Modelling separate hose
This method applies to all styles, but the top edge and foot style correspond to Fig 4a.
Fabric folded to find the true bias before cutting. The corner x will lie at the top of the leg.
b. Modelling the leg Position the toile with the centre line running down the front of the model's leg, pinning it to the clothing at the top of the leg for support during fitting.
Draw the edges back round the knee and lower thigh until they fit fairly closely, but not tightly, and pin the back seam from the knee upwards. Next draw the edges back round the calf and pin them to fit behind the knee, over the calf muscle and down to the ankle, always keeping the line on the toile straight down the front of the leg. The toile should fit closely enough to stay in place by itself, but don't pull it tight round the ankle or it will not come off over the heel.
The foot - As soon as the toile starts to drag over the top of the foot, fit the chosen foot style. This figure and Fig 6 show the method for making an upper (or vamp) and sole in one.
Cut the toile to form a short pointed flap on top and bring two extensions under the heel, continuing the back leg seam.
Lay another piece of fabric over the foot, pinning it first to the flap, then down the sides of the heel extensions. Trim away the surplus. Bring both sides under the model's sole, pinning them together from heel extensions to toes. You won't get a close fit with this style, and the pattern tends to form a 'peak' at the toes, but it is simpler than other enclosed feet, and useful on thicker cloth.
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Checking the fit - Check up the back of the leg and mark the shape of the top edge. Men's early hose (Fig 4a) reach halfway up the thigh at the back and rise to a point, x, at the Centre line on the working pattern, Fig 6. Men's later hose (Fig 4c) reach to the top of the leg all round. Women's hose (Fig 4b) reach about 10 cm above the kneecap.
Ease the completed toile off the leg. If it won't slip over the heel, move the pin out slightly. Repeat for the other leg.
Pattern for Fig 4a
X
Remove
the
fitted toiles,
mark
the
fitting
lines
onto
both sides of each and remove the pins. Rule a Centre line onto paper and trace the outlines of both toiles (Blocks: From toile to Block), each centered on this line. Fold the paper along this Centre line, and trace a final back seam line from
the four toile fitting lines. Your final pattern should be symmetrical along the Centre line for the length of the leg down to the ankle.
To
make
up
first sew
the
foot
section
to
the
leg,
matching
the
letters, then
sew the leg
and
underfoot
seams
in
one.
20 cm
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