Peaked sleeves for surcotes, first half of 14th century
Fairly loose sleeve with gusset and slight peak, shown by solid lines on the pattern.
b. Sleeve with shaped sleeve head and extended peak, shown by heavy broken lines. See also Cotes Fig 8.
c. Fitted sleeve (back view) with long peak (tippet). See also Cotes, Fig 9.
When planning a fitted sleeve c, make sure the peak or tippet is at the underarm. The visible parts of sleeve ends were probably lined.
Fine broken lines follow the top of the sleeve, leading to SP.
6a
b 
c 
c
20 cm
121
Sleeveless surcotes
7a
Simple sleeveless surcote, 13th to mid 14th century, Pl 10
Style worn by men and women, here shown full length for a woman. Men might also wear a shorter form. The simple cut is suitable for thicker woollen cloths. For a garment in finer cloth use the example in Fig 8.
b
b. Pattern and cutting layout for a, shown on a single layer of cloth 140 cm wide, 270 cm long. This voluminous style should be cut generously. Here the Back and Front panels are each 70 cm wide.
Plan the Back and Front either as separate panels, to be joined at the shoulder as here, or in one piece as in Fig 4b. The neck is wide and shallow and the sides slant out to form a deep arm opening.
Plan two pairs of side gores to reach from B to the hem. Their narrow top ends will form the base of the arm openings. Set on the gores with straight edge to straight edge.
20 cm
122
Plate 10 Early 14th century surcote
A simple sleeveless surcote (Fig 7) in medium weight, plain weave wool. It is unlined and the neck and arm openings are finished with facings of silk. The cote from Plate 6 is worn underneath, and its belt can be used to hitch up the cote skirts, and to hang a purse safely.
123
8A 8. Sleeveless surcotes, 13th to mid 14th century
A
more elaborate cut than
Fig. 7,
and suitable
for different
weights of
cloth. It is unsuitable
for fabrics
with a nap, wrong
side or one-way pattern
since
the panels
are cut and
reversed.
a. Man's calf-length surcote, without gores but with slits for riding
Woman's surcote, with added gores
Pattern and layout
This shows the woman's surcote, and the fine lines indicate the shoulder and armhole shaping. Use the same layout for a man, but with the appropriate dimensions and without the gores.
The examples, for a man (Chest 100 cm) and woman (Bust 90 cm), are only for guidance. Actual dimensions will depend on how loose a fit you want, as well as on body size. Start with a scale diagram before making a full-size pattern, or try out the pattern in calico.
Plan the Back and Front as two rectangles, each equalling Garment length by Garment width (Garment width is from two-thirds to three-quarters Chest or Bust measurement). Divide each rectangle diagonally. The diagonal lines will form the CF and CB seam lines, after the four panels are joined bias to bias and straight edge to straight edge.
Ensure that the narrow ends of panels, which form the shoulders, are at least a quarter Bust/Chest size, to give enough width round the torso. If the shoulders are very wide they can be trimmed and shaped after cutting. Secure bias edges on a stay band.
Man's surcote - Garment length 120 cm, Garment width 75 cm (three quarters Chest size). The shoulder ends are 26 cm giving a wide, square shoulder. The straight side seams are left open 30- 35 cm down from the shoulders, to form armholes; the seams at CF and CB are left open 40 cm up from the hem.
Woman's surcote - Garment length 160 cm, Garment width 60 cm (two thirds Bust size). The shoulder ends are only 21 cm: extra width is provided by the gores. The side gores reach to the underarm, adding both armhole shaping and flare to the hem.
20 cm
124
Women's open surcotes
9
10. Bodice for Fig 9 10
The
solid
line is for Fig
9
left
and
the
broken
line
for
Fig
9
right.
Trace the personal Block and plan the shape of the surcote neck, shoulder and armhole. Ensure that Back and Front match up and the
neckline matches that of the cote or kirtle worn underneath; see Kirtles, Fig 3. As the garment will be flared, the final width along CB and CF will be greater than on the Block. Use the prepared bodice to plan the complete pattern on paper as
shown in Fig 11 . If necessary the side or armhole openings can be cut deeper at fitting.