4. Be ready to talk and discuss the general structure of a ship

ADDITIONAL MATERIALS:

Uss Nimitz’s catapult 1

When the plane is ready to go, the catapult officer opens valves to fill the catapult cylinders with high-pressure steam from the ship’s reactors. This steam provides the necessary force to propel the pistons at high speed, slinging the plane forward to generate the necessary lift for takeoff. Initially, the pistons are locked into place, so the cylinders simply build up pressure. The catapult officer carefully monitors the pressure level so it’s just right for the particular plane and deck conditions. If the pressure is too low, the plane won’t get moving fast enough to take off, and the catapult will throw it into the ocean. If there’s too much pressure, the sudden jerk could break the nose gear right off.

When the cylinders are charged to the appropriate pressure level, the pilot blasts the plane’s engines. The holdback keeps the plane on the shuttle while the engines gen­erate considerable thrust. The catapult officer releases the pistons, the force causes the holdbacks to release, and the steam pressure slams the shuttle and plane forward. At the end of the catapult, the tow bar pops out of the shuttle, releasing the plane. This totally

Launched by the steam catapult.

steam-driven system can rocket a 45,000-pound plane from 0 to 165 miles per hour in two seconds! (a 20,000-kg plane from 0 to 266 kph)

6. Translate the following text into English:

Корабельные самолеты по конструкции подобны сухопутным, но и имеют су­щественные отличия. Особенности их конструкции связаны с размещением, взле­том и посадкой на летной палубе, имеющей относительно небольшие размеры.

Современные корабельные самолеты подразделяются по способу взлета на: катапультные, вертикального взлета и короткого (трамплинного).

Корабельные самолеты катапультного взлета взлетают с помощью паровой ката­пульты, которая обеспечивает разгон самолета до требуемой скорости, а садятся на палубу, использую тормозной гак и аэрофинишёр. Таким образом, корабельный са­молет оснащен новым элементом конструкции - убирающимся тормозным крюком- гаком, который дополнительно предполагает усиление конструкции хвостовой части

фюзеляжа. Само­леты данного типа имеют небольшую взлетную и поса­дочную скорость.

LESSON # 5

Inspecting a used car

Whether you buy from a dealer or private party, always inspect the vehicle thor­oughly before bringing it to a mechanic for a final inspection. You don’t have to be an expert to give a car a good, revealing going-over. You can learn a great deal just by us­ing your eyes, ears, and nose. Dress in old clothes and bring along a friend to help you. Do your inspection in broad daylight on a dry day or in a well-lit garage. The car must be parked on a level surface and shouldn’t have been driven for at least an hour before you take a look.

CHECK OUT THE EXTERIOR

First, walk around the car and see if it’s standing level. If it sags to one side, it may have broken springs or another suspension problem. Bounce each corner of the car up and down. If the shock absorbers are in good shape, the car should rebound just once or twice and not keep bouncing up and down. Then grab the top of each front tire and tug it back and forth. If you feel play in it or hear a clunking sound, the wheel bearings or suspension joints may be shot.

Body condition. Check each body panel and the roof, looking for scratches, dents, and rust. The gaps between the panels and surrounding surfaces should be uniform. Ex­amine the lines of the fenders and doors. Misaligned panels or large gaps can indicate either sloppy assembly at the factory or repair.

The easiest way to find out if the car has been in an accident is to ask the owner. But you should still take a look for yourself. Paint color and finish should be the same everywhere. A repainted body panel might not quite match the original in color or gloss. It’s very hard for a body shop to duplicate the texture and finish of a factory’s baked-on paint. Look for differences in color on the outside edges of panels. A repainted panel may even look more mirrorlike than the original, but the paint may not weather the same or last as long.

Sometimes a repair is obvious. Other times, you’ll have to peer closely, moving your head slowly to catch the light. If you think a dent may have been patched up, use a magnet to see if it sticks to the suspect area. If a dent was filled with plastic body filler, the magnet won’t stick. (This test won’t work if the car has plastic or fiberglass body parts, such as are found on a Saturn or Chevrolet Corvette.)

Look for signs of body repair on the sills around door openings, the hood, and trunk lid. If parts of the car have been repainted, there may be signs of “overspray,” or paint

adhering to the rubber seals around the body openings. Look carefully at the underside of the hood and trunk lid for signs of damage or repair.

