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If you leave the skin on the breast when making Sous Vide Chicken, you can pan-sear it in hot oil to get the best of both worlds: perfectly cooked meat and beautifully browned skin

"I Preheat a water bath to 65°C/149°F. Ifyou

* have a second bath, seethe instruction at right.

Place each piece of chicken in a separate zip- “ top bag with 10 g/10 mL/2 tsp of oil. Use the water-displacement method (see page 6) to remove as much air as possible from the bag, and seal it.

O Cook the thighs sous vide for 90 minutes. Alternatively, cook3 hours for a stewed or braised texture. Cool in an ice-water bath. Do not open the bags.

/f Reduce the temperature ofthe water bath to 62 °C/144°F, a couple degrees above the target temperature. Adding a few ice cubes lowers the water temperature quickly.

Ifyou want to cook the drumsticks as well, seal them along with the thighs at step 2.

Cook the breast meat sous vide to a core temperature of 60 °C/140 °F, about 40 minutes. Hold it for another20 minutes at that temperature to pasteurize it.

When the breast meat is 10 minutes from being done, add the bagged thighs back into the bath to gently reheat them. This ensures that all ofthe chicken is warm at the same time,

^ Remove the skin and bones, and cutthe meat ' into slices 1 cm/ya in thick. Alternatively, keep the skin on, and sear the chicken pieces skin-side down in a hot, oiled pan until the skin turns dark brown. Cutthe meatfrom the thigh bone, and serve it warm or cold.

TO MAKE AHEAD

After cooking the chicken breast and thighs in steps 1-5, plunge the bags into an ice bath, and then refrigerate them. Reheat the meat in a 60°C/140 °F water bath for 10-15 minutes. Continue with step 7.

IF YOU HAVE TWO WATER BATHS

You can save 45 minutes by cooking the chicken breast and thighs in parallel. Preheat two water baths: one to 65 “C/149 °F (forthe thigh meat), and one to 62°C/T44°F (forthe breast meat). Cook the thighs sous vide for 90 minutes. Cook the breast meat sous vide to a core temperature of 60°C/140 °F, about 40 minutes, and hold for another 20 minutes to pasteurize it. Continue with step 7.SOUS VIDE TURKEY BREAST

YIELD:

TIME ESTIMATE:

STORAGE NOTES:

LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS:

four to six servings (700 g)

14 hours overall, including IS minutes of preparation and 13³Ahours unattended

keeps for 3 days when refrigerated

moderate

sous vide setup, brine injector or syringe

An injection of milk and apple juice into the turkey in this recipe infuses the meat with phosphates, which make it extremely tender when cooked. Apple juice is also effective alone, and an apple-juice brine gives the turkey a pleasantly sweet flavor.

Although turkey cooked to a core temperature of 56 °C /133 °F

will be surprisingly pink, don’t worry; the long cooking time ensures that it is safely pasteurized. If you prefer your turkey to have a more traditional appearance, taste, and texture, simply set the water bath to 62 °C / 144 °F, and cook the turkey breast to a core temperature of 61 °C / 142 °F. It will still be quite juicy.

INGREDIENT	WEIGHT	VOLUME	SCALING	PROCEDURE
Apple juice	75 g	75 mL/'/i cup	10%	® Combine, and stir until dissolved to make a brine.
Whole milk	75 g	75 mL/Vi cup	10%
Salt	10g	2¹/i tsp	1.3%
Sugar	9g	2 tsp	1.2%
Boneless, skinless turkey breast	750 g/1.7 lb	1 medium or two small	100%	© Inject the brine into each part ofthe breast. Capture any that escapes. © Place the breast and all captured or leftover brine in a zip-top bag. Remove the air from the bag by using the water-displacement method (see page 6), and seal it. Refrigerate the sealed bag for 12 hours. © Preheatawaterbathto57°C/135°F. © Remove the turkey from the bag, rinse it with cool water, and pat it dry. © Place the breast in a clean zip-top bag, remove as much air as possible from the bag (see page 6), and seal it. © Cook sous vide to a core temperature of 56°C/133“F, aboutl^ hours, and then hold it at that temperature for 35 minutes more. © Serve the turkey warm or cold.

Safety tips for lightly cooked food: see page ix

Best Bets for Cooking Tender Poultry

To cook, follow the steps for chicken breast in the recipe on the previous page. For more about the sous vide technique of cooking to a core temperature, see page 8. Once the meat reaches the target temperature, you can pasteurize it by keeping it in the water bath forthe amount oftime specified.

