23.Why is Charles I considered to be «the shortest-ever adult King of England»?

Travelling in London

London is a city full of sights, history and atmosphere. There are plenty of places to go. Wherever you are you'll find a bus and underground nearby. So you can reach any part of London easily and enjoy the ride. There are handy leaflets with maps and information to plan your journeys. If you need further information, 24-hour personal travel information by telephone is provided. The wide choice of public transport includes bus, underground (subway), train (BR) and Docklands Light Railway (DLR). Most of South London relies on British Rail overground services, while the redeveloped Eastern part of the city – known as Docklands – is served by the DLR.

Getting out of the city is not straightforward because there are more than a dozen British Rail terminals – usually grandiose Victorian buildings – which connect the metropolis with the rest of the country, so make sure you know your station for arrival or departure.

The main London airports are Heathrow, Gatwick, London City Airport and Stanstead.

Heathrow is 15 miles west of London. Central London is a 45 minute journey on the tube. Alternatively take a licensed Black Cab1 straight to your hotel or the Airbus. The Airbus and the tube are much cheaper than a taxi. Tube trains run every few minutes from early morning to late evening. It is best for people with light luggage. Airbus is ideal if you have lots of luggage. They can be boarded near all major hotels, rail and coach stations and all airport terminals. Airbuses run every 15 to 30 minutes throughout the day and are fast and comfortable with friendly drivers who offer advice and information. Disabled travellers are welcome.

Gatwick, 30 miles from London, is served by the Gatwick Express train, taking 30 minutes to Victoria2 and costing £8.60 one way. Some commuter trains3 go to and from Clapham Junction4 and London Bridge. A Greenline Coach5 service connects Gatwick with Victoria in Central London, taking about 75 minutes and costing

£8.90.

London City Airport is only 6 miles east of the City. The nearest rail station is Silvertown, which connects with the tube at West Ham.6 Also, shuttle buses7 connect the airport with Canary Wharf DLR and Liverpool Street station in the City.

Stanstead. A rail service connects this airport, 32 miles NE of London with the City's Liverpool Street station, taking about 40 min (£10.80).

There are over 20,000 licensed Black Cabs in London. Every driver has undergone a stringent test of London's geography called The Knowledge. You will find them a wealth of knowledge. Black Cabs can be hailed in the street when their «For Hire» sign is illuminated. Avoid unlicensed mini-cabs, especially those touting outside stations.

1Black Cab – такси

2Victoria – большой лондонский вокзал, главная конечная станция Южного района

3commuter train – пригородный поезд

4Clapham Junction – Клэпэмский узел (один из крупнейших железнодорожных узлов Великобритании в южной части Лондона)

5Greenline Coach – «зеленый автобус» лондонских пригородных линий; окрашен в зеленый цвет.

6West Ham (West Ham United) – Лондонский футбольный клуб

7shuttle bus – автобус, курсирующий туда и обратно

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Exercise. Find words in the text that mean the same or similar to the following:

1.places worth seeing

2.not far

3.to get to

4.journey

5.printed sheet with announcement or short information; a small booklet

6.directly

7.baggage

8.important; big

9.invalid

10.local train

11.a bus which runs there and back

12.severe

The Underground

The famous London Underground (Tube, as most call it) is not only the oldest and the biggest in the world, it is one of the most modern and efficient. It comprises 11 lines covering most of London. Some have more than one branch, so it's better to make sure to take the correct one. Use a London Underground Journey Planner to plan your route. Each line has a name and a different colour. The colour code signs point to where you can find the tube line you need. Make sure you go to the correct platform for the direction you want to travel.

Tubes begin running about 5.30 am and leave London on their last outward journey between 12.30 am and 1 am. Some routes start later and finish earlier, particularly on Sundays. Trains finish earlier, though each line varies and some suburbs are lucky to be served by all-night services.

Avoid the busiest time on the Underground between 0800 and 0930 and 1700 to 1830.

