Young man's Block
The final version of the Block used for male garments throughout the book. Chest 105 cm; waist 87 cm; seat 102 cm; modern size about 42. The following abbreviations are used throughout.
CB = Centre Back CF = Centre Front UP = Underarm Point
NP = Neck Point, at the top of the shoulder seam.
SP = Shoulder Point, at the outer end of the shoulder seam and the top of the sleeve head.
BP = Back Point, where the sleeve seam joins the armhole, fixed from finished sleeve Block.
Arrows indicate the Straight Grain.
30
17 NP
20 cm
Mature man's Block - an example
Chest 108 cm; waist 94 cm; seat 102 cm; modern size about 44.
Although the measurements are not very different from Fig 16, the slightly corpulent figure produces quite a different shape where the waist dips under the belly.
31
18 NP
20 cm
Young woman's Block
The final version of the Block used for female garments throughout the book. Bust 94 cm; waist 72 cm; hips 97 cm; modern size about 14.
The following abbreviations are used throughout. CB = Centre Back
CF = Centre Front UP = Underarm Point
NP = Neck Point, at the top of the shoulder seam.
SP = Shoulder Point, at the outer end of the shoulder seam and the top of the sleeve head.
BP - Back Point, where the sleeve seam joins the armhole, fixed from finished sleeve Block.
Arrows indicate the Straight Grain.
As described in the text, some of the hip shaping for the Back has been moved from the side seam to the Centre Back: the vertical line marks the original Centre Back. Unlike the male Block there is no seam or dart at the waist. 8 cm ease has been added to the total waist, and 4 cm to the bust.
Waist level is marked on the Block for reference.
32
19 NP
CF
Hip level
20 cm
Larger woman's Block - an example
Bust 113 cm; waist 97 cm; hips 127 cm; modern size about 22.
As the model is larger, with a fuller bottom, the centre back dart is continuous from the neck to below the waist (note the position of the CB line).
Also, some extra width has been transferred from the side seam to the Centre Back. There is slightly more ease all round than on the previous Block.
33
The sleeve Block, Figs 20, 21
The medieval set-in sleeve was quite different from the modern one: the seam was normally at the back of the arm, and the sleeve fitted high under the arm to match the high armhole.
Drafting the sleeve on paper is more reliable than trying to model it on the figure. It is initially drawn (Fig 20) as if the sleeve is made up, with a fold down the Front line and the seam down the back. It is then 'opened up' by tracing it off down the Front line to give the complete pattern (Fig 21). It is next tried out in calico together with the bodice Block for any final adjustment.
20a
Shoulder
line SP
20 cm
a. Distance x-y is about 5 cm. In this case, measure down from the Shoulder line, using the distances in Table 1, to mark FP, BP and UP. Rule a guide line from UP to BP.