Medium Holdatfinal Holdatfinal

	rare	temperature*	Medium		temperature*
Ingredient	<°C) (°F)	(hours)	(°C)	(°F)	(minutes)	Note	See page
chicken breast	n/a		60	140	20	we prefer to cook the breasts on the crown, although this	previous
			65	149	5	takes at least twice as long; leaving the bone in helps the meat keep its shape and retain its juices
duck breast	54 129	2 h 17 min	58	136	30	for a firmer texture, soak for a day before cooking in a brine of 5 gsalt and 3.5 g sugar for every 100 g of water	50
quail breast	50 122	12	56	133	35	leave the skin on, and sear it over very high heat
squab breast	54 129	2 h 17 min	58	136	30	remove the skin, and wrap it in thinly sliced bacon before cooking
turkey breast	n/a		56	133	35	serve with a turkey variation of our Jus Gras (see	above
			62	144	8	page 17)

(times and temperatures in bold are those that we prefer) *(required to pasteurize)

TURKEY CONFIT

YIELD:

TIME ESTIMATE:

STORAGE NOTES:

LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS:

four servings (450 g)

24^l/i hours, including 30 minutes of preparation and 24 hours unattended

keeps for 5 days when refrigerated or up to 1 month when frozen

easy

sous vide setup, vacuum sealer, needle-nose pliers, duck fat, juniper berries

Duck confit is a classic French preparation in which duck meat is cooked in an abundance of duck fat. In this Thanksgiving version, dark turkey meat is vacuum-cured with a complex mйlange that blends the aroma of autumn herbs with the richness of duck fat.

If duck fat is unavailable, substitute butter or neutral-tasting oil.

You can also substitute duck or chicken legs for the turkey. We serve the confit as an accompaniment to slices of juicy Sous Vide Turkey Breast (see the previous page) and Home Jus Gras (see page 17).

INGREDIENT	WEIGHT	VOLUME	SCALING	PROCEDURE
Turkey legs	900 g/2 lb	2 legs	100%	® Preheat a water bath to 60 “C/140 °F.
				© Make a cut around the circumference of the ankle bone to sever the
				tendons.
				® Pull out the tendons, one at a time, by using needle-nose pliers.
				@ Push the meat and skin up the leg from the ankle, and clean the bone.
Salt	40 g	3yi Tbsp	4.4%	© Combine, and coat the turkey legs evenly in a thick layer. Set aside any
Sugar	⁴g	1 tsp	0.4%	salt and sugar that does not stick for use in the next step.
Duck fat, cold	150 g	cup	17%	© Combine with the coated turkey legs and any remaining salt and sugar,
Rosemary	2g	1 medium sprig	0.2%	and vacuum seal.
Thyme	2g	5 sprigs	0.2%	© Cook sous vide for 24 hours.
Juniper berries, crushed	2g	'/2 Tbsp	0.2%	© Remove the legs from the bag, and brush off the aromatics. You can
Garlic, crushed	2g	Vi clove	0.2%	strain the cooking fat and use it for other recipes.
Black peppercorns	0.5 g	'/a tsp	0.05%
Fresh bay leaf	0.2 g	1 leaf	0.01%
Neutral frying oil	as needed			® Pourthe oil into a pan to a depth of 6 mm/14 in, and heat to
see page viii				220 “C/428 °F.
				® Panfry the legs until the skin turns brown and crispy, 2-4 minutes per
				side. Alternatively, broil them until brown, 3-5 minutes per side.
				@ Serve immediately. You can also shred the meat.

Safety tips for deep-frying: seepage 4

Best Bets for Cooking Tough Poultry

To cook legs, thighs, and wings sous vide, follow the steps for chicken thighs in the recipe on the previous page. In this sous vide technique, time and temperature indicate doneness rather than the core temperature of the food (see page 8).

Tender and juicy Braised texture

Ingredient	ra	(°F)	(hours)	(°C)	(°F)	(hours)	Note	See page
chicken leg and thigh	65	149	V/2	68	154	3	to make fried chicken, cook sous vide, coat with a mix of equal parts potato starch and Wondra flour, and deep-fry at 195 °C/385 °F for3 minutes	108
chicken wing	65	149	1	62	144	12		next
duck leg	60	140	48	65	149	24	to make duck confit, brine the legs for 12 hours, and then cook each leg	above
				82	180	5	sealed in a plastic bag with 12 g/1 Tbsp of duck fat
turkey leg	65	149	8	70	158	10	brush with barbecue sauce, and finish on the grill	above
turkey wing	62	144	18	80	176	8	in the U.S., turkey wings are more widely available near the end of the year

(times and temperatures in bold are those that we prefer)

SOUS VIDE BUFFALO WINGS

YIELD:

TIME ESTIMATE:

STORAGE NOTES:

LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS: COES WELL WITH:

four servings (l kg/20-24 pieces)

4V2 hours overall, including 4 hours unattended

serve immediately

moderate

sous vide setup, vacuum sealer, Buffalo Sauce (seepage 115) Aerated Blue Cheese Sauce (see variation on page 117)

We brine these wings in an alkaline salt solution—a technique similar to that traditionally used in Chinese kung pao chicken—which tenderizes the meat and enhances the Maillard reactions that brown the wings. We then cook them sous vide and panfry them.

