Piecing patterns
These examples show the proper use of piecing. The Straight Grain of the piecing must be the same as in the main pattern and seam allowances must be added to both edges.
For the hose pattern only one of the three piecings should be used at a time.
'Wheel piece' for skirts on narrow cloth.
Left Cut the 'missing' triangle as shown, and reverse it to complete the skirt.
Right 'Wheel piece' in position, shown on the wrong side.
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Waist
To plan a cutting layout always start with the biggest or most awkward pieces. For the medieval tailor the fabric was by far the most expensive part of the exercise, so material was saved by 'piecing' - adding a small bit to the edge of a pattern piece to allow it to be cut economically. Careful piecing can save a surprising amount of material.
Piecing should be discreet as well as careful. Remember that both edges will need a small seam allowance, and that the piece added must be on the same grain. Sew on the piece before starting to make up the garment.
HOSE
WHEEL
PIECE
SP
Foot
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Methods
The working methods you choose will depend on the degree of authenticity you want in your clothing. The basic tools - scissors, needles and thread, pins - are unchanged since the Middle Ages but the modern sewer has many new aids, from iron-on interfacing to overlockers (sergers). Some of these are useful time-savers, but other tasks can still only be done by hand. This chapter concentrates on hand methods which are not covered in detail in modern sewing manuals.
Hand or machine stitching?
Hand stitching and garment construction have evolved over thousands of years, with the sewing sometimes worked from the right side. The sewing machine has altered the way garments are put together, with more of the work being done from the wrong side.
Sewing
stitches
1
Oversewing (top-sewing, seaming)
For joining selvedges or folded edges on all kinds of material. If worked neatly and near the edge it will open out flat without the need for pressing.
For each stitch, push the needle through only one or two threads away from the edge. Keep the stitches close together. When the seam is complete, flatten the stitches with your thumb or index finger nail.
Oversewing should not be confused with overcasting, which is worked wide and loose over a raw edge to prevent it fraying.
You should consider how much hand sewing you will use as it will affect the construction of your garment. For instance, a hand-sewn shirt (Fig
7) would be made with two-stage seams and the sleeves set in after the side seams are sewn, with felled hems (Fig 2) round the neck, sleeve ends and lower edge. A machine-sewn shirt (Fig 8) would be more efficiently made with overlocked seams, the sleeves sewn on flat, and the side seams and sleeve seams sewn in one, with the folded edges of the neck, sleeve ends and lower edge held down by a row of straight machine stitching.
2b 