Minor cosmetic flaws are no cause for concern, but rust is. Look particularly for blistered paint or rust spots around the wheel wells and rocker panels (the sheet metal beneath the doors) and the bottoms of the doors themselves. Use a flashlight to look inside the wheel wells for rust and corrosion caused by salt.

Open and close each door, the hood, and the trunk. Do they ride freely on their hinges and close properly? Gently lift and let go of each door, particularly the driver’s door. If the door is loose on its hinges, the car has seen hard or long use. Also inspect the rubber seals around all openings to be sure they’re intact. Loose, deteriorated, or missing rubber can create water leaks, drafts, and wind noise.

Lights and lenses. Have your friend stand outside the car and confirm that all lights are working. Try out both low-beam and high-beam headlights, the parking lights, the turn signals, and any ancillary lights, such as fog lights. Make sure all the light lenses are intact and not cracked, fogged with moisture, or missing.

Tires. You can tell a lot from the tires. If the car has less than, say, 30,000 miles on the odometer, it should probably still have its original rubber. If a car with low miles on the odometer has new tires, be suspicious. Turn the front wheels all the way to the right or left, so you can get a good look at them. All four should be the same brand and size (except on a few performance cars, which use different sizes on the front and rear). If there is a mix of the brands or sizes on the car, ask why.

Tread wear should be even across the width of the tread. It should also be the same on the left and right sides of the car. Ask if the tires have been rotated front-to-rear regu­larly. If not, the wear is usually more severe on the drive wheels.

An aggressive driver tends to put heavy wear on the outside shoulder of the tire, at the edge of the sidewall. If the shoulder is badly worn, assume that the car has been driven hard.

Check the tread depth, either with a tread-depth tool (available at auto-parts stores) or with a penny. To be legal, tires must have at least 1/16 inch of tread. If you don’t have a tread gauge, insert a penny into the tread groove, with Lincoln’s head down. If you can see the top of the head, the tire should be replaced.

On each tire, lightly stroke the tread with the flat of your hand. If you feel raised areas, the tire was not aligned properly That symptom could point to a simple malad­justment or a costly suspension repair; have your mechanic check it out. Tires with that sort of wear will tend to make the steering wheel vibrate at highway speeds.

Examine the sidewalls for scuffing, cracks, or bulges, and look on the edge of each rim for dents or cracks. A hard impact with a pothole or curb could have knocked a tire out of alignment or damaged a tire, rim, or suspension part.

Brake discs. Check the rotors on disc brakes. Most cars have disc brakes in front and drum brakes in the rear; some have disc brakes all around. With a flashlight, peer through the front wheel rims. The rotor discs should be smooth, with no deep grooves.

Don’t worry about traces of surface rust on the discs. After your test drive, when you’ve used the brakes, the discs should look clean and smooth.

Glass. Look carefully at the windshield and other windows to make sure there are no cracks. A small bull’s-eye from a stone hit on the windshield may not be cause for alarm, though you should point it out as a bargaining chip. Cracks in the windshield often grow worse over time and can lead to a costly repair.

CHECK OUT THE INTERIOR

Odor. When you first open the car door, sniff the interior. A musty, moldy, or mil­dewy smell could indicate water leaks. Be diligent here because water leaks can be very hard to find and fix. Remove the floor mats, and feel and sniff for wet spots on the carpet beneath. If there’s doubt, find another car.

Pedal rubber. The rubber on the brake, clutch, and gas pedals gives an indication of use. A car with low miles shouldn’t show much wear. If the pedal rubber is worn through in spots, it indicates high miles. If the clutch-pedal rubber is badly worn, it may mean the driver is in the habit of riding the clutch, which puts a strain on it and the gearbox.

Instruments and controls. Start the car and let it idle. Note if it’s hard to start when cold. Note too whether the engine idles smoothly. Then methodically try out every switch, button, and lever. Check all the doors and their locks, and operate the windows. If there’s a sunroof, open and close it. Try the interior lights, overhead dome light, any reading lights, and the lighted vanity mirrors on the sun visors. Honk the horn.

Turn on the heater full blast and see how hot it gets, how quickly. Switch on the air conditioning and make sure it blows cold. If there are seat heaters, turn them on and see how warm they get.

Try the sound system. Check radio reception on AM and FM, and try loading, playing, and ejecting a tape or compact disc if there is a tape or CD player.

