Butterfly head-dress, later 15th century
a. Cap for 'butterfly' head-dress, an English fashion. The name reflects the wired veil arrangement usually worn with it (Gowns, Fig 22). The hair must be drawn tightly back and pinned at the back of the head, to keep the cap as horizontal as possible.
This pattern is made up into a cone section:
the lower edge fits round the back of the head and
the
upper edge
is topped with a
round crown.
The c
length of the upper edge is equivalent to the circumference of the crown (Blocks, p. 39).
Scale up the pattern and try it out in stiff paper before cutting it in buckram. Cover it with silk and make up the cap (Methods, Fig 13). Bind the open edge with velvet ribbon for a better grip (Methods, Fig 9). Secure it with hair grips.
Wire frame. The wire extends forward about 10 cm at the forehead, as well as 15-20 cm behind the cap. To make a frame use 2 mm electrical copper wire, florist's wire or jeweller's brass. Bend it to
shape
and stitch it
to the cap at
several points
with d
couching stitches. Put a small kink in the wire at the front stitching point to prevent the frame slipping.
Wired veil. The veil is 60 cm by 100 cm. Pin or stitch the middle of one long edge of the veil to the front tip of the wire and draw it back sharply, with most of the width hanging between the wires at the back. This head-dress is worn almost horizontally.
CF 
20 cm
215
Accessories
One or two well-chosen accessories will complete your outfit and make it look right. Some can be made at home, but others are best bought from specialist suppliers.
Belts, purses and pouches, Figs 1, 2
A belt (or girdle - the terms are interchangeable) was part of almost every outfit. It was mainly functional, but could also be a feature of a style. It was not always visible - it was often worn round an inner layer of clothing, or the outer garment might be pouched over it. It is worth studying the historic illustrations of a particular
period to see how the belt was worn and what it supported.
Working men normally wore a belt and used it for tucking in gloves or tools (Men's outer working garments, Fig 1) and for hitching up the skirts of the cote. During the 14th century the belt was often worn fashionably at hip level. Noblemen might wear a 'knightly girdle' of metal plaques mounted on leather or canvas. Men's gowns were usually belted at the natural waist (Gowns, Fig 3).
Men often wore a visible pouch or purse at the front or side (Cotehardies, Fig 2), and possibly a knife.