4. Pattern layout for Fig 3

The cote shown is planned on 2.4 m of cloth, 140 cm wide, using almost all the cloth.

Start by sketching a plan of the pattern _D

parts, with the largest and longest first. The 8 gores are quite wide, and the sleeves are extra long. The gores are planned to give both left and right slants, suitable for a non-reversible cloth. One pair of gores has been planned without a seam, to be inserted in the CB slash. Join the straight edges of the side gores to the

body. ^A

B

BACK

A

SLEEVE

D

A

A

FRONT

CENTRE GORES

D ^{c D}

SIDE GORES

CF

20 cm

79

_{Woman's finer cote} 5. Woman's finer cote, mid 13th to early 14th century

A full length cote in fine cloth, to fit a small woman. The front slit is secured with a brooch. The sleeves are tight-fitting on the forearm, achieved by stitching the lower sleeve closed on the wearer, and pouched above. Alternatively, this style could have shoulder shaping and a close-fitting sleeve (Fig 9). The cote has extra length to drape over the belt, and to hide the feet.

₆ 150 cm

A

SLEEVES

SLEEVES

A

^D _B ^D SIDE

GORES

BACK

^A A

6. Layout for Fig 5

The cote is planned on 3.3 m of cloth, 150 cm wide. This is for approximately modern size 12. Larger sizes may require more than twice the garment length. Start by sketching a plan of the pattern parts, with the largest and longest first.

The sleeves are planned fairly wide at the shoulder, tapering to a narrow wrist, and will need fitting on the arms later. The four side gores are planned wider than the two centre gores. Each centre gore can be cut in one piece. The spare cloth could provide an extra gore on each side of the cote, with the straight edges sewn to the Front.

Join the straight edges of all side gores to the

FRONT

D ^{c D}

CENTRE GORES

body. _{20 cm}

80

Plate 6 Early 14th century cote

This is similar to Cotes, Fig. 5, in a medium weight woollen twill. The sleeves are stitched closed on the forearms, so the extra sleeve length forms pouching at the elbows. The long skirts may be hitched over the belt for free movement. She wears a kerchief (Women's linen head-dresses, Fig 2b) and a smock whose sleeves are just visible.

81

Neck styles

7a

b

7. Neck styles

The neck was often hidden by outer clothing or head-wear.

Ensure the opening is wide enough to pull over the head easily. Centre the neck opening on the shoulder fold. Finish off the edge with a hem, binding, or fancy stitching (Methods, Figs 2, 9, 22).

1. Straight slash pulled forwards with a brooch, common in the 13th century.

b. Shallow boat shape with the same back and front shaping.

c. Round neck opening, common in the 14th century.

d. Round back and squared front with slit. Could be fastened with a latchet or button, instead of a brooch.

20 cm

82

Shoulder and armhole fit

8a