11. Outer garments - working dress

In the 15th century women wore a second, fuller Men wore an outer garment either loose and belted, kirtle over the first. The skirts were usually tucked up or closer-fitting and buttoned. Patterns for these are revealing the kirtle beneath. not included as the cut is based on the gown or

cotehardie.

Overkirtle, 15th century Belted frock and buttoned cote, 15th century

Cloaks

Cloaks were worn throughout the period but are not essential for your outfit.

12. Cloaks

Cloaks were circular in shape with different shoulder

styles and fastenings. ^{Cloak necklines and fastenings}

Children's wear

Children's clothes would normally reflect the status of their family unless supplied by an employer.

13. Children's wear

Cote ^{Boy's gown, 15th century Girls' kirtle and}

V-fronted gown

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Head-wear

Men wore a hood or a hat, or sometimes both. Most women just wore a kerchief, sometimes with a veil or hood over it, but head-dresses for the wealthy became increasingly complex from the mid 14th century.

14. Head-wear- men's hats and caps _a b

A selection from the 14th and 15th centuries.

a. Felt hat

2. Fur hat

3. Knitted cap

4. Straw hat _e

e. Coif

d

14. Head-wear - men's hoods

a. Basic hood, 13th and 14th century

2. Hood worn as a hat, mid 14th to mid 15th century

3. Chaperon, mid 15th century (Pl 19)

14. Head-wear - women's linen head-dresses

a. Wrapped kerchief, 1200 onwards

b. Knotted kerchief, 15th century

c. Kerchief with shaped and pinched wimple, 15th century

14. Head-wear - women's cloth head-dresses and hoods

a. Open hood, mid 14th century onwards ^a b

b. Black head-dress, late 15th century

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14. Head-wear - women's fashionable head-dresses

A selection from the elaborate head-dresses and a b _c

their components worn by women of status.

a. Plaits, 14th and early 15th century

b. Hair nets, mid 13th to mid 15th century

c. Barbette and fillet, 13th and early 14th century

d. Frilled veil, second half of 14th century

e. Templers, early 15th century

6. Separate horns, mid 15th century

7. Padded roll, early to later 15th century

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Accessories

A belt and a pair of shoes are vital for every outfit. Notes on shoes are included under Hose, but making them is not covered in this book. Belts, purses and other items such as aprons and mittens indicate status and will enhance your finished outfit.

19.Accessories

a. Man's belt with purse and knife

b. Woman's drawstring purse

c. Split mitten

d. Woman's apron

e. Basket

_c e

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Wearing your outfit

Get used to putting on your outfit layer by layer. Practise pinning the kerchief and draping the hood, as well as movements like lifting objects and climbing steps. Women need to know just where to hitch up the skirts for free movement, and 'ladies' need to practise walking without hitching them up. Try the following exercise: with arms loose at your sides grab the outer skirt in each hand and lift it forward until the front is clear of your feet. Kick forward as you walk to keep the bulk moving, but remember not to stride - ladies don't have to hurry!

Your clothes only become fully 'yours' by using them. Learning how to move in them and how to keep your head-dress in place will enhance your confidence and enjoyment. For each historic role you will need to assume a different comportment to match the clothes, for example a consciousness of rank which makes you deferential, or superior, in a way that is unknown today.

Care and storage

Re-enactors and frequent users should repair any damage promptly and as neatly as possible. You can renovate old garments, or cut them down for children, as would have been customary.

Wash all body linens regularly. If you are a purist you will use pure soap or ecological detergent, without modern synthetic fragrances. If you can, air-dry linens on a line so they don't need ironing.

Your other clothing should rarely need washing or cleaning if it is well dried and aired.

Brush off dried mud, and clean off grease. Wear an apron for cooking or dirty work.

Store heavy garments laid flat, or folded: if left on a coat hanger they may droop out of shape. If they aren't used regularly put them in a plastic bag, or wrap them in an old sheet or muslin, to keep out moths. Medieval pest controls such as rue, lavender or rosemary smell better than camphor mothballs, but are less effective. You should take clothes out regularly to give them a shake and check for moth grubs.

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