INGREDIENT	WEIGHT	VOLUME	SCALING	PROCEDURE
Water	500 g	500 mL/2 cups	50%	© Stirtogetherto make a brine.
Salt	35 g	3'/2Пbsp	3.5%
Baking soda	5g	1 tsp	0.5%
Chicken wings, jointed	1 kg/2.2 lb	20-24 pieces	100%	© Cut apart at the joints; discard the tips or save them for making stock. © Combine with the brine in azip-top bag, and refrigerate for 3 hours. © Preheat a water bath to 65 “C/149 °F. © Drain the chicken wings, and pat them dry with paper towels. © Place the chicken pieces in a single layer in a new zip-top bag, remove as much air as possible from the bag by using the water-displacement method (see page 6), seal it. Cook sous vide fori hour. © Place the cooked chicken pieces on atray, and pat them dry.
Neutral frying oil	as needed			© Preheat 1 cm/³/» in of frying oil in a deep skillet to 200°C/392°F.
see page vui				© Fry a few wings at a time in the hot oil until the skin becomes crisp, about 3 minutes. ® Drain the wings on papertowels.
Buffalo Sauce	as needed			® Brush ortoss the wings with sauce, and serve them hot.
see page 115

Safety tips for deep-frying, see page 4

Stirtogetherthe water, salt, and baking soda to make a brine. Make ® sure that the salt dissolves completely.

^ Cut each ofthe wings into three pieces at the joints. Don't use the wing tips in this recipe; you can use them to make stock (see page 9).

O Seal the brine and chicken wing pieces together in a large (4 L/l gal) zip-top bag. Refrigerate for 3 hours.

Preheat a water bath to 65 °C/149°F.

Ej Drain the chicken wings, and pat them dry with paper towels.

їT Place the chicken pieces in a single layer in a large (4 L/l gal), newzip- ^ top bag. Use multiple bags, if necessary. Use the water-displacement method (see page 6) to remove the airfrom the bag, and seal it.

Cook sous vide fori hour.

^ Place the cooked wings on a tray, and pat them dry with paper towels.

* Excess moisture causes dangerous splattering when the wings are placed in the oil.

₈

Pour frying oil into a deep skillet to a depth ofl cm/ys In, and preheat to 200 “C/392 °F. A traditional cast-iron skillet holds its temperature well during frying and browns the wings darkly and quickly.

Q Fry the wings, a few at a time, in the hot oil just long enough fortheskin *■' to crisp, about 3 minutes.

Drain the wings on paper towels.

Brush or toss sauce over the wings, and serve them hot.CRISPY CHICKEN WINGS, KOREAN-STYLE

YIELD:

TIME ESTIMATE:

STORAGE NOTES:

LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS:

four servings (l kg/20-24 pieces)

1 hour overall, including 30 minutes of preparation and 30 minutes unattended

marinate, refrigerated, for up to one day before cooking

easy

michiu rice wine, Wondra, potato starch, monosodium glutamate (MSG, optional), Korean Wing Sauce (seepage 116)

This adaptation pairs Chinese-style velveting with Korean-style marinade and sauce. During frying, the starchy coating forms a barrier against moisture that allows the wing meat to remain juicy while the skin browns to a crisp. After many tests, we found that this combination of potato starch and Wondra, a prehydrated flour, crisped and browned the best. We also got good, crunchy results

when breading the wings with other starches, such as corn, tapioca, and water chestnut starches. The michiu rice wine has a low boiling point, so it evaporates very quickly during frying and produces a very delicate crust. If michiu wine is unavailable, use sake, dry white wine, or three parts water to one part vodka instead.

INGREDIENT	WEIGHT	VOLUME	SCALING	PROCEDURE
Peanut oil Michiu rice wine (light)	100 g 70 g	110 mL/¹/2 cup 80 mL/'/3Cup	10% 7%	© Combine, and stir until the salt and sugar are completely dissolved to make a marinade.
Soy sauce	20 g	15 mL/3y2tsp	2%
Salt	⁵g	VA tsp	0,5%
Toasted-sesame oil	5g	5 mL/1 tsp	0.5%
Monosodium glutamate (MSG), optional	3g		0.3%
Sugar	2g	Vi tsp	0.2%
Chicken wings, cut up	1 kg/2.2 lb	20-24 pieces	100%	© Toss with the marinade, cover, and refrigerate for 30 minutes.
Neutral frying oil see page viii	as needed			© Pour into a deep potto no more than half full, and then preheat to 176°C/350°F.
Wondra	40 g	14 cup	4%	@ Combine.
Potato starch	38 g	Vi cup	3.8%	© Dust over the marinade-soaked chicken wings, and stir until the wings are evenly coated with a thin batter. © Deep-fry five to seven wings at a time until cooked through and golden brown, about 7 minutes. © Drain the wings on papertowels.
Korean Wing Sauce see page!16	280 g	l'/2 cups	28%	© Drizzle sauce generously overthe wings, and toss to coat. Serve them hot.

Safety tipsfor deep frying: see page 4

"I Combine the peanut oil, rice wine, soy sauce, salt, sesame oil, MSG

* (if using), and sugar, and mix thoroughly until the salt and sugar are

completely dissolved. This mixture serves as the marinade.

Toss the chicken wings with the marinade, cover with plastic wrap, and refrigeratefor30 minutes.

