Full pattern and layout for Fig 12
The Back and Front, together with a large open sleeve, are shown on cloth 150 cm wide, folded crossways. The full sleeve pattern was obtained by tracing off the pattern of Fig 15 along its fold line. Note the small scale!
Gown length is 170 cm, and side seam length is 145 cm. Hem width is 130 cm, giving a total hem of 520 cm.
To prepare your working pattern follow instructions in Planning above and Blocks, p. 42.
148
15
20 cm
15.Open sleeve for Figs 12 & 8 left
To plan the construction lines and sleeve head see instructions for the bag sleeve, Fig 11.
Plan the shape of the underarm seam, keeping outside u. If extra length is needed over the hand, extend AL.
The broken outline is for the dagged sleeve in Fig
8. For dagging see Methods, Fig 24.
Cut each sleeve in one piece on a fold. When setting into the gown, match the underarm seam to the side seam of the body: the fold line will normally fall forward of the shoulder seam. As the sleeve lining will be visible, you could use a finer fabric than for the body lining, such as silk.
149
Pleated gowns
Men's gowns
Pleated gowns, middle 15th century
This style could be short, calf length (Pls 12, 13) or full length, depending on the age and status of the wearer. The shape has been achieved by placing the side seam lines of the flared bodice pattern on the Straight grain, and the CF and CB on the bias. Tubular pleats, formed by the wide flaring, follow the direction of the slash lines on the pattern, either diagonally or vertically. They are stitched in place inside at the waist, to a stay band (Pl 14).
The full length front opening is often hidden by the pleats and fastened by hooks and eyes. The neckline is plain or edged with fur, leaving the doublet collar visible, though the gown might still be made with a standing collar (Fig 9). Sleeves are straight or tapered, sometimes slashed (Fig 16) with pleats at the shoulder which are supported by the padded sleeves of the doublet. This style was often lined or edged with fur (Methods, p. 53).
Making this style of gown requires considerable experience and care.
150
Bodices for Fig 18
a. Enlarged bodice with four slanted slashes from the shoulder, for the calf- length style.
b. Enlarged bodice with five vertical slashes, for the short style.
Bodice - Trace the bodice Block to waist only. Enlarge it as described in Fig 5. Plan 3 or more slash lines, either slanted or vertical, as shown. On the finished gown the pleats will form along these lines.
Collar - Leave the neckline plain as shown, or use a collar from a previous pattern.
20 cm
151
Plate 12 Mid 15th century pleated gown
Gown similar to Fig 18, in good quality woollen cloth with fur edging, showing well-defined pleating. He is wearing a chaperon (Men's Hoods, Fig 6); the white at the neck is a breast kerchief. The slashed sleeves show off both doublet and shirt.
152
Plate 13 Back view of pleated gown
The back pleating is the same as the front; the fur edging outlines the side openings. The back neckline is cut in a V, corresponding to the doublet collar. The chaperon was often carried over the shoulder in this manner, the weight of the liripipe keeping it in place.
153
Fold
20
20 cm