1423, French
Carpenter
(building Noah's
ark) in
a full surcote
or frock, pleated
under the belt, and
a hood with
its liripipe
wound round the
head. He
has hose
and ankle
boots. Note the
hammer tucked through
his purse.
(Bedford Hours,
British Library,
MS
Add 18850, f.15b).
1465, French/Burgundian
Peasant in belted frock or surcote with sleeves rolled up to show buttoned doublet sleeves. His hose are baggy and probably separate. Hood with liripipe wound round the head and working boots. (Burgundian tapestry, Burrell Collection, Glasgow).
169
Overkirtle
2
3a
2. Overkirtle, 15th century
A loose-fitting Overkirtle. The skirts are ground length, tucked up and revealing the kirtle, which is short-sleeved. The Overkirtle has elbow length sleeves and the smock sleeves are rolled up.
Bodice and sleeve for Fig 2
Bodice Trace the personal Block to hip level. Check the waist size by asking a friend to measure the smallest looped tape that will slip over your head and shoulders, as if putting on a dress. —•
20 cm
170
Lower the armhole by 1 -3 cm. Widen the sides by 1-3 cm, and widen CB and CF by 1 cm, reducing the shaping down the CF. Ensure the back and front waist combined equal at least half the looped tape measurement. Rule a vertical construction line through the waist centre on Front and Back.
Enlarge the back and front neckline to a size which will slip on over the head, about 60 cm all round: here the neckline has been lowered by 2 cm at CB and NP, and 3 cm at CF. To plan the skirts see Fig 4.
Sleeve Measure the new armhole. Trace the sleeve Block and enlarge the sleeve head to match, here by a total of 3.5 cm, see Blocks, Fig 25. The sleeve shown is elbow length, 35 cm down the Back seam and 40 cm wide at A-A. Complete the pattern, marking SP, SG and seam allowances.
3b
20 cm
171
4
20 cm
4. Full pattern and layout for Fig 2
The patterns are shown on 150 cm wide cloth folded lengthways. Front and Back hems are each 72 cm, giving a total hem of 288 cm. The method is given in Blocks, Fig 27.
Extend the construction line on the adjusted Front and Back (Fig 3) from the waist to hem level using the Waist to floor measurement, here 115 cm. Here both Back and Front are planned with the hem width centered on the construction line. Extra width could be added at CB for a fuller skirt.
Check the side seam lines are equal and add balance points. The construction lines are on SG. Add seam allowances. Cut out the completed patterns, ready for laying on the cloth.
For small sizes, you can cut both sleeves from the spare fabric on the left. For larger sizes, open out the fabric after cutting the Front, and cut one sleeve from the spare. Cut the other sleeve similarly from the spare of the Back.
172
Cloaks
braies
doublet
cotehardie
cloak
hood
cloak
kirtle
173
surcote
Cloaks