O Fill a deep pot or fryer no more than half full of frying oil, and preheat to 176 °C/350°F. The frying temperature for this recipe is slightly lower than in the other wing recipes because the Korean-style marinade is higher in sugar, and we want to avoid overbrowning the batter.

Stirthe Wondra and potato starch together until evenly mixed.

C Dust the Wondra and starch mixture over the marinade-soaked chicken wings, and stir until the marinade and starch form a thin batter and the wings are evenly coated.

Cl Deep-fry the wings in batches of five to seven until cooked through

^ and golden brown, about 7 minutes per batch. The cooking time depends on the size of your pot orfryer. The more oil in the pot, the less it cools when the cold wings enter it.

^ Drain the wings on paper towels.

O Drizzle Korean wing sauce over the wings generously, and toss them until coated. Serve the wings hot.CRISPY SKINLESS CHICKEN WINGS

YIELD:

TIME ESTIMATE: STORAGE NOTES:

LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS:

four servings (875 g/20-24 pieces)

45 minutes overall serve immediately moderate

500 mL whipping siphon, two cartridges of nitrous oxide, Chili Spice Mix (seepage 55)

This wing recipe captures everything we love about fried chicken. We remove the skin so that there is no barrier between the delightful crunch of the breading and the tender juiciness of the meat. The alcohol in the batter vaporizes very quickly and completely. As it does, it lowers the boiling point of the mixture, yielding a delicate crust that is crispier than skin ever could be. In effect, this is a

tempura chicken wing. Be sure to bring the wings to room temperature before frying them; the frying oil will recover its temperature more quickly after you add the food. If the food goes in cold, it tends to turn out greasy and overcooked. The batter, on the other hand, should be kept cold.

INGREDIENT	WEIGHT	VOLUME	SCALING	PROCEDURE
All-purpose flour	57 g	’/3 cup	5.7%	® Combine all ofthe dry ingredients.
Cornstarch	45 g	Vi cup	4.5%
Salt	6g	l'/2tsp	0.6%
Baking powder	!g	Vi tsp	0.1%
Water	200 g	200 mL/% cup	20%	© Whisk into theflour mixture to make a smooth batter.
Vodka	25 g	30 mL/2 Tbsp	2.5%	© Pour into a 500 mL siphon, charge with two cartridges of nitrous oxide, and refrigerate.
Chicken wings, cut up	1 kg/2.2 lb	20-24 pieces	100%	© Remove the skin from the wings.
Neutral frying oil see page viii	as needed			© Fill a deep potto no more than half full of frying oil, and preheat to 190°C/374°F.
Cornstarch	as needed foi	•coating		© Toss with the wings to coat evenly. Shake off excess starch. © Dispense the cold batter over the wings, and toss to coat thoroughly. © Deep-fry the wings, a few at a time, until cooked through and golden brown, 5-6 minutes. © Drain on papertowels.
Chili Spice Mix	20 g	2 Tbsp	2%	® Season the wings generously, and serve them hot.
see page 55
Salt	to taste

Safety tips for deep frying: see page 4

| Combine the flour, cornstarch, salt, and

* baking powder.

^ Whisk the water and vodka into the flour mixture until the batter becomes smooth.

*5 Pour the batter into a 500 mL siphon, charge the siphon with two cartridges of nitrous oxide, and refrigerate it. The batter must be cold to form a crisp crust.

/| Remove the skin from the wings by trimming

¹offthe connective tissue, pulling sections ofthe skin away while holding the wing with the back of a knife, and then cutting offthe pieces of skin. Alternatively, use scissors to make an incision, and then peel the skin away.

[T Fill a deep potto no more than half full with frying oil, and preheat the oil to 190°C/374°F.

/T Toss the wings with cornstarch until coated ” evenly, and shake off any extra. The starch helps the batter cling to the chicken.

^7 Dispense the cold batterfrom the siphon ' over the wings, and then toss the wings until they are thoroughly coated with batter.

O Deep-fry the wings in batches, a few at a time, until they are cooked through and golden brown, 5-6 minutes.

^ Drain the wings on papertowels.

Season the wings generously with the chili spice mix and salt (or another favorite spice mix; we like the MC Curry Powder on page 52). Serve them hot.

WHILE YOU'RE AT IT: Puffed Chicken Skin The chicken skin you don't use here could become its own tasty snack. Seal it in a zip-top bag, and cook it sous vide at 88 °C/190 “F for

12 hours. Remove the skin from the bag, dust it with cornstarch, place it on a baking sheet, and allow it to dry in adehydratororlow-temperature oven at 60-120 °C/140-250°F for 4-8 hours. Then fry the skin pieces in 1 cm/Ye in of very hot oil until they puff up and turn brown and crispy. Dust them with salt ora spice mix, and serve.

For a recipe for puffed pork skin, see page 96.BONELESS YAKITORI WINGS

YIELD:

TIME ESTIMATE: STORAGE NOTES:

LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS:

four servings (300 g/about 12 pieces)

25 hours overall, including 24 hours unattended keeps for up to 3 days when refrigerated before frying advanced (handling)

sous vide setup, vacuum sealer, potato starch, Yakitori Sauce (see page 116)

Boneless chicken wings are an unexpecLed treat. Use the center “forewing” portion. The trick is to cut off the bone ends, and then slide the bones out while the wings are warm.