Seats. Try out all the seats even though you may not plan on sitting in the rear. The driver’s seat typically has more wear than the passenger’s, but it shouldn’t sag. The upholstery shouldn’t be ripped or badly worn, particularly in a car that’s supposed to have low miles on it. Try all the driver’s-seat adjustments, along with the steering wheel height-and-reach adjustment, to make sure you can have a good driving position.

AIR-CONDITIONING ISSUES

Take its temperature. A healthy air-conditioning system should produce cold air within a few minutes. Turn it on with the temperature set to full cold and the blower at medium speed. Then keep it running when you road-test the vehicle. Be wary if the air coming through the dash vents turns warm and stays that way While the problem could be minor - a faulty switch or excess moisture in the system, for example - a shift from cold air to warm could mean an expensive repair bill down the road.

Know what’s in there. A decal on the underside of the hood should reveal which re­frigerant the factory installed or whether the vehicle was retrofitted with something else.

Unfortunately, decals can’t tell you whether the original system was properly main­tained or how well any retrofits were performed. That’s why the surest way to know which air-conditioning system a vehicle has and what shape it’s in is to have it checked by an air-conditioning specialist. An air-conditioning shop can use an electronic leak detector and trace dyes, if needed, to find any leaks. The shop can also inspect the system to see if it contains more than one refrigerant. Refrigerant mixes pose added problems and expense because purging them requires special equipment. And while both R-12 and R-134a can be recycled, blends must be collected and shipped off-site for reclamation - another expensive procedure to go through. Few shops are equipped to service systems with contaminated refrigerant, which alone makes the vehicle worth less. Mixes are also a telltale sign that the system was leaking and probably wasn’t fixed before the other refrigerant was added. Worse, if the system has been filled with propane or some other flammable gas and it leaks into the passenger compartment, the gas may cause a fire or an explosion.

If the compressor needs replacing, the new one that goes in will probably be R- 134a-compatible anyway, so it makes sense to switch to the new refrigerant. A special­ist can tell you for sure and give you an estimate that you can use as a bargaining chip to lower a used vehicle’s price. Then again, if the cost to repair or convert represents a significant portion of that price - and the owner won’t discount it accordingly - you may want to pass on the vehicle and continue your search.

LOOK IN THE TRUNK

The trunk is another place to use your nose as well as your eyes. Again, sniff and look for signs of water entry. See if the carpeting feels wet or smells musty. Take up the trunk floor and check the spare-tire well for water or rust.

Check the condition of the spare tire. (If the car has alloy wheels, the spare-tire rim is often plain steel.) With many minivans, pickups, and sport-utility vehicles, the spare tire may be suspended beneath the rear of the vehicle. You’ll have to get down on your knees to examine it. Also make sure the jack and all the jack tools are present and ac­counted for.

LOOK UNDER THE HOOD

If the engine has been off for a few minutes, you can do most under-the-hood checks. Look first at the general condition of the engine bay. Dirt and dust are normal, but watch out if you see lots of oil spattered about, a battery covered with corrosion, or wires and hoses hanging loose.

Wiring. Feel the crinkly, plastic-armored covering on electrical wires. If the covering is brittle and cracked, the wires have overheated at some point. Look for neat plastic con­nectors where wires run into other wires, not connections made with black electrical tape.

Hoses and belts. Try to squeeze the various rubber hoses running to the radiator, air conditioner, and other parts. The rubber should be supple, not rock-hard, cracked, or mushy. Feel the fan belt and other V-belts to determine if they are frayed.

Fluids. Check all the fluid levels. Dipsticks usually have a mark indicating the proper level. The engine oil should be dark brown or black, but not too dirty or gritty. If the oil is honey-colored, it was just changed. White spots in the oil cap indicate water is present. Transmission fluid should be pinkish, not brown, and smell like oil, with no “burnt” odor. It shouldn’t leave visible metal particles on your rag - a sign of serious problems. With most cars, you’re supposed to check the automatic-transmission fluid with the engine warmed up and running. On some, the transmission-fluid dipstick has two sets of marks for checking when the engine is either cold or warm. Also check the power-steering and brake-fluid levels. They should be within the safe zone.

Radiator. Don’t remove the radiator cap unless the engine has cooled off complete­ly. Check the coolant by looking into the plastic reservoir near the radiator. The coolant should be greenish, not a deep rust or milky color. Greenish stains on the radiator are a sign of pinhole leaks.

