The Medieval Tailor's Assistant
SARAH THURSFIELD
Making common garments 1200 -1500
Tailor, 1320-1330, English
He is fashionably dressed in a loose surcote with peaked sleeves and fitchets (side slits) which give access to the belt and purse beneath. His fitted cote sleeves emerge at the wrists. He wears well-fitted hose and plain shoes; a loose hood with a long point is thrown back round his shoulders. He appears to be cutting out and shaping a cote, using a large pair of shears (probably exaggerated), and appropriating a remnant at the same time.
Hours of the Blessed Virgin Mary British Library MS Harley 6563, f. 65
The Medieval Tailor's Assistant
making common garments 1200 -1500
SARAH THURSFIELD
Scans/Source: Kakaj
Electronic edit/OCR: Sauron
RUTH BEAN
Carlton, Bedford
First published 2001 in the United Kingdom by
Ruth Bean Publishers
Victoria Farmhouse, Carlton, Bedford mk43 7lp
First published 2001 in the USA by Costume & Fashion Press
an imprint of
Quite Specific Media Group Ltd
7373 Pyramid Place, Hollywood, ca 90046
© Sarah Thursfield and Ruth Bean 2001
All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise, without the prior permission of the publisher
Isbn 0 903585 32 4
A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library
Design Alan Bultitude
Photo styling Caryl Mossop
Photography Mark Scudder & Les Goodey
Digital artwork Personabilia Design & Print, Higham Ferrers, Northants Printed in Hong Kong
Cover
Modern version of the chaperon, mid 15th century
The classic chaperon, seen here in black broadcloth, is made up of three parts - the liripipe and shoulder cape (gorget), which are sewn to a padded roll. The roll sometimes appears quite solid and may have been felted. The chaperon is often seen slung over the shoulder where it would stay in place with a long enough liripipe.
Contents
List of plates 7
Acknowledgements 8
Introduction 9
How to use the book 10
Part 1 The techniques
Preparation 13
Sources of information 13
Collecting information 13
Establishing the date for your outfit 13
Defining the wearer 15
Selecting your garments: visual inventory 15
Wearing your outfit 22
Care and storage 22
The personal pattern Block 23
Planningdirectlyfrom personalmeasurements 23 Measurements 23
Modelling a bodice toile 23
Modelling a toile for a man 25
Modelling a toile for a woman 27
From toile to Block 29
Transferring the toile to paper; The intermediate pattern; From intermediate pattern to Block 29
The sleeve Block 34
Trying out the sleeve with the bodice Block 37
Cutting the sleeve 38
Blocks for children 38
From Block to working pattern 39
Enlarging the Block for outer garments 40
Adapting the Block to add length,
width or fullness 40
Adapting the Block for long skirts 42
Making the working pattern for a garment 42
Methods 44
Hand or machine stitching? 44
Sewing stitches 44
Making up 46
Setting in simple sleeves 47
Finishing raw edges 48
Slits for fitchets, slashes for sleeves 49