Turkey wings make an excellent variation and oifer a little reminder of Thanksgiving. Although turkey wings are larger than chicken wings, the cooking time is the same.

INGREDIENT	WEIGHT	VOLUME	SCALING	PROCEDURE
Chicken forewings	500 g/1.1 lb	about 12	100%	® Trim the joint ends from the wings, cut away the connective tissues, and use the tip of a knife to loosen the meat around the exposed bones.
Water	500 g	500 mL/2 cups	100%	© Combine, and stir until the salt and sugar are completely dissolved to
Salt	30 g	3Tbsp	6%	make a brine.
Sugar	25 g	2/i Tbsp	5%	(D Cover the wings in the brine, and refrigeratethemforl2 hours. © Drain the brined wings, and pat them dry with papertowels.
Clarified, unsalted butter		5 tsp butter or	3%	© Preheat a water bath to 62 °C/144°F.
or neutral-tasting oil see page 37		15 mL/1 Tbsp oil		© Vacuum seal the wings in a single layer with the butter or oil.
or neutral-tasting oil see page 37				© Cook the wings sous vide for!2 hours. © While the wings are still warm, carefully remove the bones without rupturingthe skin. © Patthe skin dry with papertowels.
Neutral frying oil	as needed			@ Heatl cm/ys in of frying oil in a nonstick pan to200°C/392 °F,
see page vm Potato starch	25 g	2 Tbsp	5%	@ Coatthe wings with the starch, and shake off any excess. © Fry the wings until brown and crisp, about 2 minutes on each side. @ Drain the wings on papertowels.
Yakitori Sauce, warm	as needed			© Spoon the sauce overthe wings, and serve them hot.
see page!16

Safety tipsfor frying: see page 4

Trim the chicken wing pieces. Try to keep the skin intact. First, cut through both joints; keep the central forewing. Next, cut away the connective tissue. Finally, slide the tip of a knife around the exposed bones to loosen the meat. This step makes it much easier to remove the bones after cooking.

Stirthe salt and sugar in the water until they are completely dissolved. This is the brine.

Cover the wings in the brine, and refrigerate them for 12 hours. ^ Drain the brined wings, and pat them dry with paper towels. ^ Preheat a water bath to 62 "C/144 °F.

^ Vacuum seal the wings in a single layer with the butter or oil. yT Cook the wings sous vide for 12 hours.

Ђ) Remove the wings from the bag, and while they are still warm, carefully extract the bones. Avoid rupturing the skin.

Q Patthe wings dry with papertowels.

10 Heatl cm/³/« in of frying oil in a nonstick pan to 200°C/392°F,

Coatthe wings with the starch, and shake off any excess.

“I Fry the wings until they turn brown and crispy, about 2 minutes on each side.

13 Drain the fried wings on papertowels.

14 Spoon yakitori sauce overthe wings, and serve them hot.

TO MAKE AHEAD

After you remove the bones and dry the cooked wings in step 9, refrigerate them for up to 3 days. To reheat, seal the wings in a bag, and place in a water bath at 62 °C/144°Ffor30 minutes.Then continue with step 10.BUFFALO SAUCE

YIELD:

TIME ESTIMATE: STORAGE NOTES: LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY:

235 g/1 cup

1 hour overall, including 30 minutes of preparation and 30 minutes unattended

keeps for 3 days when refrigerated

moderate

Our Buffalo wing sauce is essentially a spicy variation of mayonnaise made with a flavored oil (which, by the way, can be used by itself). Here we use raw egg yolks, but pasteurized eggs can be substituted (see page 142 in the main volume). You can use this spicy, creamy sauce on almost anything. Note that because this sauce contains very little water, it won’t make your crispy chicken wings soggy. If at any point the sauce starts to separate and get oily, whisk it or puree it with an immersion blender until smooth.

INGREDIENT	WEIGHT	VOLUME	SCALING	PROCEDURE
Neutral-tasting oil Sweet onion, thinly sliced Garlic, thinly sliced Jalapeno pepper, minced Canned chipotle pepper in adobo, chopped Sweet paprika Cayenne	200 g 80 g 80 g 30 g 20 g 10 g 10 g	220 mL/1 cup ³A cup ⁵/a cup 3Tbsp 1 medium T/2 Tbsp lяi Tbsp	100% 40% 40% 15% 10% 5% 5%	® Combine in a pot, and cook over low heat until the garlic and onions are completely soft, about30 minutes. Alternatively, pressu re-cook togetherin acanningjarforlO minutes (see page 44). © Strain through a sieve lined with cheesecloth. Discard the solids, and cool the oil to room temperature. © Measure 150 g/³A cup of the flavored oil for use in the next step.
Egg yolks	50 g	3-4yolks	25%	© Place the egg yolks in a bowl, and gradually blend in the flavored oil and
(raw or pasteurized)				lemon juice by using an immersion blender until fully emulsified.
Lemon juice	50 g	50 mL/3ViTbsp	25%
Salt	8g	2 tsp	4%	© Season the sauce, and serve it at room temperature.

