Interlining
a. pad-stitching
b. wide herringbone stitching.
and on edges trim the interlining to the fitting line before finishing.
Interlining flat pieces, Fig 13
Parts of dress such as cuffs, collars, some head- wear and accessories are often interlined to stiffen them and also lined. Depending on its purpose, the interlining can be anything from linen canvas to heavy buckram: if it is too heavy to tack through easily, hold the covering materials in place with clothes pegs or spring clips. If the outer material is to be decorated with embroidery or braiding, work this before you make up the shape, if necessary through the interlining.
13. Interlining, lining and joining flat pieces
Cut three layers: the outer material, with seam allowances; the stiff interlining of buckram or canvas, without seam allowances or very slightly undersized; and a lightweight lining, again with seam allowances.
a. Interlining a (curved) shape. Tack the interlining to the outer material as shown. Turn the seam allowances over the interlining, snipping or gathering the edges as needed. Tack again through the seam allowances to secure them, then pin the lining in place.
b. Lining a (round) shape, already interlined. Smooth out the lining so that all three layers lie flat on the same grain. Start by pinning the halves and quarters along the straight grain, then place further pins between them. Hem the lining onto the seam allowances of the outer fabric, just inside the folded edge.
c. Joining completed parts. If they are too stiff to pin, use bulldog clips or clothes pegs to hold the parts in position. Use slip stitch to draw them together as shown.
For large pattern pieces the interlining should be permanently attached by regular rows of stitches so the two layers of material will work as one. Use tiny stitches, which will not show on the right side.
13a
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Lining
Lining, Fig 12, Pl 1
The lining is normally cut to the same shape as the outer layer of the garment. If you don't use a complete pattern for the garment cut the outer material and use this as a pattern for the lining.
Make up the lining separately. Put it inside the garment with the wrong sides together, smoothing the layers and pinning them along the seams (Fig 12, Pl 1). Turn in the seam allowances round the edges, tack the two layers together and stitch them from the right side. This method will avoid the bag-like effect, especially for large hems, that can be produced by machining in the lining from the wrong side.
For doublets with eyelets round the lower edge, cut extra seam allowances on the outer material and fold this to the inside for 2-3 cm. Make the lining correspondingly shorter (Fig 12).
For long garments with wide hems it is best to pin or tack the lining in as described, leaving them on a hanger or dress-stand overnight to let the skirts drop. Stitch the lining into the neck and armholes, and sleeves; lay the garment flat and smooth the two layers together, matching the seams and pinning if necessary for their whole length. Trim both layers level, leaving 3-5 cm seam allowance, and turn in the two edges before stitching them together. If you prefer, fold the lining slightly shorter than the outer fabric and hem it down. Despite the length it is still worth finishing the hem by hand: if the lining eventually starts to sag and show round the edge it is easier to unpick.
Lining close-fitting sleeves
An alternative lining method for close-fitting set-in sleeves, as on a doublet (Doublets, Fig 9), is to make up each sleeve with its lining, finish off the wrist edge and the shoulder puff (if included), and set the completed sleeves into the armholes.
Make up the lining of the body and pin it into the outer layer; turn in the seam allowances round the armholes, and hem the lining into place. This is a good alternative with any set-in sleeve.
Facings
Facings are used to neaten edges on the inside of unlined garments. The medieval tailor used narrow facing strips, cut on the straight grain, since shaped ones were unknown. Being narrow they could be eased round curved edges without much difficulty.
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Lining
The inside of a doublet with the lining pinned in place. Pin, tack, and stitch the lining to the garment round the collar, waist seam and armholes before hemming or top-stitching the edges. Shorten the lining at the lower edge so that the eyelets (to attach hose) can be worked through the unlined folded edge.
Use narrow strips of linen or plain silk, perhaps
3 cm wide (with narrow seam allowances), but allow enough width for any buttonholes. Join the strip to the garment edge at the fitting line on the right side of the fabric, turn it to the inside and hem down the folded edge. Fig 21 shows a faced edge with buttonholes.