Battery. If the battery has filler caps, wipe off the top of the battery with a rag, then carefully pry off or unscrew the caps to look at the liquid electrolyte level. If the level is low, it may not mean much, or it may mean that the battery has been working too hard. Have a mechanic check it out.

LOOK UNDERNEATH THE CAR

Spread an old blanket on the ground, so you can look under the engine at the pave­ment. Use a flashlight. If you see oil drips, other oily leaks, or green coolant, it’s not a good sign. If you can find the spot where a car was habitually parked, see if that part of the garage floor or driveway is marred with puddles of oil, coolant, or transmission fluid. Check the ground beneath the fuel tank for fuel drips from the fuel-filler tube and gas tank.

Don’t be alarmed if some clear water drips from the car on a hot day. It’s probably just water condensed from the air conditioner.

Examine the constant-velocity-joint boots behind the front wheels. They are round, black rubber bellows at the ends of the axle shafts. If the rubber boots are split and leak­ing grease, assume that the car has or shortly will have bad C-V joints - another item that’s costly to repair.

Feel for any tailpipe residue. If it’s black and greasy, it means the car is burning oil. The tail-pipe smudge should be dry and dark gray. Look at the pipes. Some rust is nor­mal. Heavy rust is sometimes normal but could mean that a new exhaust system might be needed soon.

TAKE A TEST DRIVE

If you’re still interested in the car, ask to take it for a test drive. Plan to spend at least 20 minutes behind the wheel, to allow enough time to check the engine’s cooling system and the car’s heater and air conditioner.

Comfort. Make sure the car fits you. Set the seat in a comfortable driving position and attach the safety belt. Make sure that you’re at least 10 inches away from the steer­

ing wheel and that you can still fully depress all the pedals. Typically, seats fit some bodies better than others, so make sure the seat feels right for you. Make sure that you can reach all the controls without straining, that the controls are easy to use, and that the displays are easy to see.

Steering. With the engine idling before you start your test drive, turn the steering wheel right and left. You should feel almost no play in the wheel before the tires start to turn.

Once under way, the car should respond to the helm quickly and neatly, without lots of steering-wheel motion. At normal speeds, the car should maintain course without constant steering corrections.

If the wheel shakes at highway speed, suspect a problem with wheel balance or the front-end alignment, which is easily fixed, or with the suspension, which may not be. Likewise, if the car constantly drifts to one side, suspect that a tire is underinflated or that there is some suspension problem - something to have a mechanic check.

Engine and transmission. The engine should idle smoothly without surging or sputtering, and accelerate from a standstill without bucking or hesitating. When you ac­celerate up a hill, you shouldn’t hear any pinging or clunking. The car should be able to keep up with highway traffic without endless downshifting.

With an automatic transmission, don’t confuse smoothness with slippage. When you accelerate, there should be no appreciable hesitation between the engine’s accelera­tion and the car’s. If there is, it’s an almost sure sign of transmission wear - and a costly fix down the road.

With a manual transmission, the clutch should fully engage well before you take your foot all the way off the pedal. If there isn’t at least an inch of play at the top of the pedal’s travel, the car may soon need a new clutch.

Brakes. Test the brakes on an empty stretch of road. From a speed of 45 mph, apply the brakes hard. The car should stop straight and quickly, without pulling to one side and without any vibration. The pedal feel should be smooth and linear, and stopping the car shouldn’t take a huge effort. If the car has antilock brakes, you should feel them activate with a rapid pulsing underfoot when you push hard on the brake. (It’s easier to make the antilock braking system activate on a stretch of wet road.)

Try two or three stops; the car should stop straight and easily each time. Then pull into a safe area, stop, and step firmly on the brake pedal for 30 seconds. If the pedal feels spongy or sinks to the floor, there may be a leak in the brake system.

Look, listen, feel. At a steady speed on a smooth road, note any vibrations. You shouldn’t feel shuddering through the steering wheel, nor should the dashboard shake or the image in your mirrors quiver noticeably.

Drive at 30 mph or so on a bumpy road. You want a compliant, well-controlled, quiet ride. If the car bounces and hops a lot on routine bumps and ruts, it may mean the car has suspension problems or the car’s chassis wasn’t designed well in the first place. Listen, too, for rattles and squeaks-they’re annoying to live with and often difficult to track down and fix.