HONEY MUSTARD SAUCE

YIELD: 200g/1 cup

time estimate: 5minutesovera.ll

storage NOTES: keeps for 7 days when refrigerated

cayenne pepper, grated horseradish, or Japanese wasabi. Or add a few drops of liquid smoke for a smoky flavor. The pickled mustard seeds add a great popping texture, and you can add up to twice as many of them if you like.

LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: easy

The flavor of this sauce depends greatly on the kind of honey and mustard you use; experiment with varieties you find intriguing.

Maple syrup can be substituted for the honey. Sweet herbs or spices such as tarragon, cinnamon, or cloves provide a change of pace.

Give the sauce more kick with dry mustard powder, chili powder,

INGREDIENT	WEIGHT	VOLUME	SCALING	PROCEDURE
Dijon mustard	100g	³/a cup	100%	© Stirtogether until thoroughly mixed.
Honey	50 g	3Tbsp	50%
Pressure-Cooked Pickled Mustard Seeds, drained see page 43	40 g	2’/2 Tbsp	40%
Apple cider vinegar	12 g	15 mL/1 Tbsp	12%
Salt	to taste			© Season the sauce, and serve it warm or cold.

YAKITORI SAUCE

YIELD:

TIME ESTIMATE:

STORAGE NOTES:

LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS:

500 g/2 cups

12V4 hours overall, including 15 minutes of preparation and 12 hours unattended

keeps for 3 days when refrigerated

easy

mirin, sake, bonito flakes

Yakitori is Japanese for grilled (yaki) bird (tori); it is usually made with chicken. This popular bar food is somewhat akin to tapas in Spain. Yakitori comes in many forms, but in the most common style, small pieces of chicken are strung on bamboo skewers, grilled over

a very hot charcoal fire, and then brushed with this delicious sauce. The pineapple in the sauce contains an enzyme, called bromelain, that tenderizes the surface of the meat. Teriyaki sauce can be substituted in a pinch.

INGREDIENT	WEIGHT	VOLUME	SCALING	PROCEDURE
Mirin	200 g	230 mL/1 cup	89%	© Combine in a pot, and bringto a simmer.
Honey	110 g	'/3 cup	49%
Light soy sauce	100g	85 mL/yi cup	44%
Dry sake	100g	120 mL/’/i cup	44%
Bonito flakes	20 g	1 cup, packed	9%
Ginger, finely grated	5g	2 tsp	2%
Pineapple rind and flesh, cubed	225 g	1'/2 cups	100%	© Pourthe hot soy sauce mixture overthe pineapple, and let it cool. © Refrigerate for12 hours. © Strain through a sieve lined with cheesecloth, reserving the sauce. Discard the pineapple rind. The pineapple cubes can be used in stir-fry.
Rice vinegar	50 g	60 mL/Vi cup	22%	© Season the sauce, and serve it warm or cold.
Salt	15g	5 tsp	6.7%

KOREAN WING SAUCE

YIELD:

TIME ESTIMATE:

STORAGE NOTES:

LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS:

280 g/1 cup IS minutes

keeps for 5 days when refrigerated easy

mouth” (usu kuchi) soy sauce, the variety we prefer for this recipe. If you can’t find Shaoxing wine (a Chinese rice wine), substitute medium-dry sherry.

This sweet and spicy sauce is addictive. It is well worth the time to search your local Asian market for these specialty ingredients. Often sold in tubs, gochujang is a sweet, complex chili paste that you might find yourself slathering on almost everything. Look also for “thin

INGREDIENT	WEIGHT	VOLUME	SCALING	PROCEDURE
Gochujang (Korean fermented chili paste)	135 g	'/2 cup	100%	© Combine, and whisk together until the sugar dissolves. © Serve the sauce warm or cold.
Sugar	50 g	'/3 cup	37%
Soy sauce	30 g	25 mL/5tsp	22%
Shaoxingwine	27 g	30 mL/2 Tbsp	20%
Toasted-sesame oil	20 g	20 mL/llаTbsp	15%
Garlic, minced	10 g	1 Tbsp	7.4%
Ginger, minced	8g	1 Tbsp	6%

gochujang (Korean fermented chili paste), Shaoxing wine

BLUE CHEESE SAUCE

YIELD; 600g/2V4 CUpS

TIME ESTIMATE: 15 minutes overall

STORAGE NOTES: keeps for 3 days when refrigerated

LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: easy

special requirements: Wondra, sodium citrate

Use a bold blue cheese, such as Maytag, Roquefort, Gorgonzola, or smooth sauce, the sodium citrate we use here as an emulsifier requires

Stilton. Overheating cheese sauces usually is taboo, but to make a that the sauce simmers while you gradually blend in the cheese.

