31. Sleeve for Fig 28

This sleeve is adapted from the Block to give a tight fit. It has a wrist opening, fastened by hook and eye, and a separate cuff. It is best to try out the fit in calico before cutting the cloth.

Measure the gown armhole. Trace the sleeve Block. Add any increase needed on the sleeve head at BP on the upper curve. None was required here. Rule a straight upper seam line from BP to wrist and a new SG parallel to it.

Reduce the sleeve width from BP to wrist along the lower seam line, as shown, referring to the measurements in Blocks, Fig 3. Try out the fit on the wearer in calico and adjust if necessary. Draw the final pattern, marking an opening on the seam at A, 10-15 cm from the wrist.

Plan the cuff pattern using the 'slash and flare' method (Blocks, Fig 26) with the wrist edge of the sleeve as a guide. Make the cuff 10-15 cm deep and not too flared. Cut the cuff in the outer fabric, interlining, and lining or facing. Make it up and attach it to the wrist edge, with its side edges either caught together at the balance point B, or left open (p. 52).

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29

29. Bodice and collar for Fig 28

Bodice - Trace the bodice Block to hip level: little alteration is needed. Rule a vertical CF line upwards from the Block waist, but leave the CB unaltered.

Lower the armhole at UP by 1 -2 cm.

Plan a low, curved neckline on Back and Front, here 5 cm below the Block neck at CB and 6 cm from NP to a at the shoulders. The front neckline should meet the CF at right angles, well above bust level to cover the kirtle front.

Rule a vertical construction line centred on the waist line on Front and Back.

Collar - This 3-piece collar is made up separately and sewn to the gown. It is 6 cm deep at CB, 7.5 cm at the shoulder, narrowing to 2.5 cm at CF.

20 cm

Use these measurements to draw the outer edge of the collar, shown by heavy broken lines. Broadly follow the back and front necklines, but dip and round the end at CF. Trace off the pattern and add the SG and balance marks, as shown. Cut the back in one, on a fold, and the front as separate pieces. Make up the collar, with interlining and lining, finishing all the edges. For light materials use edge stitching (Methods, Pl 1). For heavier fabrics and velvet follow Methods, Fig 13. For fur see p. 53.

Tack and hand stitch the finished collar in place round the finished gown neck.

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