Full pattern and layout for Fig 8
The Back and Front, for the shorter gown, are shown on cloth CF
CB
140 cm wide folded lengthways. Although the Back is shown
on the fold it should be cut as two panels.
Gown length is 75 cm and side seam length is 50 cm. Hem width is 65 cm giving a total hem of 260 cm, generous for a short gown. A knee length gown might be 110 cm long, with
side seam about 85 cm. This would have a gentler flare with the same hem width.
To
prepare your working
pattern
see
Planning
above.
GOWN
BACK
GOWN FRONT
20cm
11 AL
Bag sleeve, late 14th to mid 15th century
A wide, loose shape with the seam at the underarm, not based on the sleeve Block.
On the right of the paper, rule a vertical line equal to Arm length (AL) and parallel with SG. This will be the fold line of the finished sleeve. Measure the gown armhole. From (AL) measure down 10-12 cm and square out to the left. Along this line measure off and
mark half Top Arm plus 5 cm, to u. The UP must lie beyond this point.
Using a tape measure on edge for a guide, sketch the sleeve head to equal half the gown armhole. Start by squaring out from the shoulder, then curve gently down to UP, outside u. If
UP lies more than 5 cm outside u, lower UP slightly to bring it nearer.
Plan the shape of the underarm seam, keeping outside u. The outline shows the fashionable deep bag with a tight buttoned wrist; check against
Wrist size. The balance mark shows the short wrist opening along the seam.
Cut each sleeve in one piece on the fold. When setting into the gown, match the underarm seam to the side seam of the body: the fold line will normally fall forward of the shoulder seam.
145
20 cm
Fashionable
gown
Fashionable gown, end 14th/early 15th century
This was the last common style before men's and women's gowns diverged into distinct garments.
The high belt identifies this as a woman's gown. Men wore it with the belt at waist level.
The body is full and the folds round the waist need careful arrangement to achieve the correct look. The collar is very high and the short front opening is fastened by concealed hooks and eyes. This style of gown is later depicted on women with the collar falling onto the shoulders or lying flat (Fig 13b).
The wide and extended open sleeves can be worn covering the hands, or folded back as a cuff as shown, revealing the circular cuff of the kirtle sleeve (Blocks Fig 26c). This style of gown was also worn with large bag sleeves (Fig 11).
Bodice
and collars
for
Fig
12 •
Bodice -
Trace
the bodice
Block to
waist
only.
For
a woman
enlarge
the Block
as
follows.
Draw
straight
CF
and CB lines
starting
0.5-1
cm
outside
the Block neckline. The CB line should be vertical but the CF may slant out if it would otherwise be more than 2 cm inside the Block waist.
Draw straight side seam lines starting 1.5-2 cm outside and 1 cm down from UP. Redraw the armholes to match. Start the new back neckline at a, 2-5 cm below the Block neck, and run it straight to the shoulder at b, 0.5-1 cm down from the neck. Lower the new front neckline by the same amount. For a man enlarge the Back and Front as in Fig 5.
Collars
For the very high collar, follow Fig 9 and extend it upwards to form a funnel shape: try it out in spare fabric to check the shape. The top edge may need a wire sewn into it, to hold its form.
For this flat collar plan a round back neck, instead of the V. Lay the Back and Front bodice so the shoulder seams touch at the neck and overlap 2-3 cm at SP. This produces a collar which rolls at the neck: for a completely flat one omit the overlap.
Plan the round collar shape 10-15 cm deep, and trace it off as a single pattern piece. Cut it as a 2- piece collar with a seam at CB. It may be faced with the gown fabric or a contrasting one (see Methods, Fig 14).
A matching linen collar can sometimes be seen lying over it. Use the gown collar pattern to cut one. Attach it to a linen neck band, or to a smock with a high neckline (Linens, Fig 5c).
146
13a
20
cm
147
14
Fold
150 cm
20
cm