INGREDIENT WEIGHT VOLUME SCALING PROCEDURE

Wondra Sodium citrate	12 g 4g	5 tsp 3% 1%	© Mix until thoroughly combined.
Whole milk, cold	200 g	210 ml/⁷/a cup 50%	© Whisk together with the Wondra mixture in a medium saucepan, and bring to a simmer. If the powders clump, the milk was not cold enough.
Blue cheese, crumbled	400 g	3'A cups 100%	© Add gradually to the simmering milk mixture, and use an immersion blenderto blend each addition until the cheese is melted and the sauce is completely smooth. © Cool the sauce completely, and serve it cold.
VARIATION: Aerated Blue Cheese Sauce To make a light, airy version of the Blue Cheese Sauce, pourthe warm sauce into al L siphon, and charge the siphon with two cartridges of nitrous oxide. Dispense a cloud of blue cheese alongside chicken wings or on a raw vegetable platter.
CHINESE GARLIC CHILI		CONDIMENT
YIELD: TIME ESTIMATE: STORAGE NOTES: LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY:		145 g/IV3 cups 30 minutes overa.il serve within 30 minutes moderate
Variations of this condiment are often seen in Chinese “salt and pepper” dishes. Adjust the spiciness to suit your taste. For a more aromatic version, include minced ginger, cilantro, and lemongrass			along with the jalapeno. This condiment tastes fabulous not only with chicken wings but also with fried frogs’ legs, fried tofu, grilled pork chops (see page 83), and cold noodles dressed with sesame oil.
INGREDIENT	WEIGHT	VOLUME SCALINC	PROCEDURE
Neutral-tasting oil Garlic, minced	432 g 150 g	470 mL/2 cups 288% leup 100%	© Set a strainer over a pot near the stove top. © Combine the garlic and oi! in another pot. Make sure the pot is no more than half full to allow space for bubbling and froth. © Cook over high heat, stirring constantly, until the garlic turns golden brown, about 6 minutes. Once the garlic darkens in color, it burns quickly, so watch it closely. © Pourthrough the strainer. © Spread the garlic on papertowels to drain.
Scallions, white parts only, minced	40 g	’/2 cup 27%	© Add to the pot of hot, strained oil. Place the strainer overthe empty pot. © Cook over high heat, stirring constantly, until the scallions turn golden brown, about4 minutes. © Pourthrough the strainer. © Spread the scallions on papertowels to drain. © Measure 3 g/3 mL/Vi tsp of the oil for use in the next step. You can use any remaining oil for flavoring steamed fish or pasta.
Jalapeno pepper, finely chopped Salt	33 g 8g	3 Tbsp 22% 2 tsp 5.3%	© Combine with the reserved oil, fried garlic, and fried scallions. Mix thoroughly. © Serve within 30 minutes, while the garlic and scallions remain crisp.

SKEWERS

There’s something inherently fun about food on a stick. Skewered foods pop up in food culture all over the world: in yakitori bars in Japan; in the astounding variety of satay sold by Thai and Malaysian street vendors; in cotton candy, deep-fried ice cream, and corn dogs at the Minnesota State Fair; and in candy apples and popsicles— even in “Spamsicles” and crispy crickets on a stick.

We give some of our favorites skewers a Modernist update by

cooking the meat sous vide to the perfect temperature before skewering it. One benefit of this approach is that the skewers can be made in advance, vacuum sealed, and then refrigerated. When you are ready to serve them, simply place the bag in a 55 °C / 131 °F water bath for 15-20 minutes to reheat, and then sear them in a very hot pan, on a hot grill, under a blowtorch, or in hot oil. The sauce is optional.

Safety tips for deep frying: see page 4 Safety tips for btowtorching: see page 2

Pesto Chicken Thighs

Cut300g/0.7 lb ofboneless, skin-on chicken thigh into

2.5 cm/1 in pieces. Vacuum seal the chicken in a single layer. Cook sous vide at 65 “C/149 “F forT/2 hours. Thread three to five pieces of cooked meat onto each skewer so that all ofthe skin faces the same direction. Finish by searing the chicken, skin-side down, in a hot dry pan. Brush with Pistachio Pesto (see page 22).

Korean Pork Belly

Cut300 g/0.7 lb offresh pork belly, with its skin on, into

2.5 cm/1 in cubes. Vacuum seal the pork in a single layer. Cook sous vide at 62 “C/144 “F for 48 hours. Remove the meat from the bag, and thread three to five pieces onto each skewer. Finish by using a blowtorch or by deep-frying the skewers in 190 “C/375 °F neutral frying oil, and then glazing with Korean Wing Sauce (see page 116).

Deep-Fried Tsukune

Prepare the skewers of chicken meatballs as described in the Tsukune recipe on the next page. Finish by deep-frying the meatballs in 190 “C/375 “F neutral frying

oil until cooked through, about

3 minutes. Brush with Sous Vide Spiced Chili Oil (see page 36).

Chicken Skin Yakitori

Vacuum seal 200 g/0.4 lb of chicken skin in a single layer. Cook sous vide at 88 “C/190 “F forl2 hours. Separate the pieces of skin while they are still warm, and thread them onto skewers. Cool completely, and then finish by deep-frying in 190 “C/375 °F neutral frying oil until crisp,

4-5 minutes. Claze with Yakitori Sauce (see page 116).

