Finished sleeve draft
Trace the draft (Fig 20), turn it over along the Front line, then trace the Wrist, the Seam line and the lower sleeve head curve to see the full sleeve pattern. Check that the sleeve head forms a continuous curve. Draw a slightly curved wrist shape to eliminate the angle on the Front line. The shaping has been exaggerated a little here. Mark both the Front line and Basic line on the finished Block for reference. The Straight Grain normally falls
on the Basic line. Mark the wrist opening 10 cm up each seam line.
On the sleeve head, measure the distance from SP to BP. Transfer this length less 0.5 cm down the back armhole of the bodice Block, starting from the shoulder (SP). Label the lower point BP. This provides the basic reference point for setting in sleeves.
36
22 SP
20 cm
Sleeve for larger armhole
This method of adapting the sleeve Block from Fig 20 applies for both men and women. Here it is used for the larger woman's Block (Fig 19) and is based on the following measurements: Long arm length 60 cm; Sleeve head 58 cm; Top arm 37 cm; Wrist 16 cm. It should always be used where the sleeve head is over 60 cm.
The broken lines show the extra sleeve width applied to the underarm curve, extending BP outside its original position. Use the method of Fig 20, but limit the length of the upper curve to 30 cm, and put the additional length into the lower curve.
This extends the lower curve beyond the construction line, requiring a new back seam line. Trace off the extended draft to obtain the complete sleeve Block.
Trying out the sleeve with the bodice Block Trace off the sleeve pattern and cut out a pair of sleeves in calico or sheeting. Mark the Shoulder Point on the sleeve heads. Seam allowances should be added to the pattern, or drawn onto the fabric before cutting. Stitch the back seams, leaving a 10 cm wrist opening, and set the sleeves into your
trial bodice: match the Shoulder Point of the sleeve to the shoulder seam of the bodice, and the sleeve seam to the Back Point, easing the fullness of the sleeve head into the armhole.
With the bodice fastened round the model the sleeves should allow free arm movement: try lifting a basket, or the movement of drawing a longbow! If the bodice is straining across the back it may need more width. The high fit under the
arms will feel unfamiliar at first. If it is cutting into you it is too high: lower the armhole on the Back and Front and try again.
Make a clean copy of the final pattern on paper, with a list of measurements beside it for reference. This pattern is the sleeve Block. It is used as a basis for different sleeves.
37
23
20 cm
Adapting the sleeve Block for a closer fit To make a closer-fitting sleeve, trace the sleeve Block so that the Straight Grain runs parallel with the upper Back seam and draw a new lower Back seam as shown. The more shaped seam line can
be based on the tight sleeve measurements (Fig 3) or fitted on the wearer. At least 2 cm ease is needed round the upper arm, but the wrist can be very close-fitting.
Cutting the sleeve
When cutting a sleeve the Basic line will normally lie along the Straight Grain of the fabric, indicated by arrows in Fig 21, but in some cases the Straight Grain can lie parallel to the Back Seam (Fig 23): this puts the under part of the sleeve somewhat on the bias, which can improve the fit.
Blocks for children, Fig 24
Children's garments are normally less fitted than those for adults, and they can be based on a simple block which allows for growth.
Following the method described above, make a loose-fitting block without waist darts or Centre Front and Centre Back shaping. Make the sleeve wide enough to slip over the hand without wrist fastenings.
38
24a
NP NP
24b
CF