You can buy your ticket from a machine or ticket office at any Underground station. The price of your fare depends on the number of zones you travel through. Don't forget to buy the right ticket before you begin your journey or you may be stopped and have to pay a £10 penalty fare.

You can buy a single ticket for a one-way journey or a return ticket. Or choose one of Travelcards or LT1 Cards.

Many Underground stations have automatic ticket gates. Insert your ticket and take it back as you walk through. If you have a pushchair, wheelchair or heavy luggage, ask a member of the staff to open one of the special wide gates. Once your journey is complete or your ticket has expired, the gate will open but the machine will retain your ticket.

For your safety, do not try to hold back the train door when they are closing and remember to take care of your personal belongings and take them with you when you leave the train.

When you use an escalator, keep to the right of the steps so people can pass you if they are in a hurry. Smoking is not allowed anywhere on the Underground.

If you need help or guidance, friendly, well-trained staff can assist you and you can also talk to them from

«Help Points» at many stations.

1 LT – London Transport

The Buses

The bus is ideal for short hops (a cheap fare for short journeys on most bus routes). The top of a doubledecker has been hailed as one of the best ways to see the city centre. Most London buses are red, some are in different colours, but they will display the sign: «London Transport».

The famous red buses offer extensive services throughout the capital and there is a frequent and reliable privately-run sightseeing service.

With 17,000 bus stops all over London, you are rarely more than a minute walk from one. You can board at two types of bus stops:

Compulsory – Buses will automatically stop, unless they are full. Request – Buses will only stop if you put out your arm in good time.1 When you board a bus, take a seat if one is available or hold on tight.

You pay the bus driver (or conductor) or show a Travelcard. Buses have a similar fare system to the Underground.

When you want to leave the bus ring the bell once, unless a «bus stopping» sign is lit. Buses offer a friendly, personal and safe service; nearly all vehicles have video cameras on board. All buses are No Smoking. Never get on or off an open platform bus except at a bus stop and always wait until the bus has stopped. Be careful when crossing the road as buses sometimes travel in special road lanes against the traffic flow.2

Special «N» numbered Night Buses run through the night – some follow daytime routes, others have their own routes. Fares are slightly higher than on day buses and you cannot use a One Day Travelcard, LT Card or One

4

Day Bus Pass. There are no child fares on Night Buses (or any bus after 2200). All Night Buses pass through Trafalgar Square and serve theatres, cinemas and entertainment areas.

1in good time – заблаговременно

2traffic flow – транспортный поток

Exercise. Complete the sentences using an appropriate word from the box.

privately-run

fare system

entertainment compulsory

vehicles

traffic flow double-decker

1.The top of a ... is one of the best ways to see the city centre.

2.There is a reliable ... sightseeing service.

3.At ... stops buses will automatically stop, unless they are full.

4.Buses have a similar ... ... to the Underground.

5.Nearly all ... have video cameras on board.

6.Buses sometimes travel in special road lanes against the ... ....

7.All Night Buses serve ... areas.

Sightseeing

If you are touring London on a budget make note of the following:

Britain's Number One1 Sightseeing Company is Evan Evans Tours. Since its foundation in 1933, millions of visitors have enjoyed the Evan Evans Experience. It combines the talents of a committed team, 24 hour service, experienced tour planning and the very belt in vehicle availability. The vast majority of Company's fleet are Mercedes. All have reclining seats2 and the very best in audio systems. The Company's guides amuse, entertain and enlighten. History is brought to life by the best in the business. Prices: ££18.00-49.50 (Adults); ££16.00-45.50 (Children: 3-17 years).

London Plus Hop-on Hop-off is the original London sightseeing tour. You'll be shown the sights of London from a traditional double-decker bus (open-top in summer). All London Plus buses have a guide to provide commentary or you may have taped commentary. With a London Plus ticket you can hop on and hop off at more than twenty London Plus bus stops along the tour route for no extra charge. Tickets purchased after 2 pm (14.00) are valid for the following day as well. Normal price adult £10.

