2. Mittens

Mittens were worn for warmth and protection throughout the period. They were made of hide, or of sheepskin with the fur inside. These materials are cut without seam allowances and joined by oversewing.

1. Measuring. Draw an outline round the hand laid flat, then measure round the palm as shown to find the conventional glove size.

b. Basic mitten pattern. Using the outline drawing of your hand, draw a large, simple pattern as shown, checking that it is larger than the palm measurement, above. Back and front outline are identical either side of the broken fold line; the thumb hole is off-centre. This figure shows the left- hand pattern: turn it over to cut the right hand.

The thumb part itself is symmetrical along its fold line. Its curved base (B-B) must fit the curve of the thumb hole exactly, excluding the triangular extension which runs into the thumb seam at A. Always set the thumb in first. First stitch the thumb seam from the tip to A, then set the thumb into its hole, working round A-B-B-A. Ease it in if it is slightly larger than the hole, and stitch the mitten closed from the top of the fold round to the wrist.

c. Split mitten pattern. Adapt the basic pattern (b) as shown, following the shape of the hand. Cut a straight gusset, 1 -2 cm wide, tapered at the ends to finish before the finger tips. Set in the thumb as in b. Stitch the gusset to the back of the mitten, from C to each finger tip. Stitch the mitten closed from the top of the fold round to the wrist, including the gusset.

20 cm

218

Aprons

Aprons were worn to protect the outer clothing from dirt and damage, and their form depended on the task (Fig 4). A blacksmith wore a leather apron with a bib, while a mason or carpenter wore a short, wide cloth apron. A cook might tie a length of linen round his waist to wipe his hands on.

Women's aprons (Fig 5) were often pleated into a waistband.

4. Men's aprons

These were strictly functional.

1. Cook. The apron would be a piece of linen, hemmed for washing and tucked into the belt. A larger piece could be used, wrapped round the body and tied at the back.

2. Smith's apron, made from a small hide with neck and waist strings sewn on. Similar one-piece bibbed aprons were made of fabric, and waist aprons set plain into a band were also worn.

4. Women's aprons

Women also wore protective aprons, but they tended to be more decorative. These are both rectangles of linen, about 75 cm wide and up to 100 cm long, hemmed round the edges.

The waist bands are folded double with all raw edges turned in, and oversewn to enclose the top edge (Methods, Fig 9).

The decorated band, seen in the 14th century, might be worked through the pleats to keep them in place, or it might be a separate piece.