CHAPTER III ELECTRICAL POWER

LESSON # 1

GENERATING ELECTRIC CURRENTS

We saw that a change in the magnetic flux passing through a transformer’s secondary coil causes current to flow in that coil. Since the magnetic flux through the secondary coil changes whenever the current through the primary coil changes, an alternating current in the transformer’s primary coil induces an alternating current in its secondary coil.

But there’s another way to change the magnetic flux passing through a coil of wire: move the magnetic flux. That’s how a generator works. Whenever a magnet moves past a coil of wire or a coil of wire moves past a magnet, the flux through the coil changes and current flows in the coil and its circuit.

M ost generators use rotary motion to pro­duce electricity. The generator has a permanent magnet that spins between two fixed coils of wire. As the magnet spins, its magnetic flux lines sweep through the two coils and drive a current through them. This current experiences a volt­age rise as it passes through the coils and a volt­age drop as it passes through the light bulb, so it transfers power from the generator to the bulb.

The iron core inside each coil extends the magnet’s flux lines so that they are sure to sweep through the coil each time a pole of the magnet passes by. These cores are temporarily magne­tized by the nearby magnet and effectively in­crease its length. Without the iron cores, most of the rotating magnet’s flux lines would bend around before passing through the entire coil and the generator would be less effective at produc­ing electricity.

In the above diagram, you can see two magnets in the motor: The armature (or ro­tor) is an electromagnet, while the field magnet is a permanent magnet (the field magnet could be an electromagnet as well, but in most small motors it isn’t in order to save power). The principle design of the motor is identical to the generator. A generator produces an alternating current in the circuit it powers. This current flows in one direc­tion as the magnet’s north pole approaches a coil and in the opposite direction as the south pole approaches it. To generate the 60 Hz alternating current used in the United States, the generator must turn 60 times each second so that the current completes one full cycle of reversals every l/60th of a second. In Europe, the generator must turn 50 times each second to supply 50 Hz alternating current. The generators throughout the continent-wide power distribution networks all turn together in perfect synchronization. That way, power can be redirected within each network so that any generator can pro­vide the power consumed by any user.

Some devices require direct current electric power. A car is a good example. It generates DC electric power to charge its battery and to run its headlights, ignition system, and other electric components. While this power is actually produced by an AC generator or alternator, the car uses special electronic switches to send current from the alternator one way through its electric system. While the current in the alternator’s coils reverses, the current through the car’s electric system always travels in one direction.

Because large permanent magnets are extremely expensive, most industrial genera­tors actually use iron-core electromagnets instead. These rotating electromagnets drive currents through generator coils just as effectively as permanent magnets would. Al­though these electromagnets consume some electric power, they are much more cost effective than real permanent magnets.

An alternating current (AC) is an electrical current whose magnitude and direc­tion vary cyclically, as opposed to direct current, whose direction remains constant. The

usual waveform of an AC power circuit is a sine wave, as this result in the most efficient transmission of energy. However in certain applications different waveforms are used, such as triangular or square waves.

Used generically, AC refers to the form in which electricity is delivered to busi­nesses and residences. However, audio and radio signals carried on electrical wire are also examples of alternating current. In these applications, an important goal is often the recovery of information encoded (or modulated) onto the AC signal.

Electricity distribution

AC voltage can be stepped up or down by a transformer to a different voltage. High-voltage, direct current electric power transmission systems contrast with the more common alternating-current systems as a means for the bulk transmission of electrical power. However, these tend to be more expensive and less efficient than transform­ers. Use of a higher voltage leads to more efficient transmission of power. The power losses in a conductor are a product of the square of the current and the resistance of the conductor, described by the formula P = I2R. This means that when transmitting a fixed power on a given wire, if the current is doubled, the power loss will be four times greater. Since the power transmitted is equal to the product of the current, the voltage and the cosine of the phase difference ф (P = IVcoscp), the same amount of power can be transmitted with a lower current by increasing the voltage. Therefore it is advantageous when transmitting large amounts of power to distribute the power with extremely high voltages (sometimes as high as hundreds of kilovolts). However, high voltages also have disadvantages, the main ones being the increased danger to anyone who comes into contact with them, the extra insulation required, and generally increased difficulty in their safe handling. In the power plant the voltage is generated on three phase low voltage, with a frequency of either 50 or 60 hertz, and stepped up to a high voltage for distribution and stepped down, with a neutral, to a relatively low level for the consumer, generally around 200 V to 500 V between phases and 100 V to 250 V between each phase and the neutral.