The Original London Walks is the oldest walking tour company in London with its more than 30 years in the business. In practice that means an astonishing variety of routes, utter reliability, and — most important of all — superb guides. They include the author who is internationally recognized as the leading authority on Jack the Ripper3; a distinguished ВВС broadcaster and writer; the author of the classic guidebook «London Walks»; a leading London archeologist and several renowned actors and actresses.

To go on a walk, you'll meet your guide and fellow walkers just outside the designated Underground station at the time stated. The walks last about two hours and take place rain or shine. A walk costs £4 (£3 for students and

OAPs4). Children under 15 go free if accompanied by an adult.

You may also be delighted by a guided luncheon cruise on board the «Silver Bonito» which is quite simply the best ship of its type on the River Thames today. Elegant and purpose built5 you can relax in forward facing armchairs while enjoying your lunch served to your seat. Drinks, tea and coffee are available from the well stocked bar.

You'll see London from unique vantage points on the river including the Tower of London, the Houses of Parliament, Tower Bridge and South Bank as history is brought to life with amusing anecdotes and commentary from the Captain, a Thames «Waterman». Price £13.00 (Adults).

1Number One – первоклассный

2reclining seat – сидение с откидной спинкой

3Jack the Ripper – Джек Потрошитель (неизвестный преступник, который совершил ряд убийств в Лондоне в конце 19 в.)

4ОАР – old age pensioner

5purpose built – специально построенный

Exercise: How is the following related to major tour companies?

Evan Evans Tours: 1933; a committed team; company's fleet; a reclining seat; audio system; to amuse, to entertain and to enlighten.

London Plus Hop-on Hop-off: open-top in summer; to provide commentary; taped commentary; more than twenty bus stops; extra charge.

The original London Walks: 30 years; astonishing variety of routes; utter reliability; superb guides; Jack the Ripper; ВВС broadcaster; «London Walks»; renowned actors and actresses; fellow walkers; designated Underground station; rain or shine; OAPs; «Silver Bonito»; unique vantage point; a Thames «Waterman».

5

1Mall – Мэлл (улица в центральной части Лондона ведущая к Трафальгарской площади)

2to say nothing of... – не говоря уже о...

3to ply the seas – бороздить моря

The London Panorama

We begin as London began – with the Thames. Silvery lifeline, main highway, chief profession route, the Thames is, quite simply, London's Grand Canal. Tower Bridge and Westminster Bridge bracket London and to take ship on this stretch of water is to glissade down the centuries. Here kings and queens were borne in painted and gilt. state barges; on the one shore. Wren's St. Paul's Cathedral engraved against the London sky: on the other Shakespeare wrought his magic «not of age, but for all time!» The Thames knew great men and women in death too. These waters bore Elizabeth's funeral and Nelson's and Churchill's. Ashore we take in Whitehall, Westminster Abbey, St. James's Park, Buckingham and St. James's Palaces, the Mail1 and Trafalgar Square.

If you only have time for walking along the Thames, you'll take in London's last remaining galleried coaching inn, its best riverside walkway, its oldest market, the finest art pub in England, the recently discovered remains of Shakespeare's Globe Theatre and its sister playhouse The Rose (to say nothing of2 the thrilling and faithful reproduction of the Globe, now rising Phoenix-like), the church where Harvard University's founder was baptized, the last three-masted schooner to ply the high seas3, and an 18th century pub that brews its own beer – plus lashing of Shakespeare, a lot of Dickens, lots of pubs and London's best skyline panorama.

Answer the questions:

1.Which is the best way to begin sightseeing in London?

2.What is the River Thames for London?

3.Which are the most important bridges on the River Thames?

4.Whose funerals did the River Thames witness?

5.What magnificent sights would you take in moving down this stretch of water on board the ship?

6.What would you see going along the riverside walkway?

7.What building is rising from remote ages Phoenix-like?

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