1. C.1440, Flemish, Pl 16

Background figure from the painting, wearing a brown Overkirtle lined with grey, turned up over a red kirtle. Black shoes, bare arms (for working) with smock sleeves rolled up, and white kerchief.

(Detail from St Luke drawing the Virgin by Rogier van der Weyden, Groeninge Museum, Bruges).

Materials

A woollen cloth of light or medium weight is best, in a muted colour. For lining use woollen cloth or linen. White or undyed fabric is suitable. The garment could also be lined or edged with an inexpensive fur such as rabbit.

Women

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168

Loose-fitting Overkirtle

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Men's outer working garments

Various forms of outer garment were worn by working men in the 15th century (Pl 18). They included a persistent form of the surcote; a short form of the gown, possibly known as a frock; and a closer-fitting buttoned coat.

A common feature of these garments was their length, reaching between mid-thigh and knee. This made them practical for wear over a long doublet and separate hose, as depicted for workmen over most of the century.

Use a hard-wearing woollen cloth or cheaper broadcloth in a muted colour. The quality of the garments and their cloth would have varied a good deal, even for those issued as livery; they were not necessarily lined. Use lightweight cloth, linen or canvas if you wish to line your garment. Cloth buttons are suitable for fastening (Methods, Figs 19-21). The buttons were spaced well apart, sometimes in pairs and sometimes just five from neck to waist. To position five

buttons fold the edge into quarters.

Surcote for working wear

Untailored garments probably continued well into the 15th century, especially for poorer workers. To make this see Surcotes, Fig 4, possibly shortening the skirts.

Frock (or tunic)

Many outdoor workers wore a garment which seems rel- ated in cut to the gown, though not more than knee length. It typically had long plain sleeves, a buttoned opening at the neck, and was worn pulled in by a belt. It can be made as a shortened version of Gowns, Fig 4. As it is a simple garment, both Front and Back might be cut in one on the fold.

Coat (or jerkin) Commoner than the frock for indoor workers, this is open down the front and buttoned. The cut is comparable with the cotehardie, though later versions often show a waist seam, sometimes with the skirts pleated on at the waist. To make these see Cotehardies, Fig 4, but plan it with more ease all round the Block and long plain sleeves.

Men