Three-phase electrical generation is very common and is a more efficient use of commercial generators. Electrical energy is generated by rotating a coil inside a mag­netic field, in large generators with a high capital cost. However, it is relatively simple and cost effective to include three separate coils in the generator stator (instead of one). These sets of coils are physically separated and at an angle of 120° to each other. Three current waveforms are produced that are 120° out of phase with each other, but of equal magnitude. Three-phase systems are designed so that they are balanced at the load; if a load is correctly balanced no current will flow in the neutral point. Also, even in the worst-case unbalanced (linear) load, the neutral current will not exceed the highest of the phase currents. For three-phase at low (normal mains) voltages a four-wire system like this is normally used, reducing the cable requirements by one third over using a separate neutral per phase. When stepping down three-phase, a transformer with a Delta primary and a Star secondary is often used so there is no need for a neutral on the supply

side. For smaller customers (just how small varies by country and age of install) only a single phase and the neutral or two phases and the neutral are taken to the property. For larger installs all three phases and the neutral are taken to the main board. From a three-phase main board both single and three-phase circuits may lead off (and in some cases also circuits with two phases (not to be confused with two-phase) and a neutral are led off). Three-wire single phase systems, with a single centre-tapped transformer giving two live conductors, is a common distribution scheme for residential and small commercial buildings in North America. A similar method is used for a different reason on construction sites in the UK. Small power tools and lighting are supposed to be sup­plied by a local center-tapped transformer with a voltage of 55V between each power conductor and the earth. This significantly reduces the risk of electric shock in the event that one of the live conductors becomes exposed through an equipment fault whilst still allowing a reasonable voltage for running the tools.

A third wire is often connected between non-current carrying metal enclosures and earth ground. This conductor provides protection from electrical shock due to accidental contact of circuit conductors with the case of portable appliances and tools.

AC power supply frequencies

The frequency of the electrical system varies by country; most electric power is generated at either 50 or 60 Hz. Some countries have a mixture of 50 Hz and 60 Hz supplies.

A low frequency eases the design of low speed electric motors, particularly for hoist­ing, crushing and rolling applications, and commutator-type traction motors for applica­tions such as railways, but also causes a noticeable flicker in incandescent lighting and objectionable flicker of fluorescent lamps. 16.67 Hz power (1/3 of the mains frequency) is still used in some European rail systems, such as in Sweden and Switzerland.

Textile industry, marine, computer mainframe, aircraft, and spacecraft applications sometimes use 400 Hz, for benefits of reduced weight of apparatus or higher motor speeds.

AC-powered appliances can give off a characteristic hum at the multiples of the frequencies of AC power that they use. Most countries have chosen their television standard to approximate their mains supply frequency. This helps prevent power line hum and magnetic interference from causing visible beat frequencies in the displayed picture. Unless specified by the manufacturer to operate on either 50 or 60 Hz, appli­ances may not operate efficiently or even safely if used on other than the intended sup­ply frequency.

The European Union (including the UK) has now officially harmonized on a sup­ply of 230 V 50 Hz. However they made the tolerance bands very wide at ±10%. Some countries actually specify stricter standards than this for example the UK specifies 230 V +10% -6%. Most supplies to the old standards therefore conform to the new one and do not need to be changed.

To be continued.

WORDLIST:

Alternating current (AC) - переменный ток

primary coil - первичная обмотка

secondary coil - вторичная обмотка

magnetic flux - магнитный поток,

магнитные силовые линии

step up transformer - повышающий трансформатор

step down transformer - понижающий трансформатор

permanent magnet - постоянный магнит

iron core - стальной сердечник

commutator - коллектор, коммутатор

brush, brush gear - щетка, щеточное устройство

armature - якорь

rotor - ротор

stator - статор

sine wave - синусоидальное колебание(волна)

conductor - проводник

resistance - сопротивление

current - ток, сила тока

main board - центральный (сетевой) щит

live conductor - провод под напряжением, фазный

center-tapped transformer - трансформатор с выведенной

средней точкой

power (circuit) conductor - силовой провод

commutator type - коммутационный тяговый двигатель

traction motor