5. Triple-run seams

Three rows of running stitch (or backstitch for the join) are used to make a flat seam. It is commonly used for the main leg seams of hose.

45

5. Two-stage seams

These give a flat, fully-enclosed finish for linens and lightweight wools. They are worked in two stages.

6a

1. Run-and-fell seam, worked on the wrong side of the garment. Work machine stitching or running stitch along the fitting line. Trim one seam allowance as shown, fold the other one over it and hem it down.

2. & c. Seam-and-fell seam, worked on the right and the wrong side. This classic linen seam is slower to work, but stronger than run-and-fell.

For b, fold the seam allowances as shown and oversew the folded edges on the right side. For c, open out the fabric and flatten the oversewing. Turn over the fabric and hem down the other folded seam allowance on the wrong side.

^b c

Making up, Figs 7-15

Details about making up will be found in the text and captions for many individual garments, in particular for those earlier ones planned without a Block.

For fitted garments made from a personal Block, you will normally follow this assembly sequence:

• Identify the cut pieces, marking them on the wrong side with chalk

• Attach any interlining to the parts

• Make up the body by sewing the shoulder, side, centre front and back seams (leaving an opening for putting the garment on where necessary)

• Make up and attach the collar (if any)

• Make up and set in the sleeves

• Finish with lining, hem and fastenings

Waist seams - The hip sections of doublets are sewn onto the body sections before the body is made up, whereas the skirts of kirtles with waist seams are made up and sewn to the completed body.

Setting in sleeves - Figs 7 & 8 show the setting in of simple sleeves with the seam at the underarm.

Most set in sleeves in this book are made from the sleeve Block and have the seam at the back. First pin the seam to the Back Point on the armhole, and to any other balance point (Shoulder Point). Starting from the Back Point pin the lower armhole curves, then up over the shoulder, easing in the sleeve. Remember to match fitting lines, not edges. Adjust if necessary before tacking and stitching.

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Setting in simple sleeves

7. Sleeves with gussets - making up and setting in by hand

All stitching is shown from the inside.

1. Sew one edge, A, of the gusset to one long edge of the sleeve (at the shoulder end for a shaped sleeve). Use one of the two-stage seams above, folding the seam allowances towards the sleeve. End the stitching slightly before the edge of the gusset and snip into the sleeve seam allowance as shown.

7a

b. Pin and stitch the sleeve seam, catching in the gusset edge B. Fold the seam allowance towards the gusset. Try not to pucker the join with seam A.

c. The finished sleeve with gusset.

d. Set the finished sleeve into the armhole with the two-stage seam, folding the seam allowances towards the body of the garment and making a neat corner at the bottom of the gusset.

d