Tsukune

Boneless, skinless chicken	400 g/0.9	lb iy»cups
thigh meat, finely ground		from 3 thighs
Leeks, white parts only,	45 g	V* cup
minced
Egg white, beaten	35 g	3 Tbsp
Yakitori Sauce	20 g	1 Tbsp
see page 116
Toasted-sesame oil	10g	10 mL/2% tsp
Ginger, minced	⁶g	2 tsp
Wondra	5g	Vh tsp
Salt	⁴g	1 tsp

Chicken meatballs are called tsukune in Japanese. They are served on skewers and are delicious.

Combine all ingredients in the bowl of a stand mixer, and stir with the paddle attachment until the mix coheres, about 2 minutes. Refrigerate the mixture fori hour to firm and hydrate it. Adjust the oven rack so that the skewered meatballs will be about 5 cm/2 in from the heat source, and then preheat the broiler to high.

Shape the mixture into 2.5 cm/1 in meatballs by usinga small scoop or your wet hands. Thread three meatballs onto each bamboo skewer. Place the meatballs on an oiled broiler rack, and broil until golden brown and cooked through, 3-4 minutes per side. Serve hot as is, or sweetened by brushing on additional yakitori sauce.

Lamb Skewers with Mint Yogurt

Cut300 g/0.7 lb of lamb leg into

2.5 cm/1 in cubes. Vacuum seal the lamb in a single layer. Cook sous videat56°C/133°Ffor3 hours. Remove the meatfrom the bag, and thread three to five pieces onto each skewer. Finish by searing the meat on all sides with a blowtorch. Serve with mint yogurt.

Mint Yogurt: Mix together 150 g/⁵/e cup of plain yogurt and 15 g/5Tbsp of chopped fresh mint. Season with salt to taste.

Chicken Breast Satay

Vacuum seal a whole, boneless, skinless chicken breast of about 300 g/0.7 lb. Cook the chicken sous vide at 60 “C/140 “F to a core temperature of 59 “C/138 °F, and then hold at that temperature for

1 hour. Remove the meatfrom the bag, and cut it into 2.5 cm/1 in pieces. Thread three to five pieces onto each skewer. Optionally, sear the cooked meat overa hot grill or under a blowtorch. Then brush with Pressure-Caramelized Peanut Sauce (see page 31).

Beef Short Ribs with Shiitake Marmalade Trim 300 g/0.7 lb of boneless beef short rib, and cut the meat into 2.5 cm/1 in cubes. Vacuum seal the pieces in a single layer. Cook sous vide at 58 “C/136 °F for 72 hours. Remove the meat from the bag, and thread three to five pieces onto each skewer. Finish the meat by searing it or by deep-frying it in 190 “C/375 “F neutral frying oil until brown and crisp. Smother the skewers with Shiitake Marmalade (see page 64), and sprinkle grated Gruyere cheese over the top.

Filet Mignon with Montpellier Butter

Trim 300 g/0.7 lb offilet mignon. Vacuum seal the filet whole.

Cook sous vide at 54°C/129 “F to a core temperature of 53 “C/ 127 “F, about 35 minutes. Remove the meat from the bag, and cut it into 2.5 cm/1 in cubes. Thread three to five pieces onto each skewer. Finish by searing the meat on all sides with a blowtorch, topping with grated Montpellier Butter (see page 38), and blow- torching again briefly to melt the butter.four servings (250g/1 cup)

10 minutes overall

keeps for 1 day when refrigerated

easy

pressure cooker

YIELD:

TIME ESTIMATE:

STORAGE NOTES:

LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS:

This simple technique makes very tender vegetables in only a few minutes. The thickness of the vegetables determines the correct cooking time. If the vegetables are thicker or thinner than noted, increase or decrease the time accordingly.

Carrots, unpeeled, 2.5 cm/1 in in diameter

200 g

2 carrots

100%

® Place the vegetables on a rackortrivet in a pressure cooker, and add 1 cm/y8 in of water. The vegetables should cook above, not in, the water. © Pressure-cook at a gauge pressure of 1 bar/15 psi for 5 minutes. Start

Leeks, 2.5 cm/1 in in diameter, thoroughly washed

150 g

1-2 leeks

75%

timing as soon as full pressure has been reached.

If the vegetables are not yet tender enough for your liking, replace the lid, and continue to pressure-cook forl-2 minutes more.

©Rub the skins off the carrots, and peel and discard the outermost layer ofthe leeks.

INGREDIENT

WEIGHT VOLUME

SCALING

PROCEDURE

Safety tips for pressure-cooking: see page 5

TO MAKE AHEAD

Refrigerate the cooked vegetables. Reheat them in a steamerfor

2 minutes, or place them on a microwave-safe plate, coverwith microwave-safe plastic wrap, and microwave at 500 watts until just warmed through, about 30 seconds.

VARIATIONS

This technique works well with other root vegetables such as beets, turnips, potatoes, celery root, and parsnips. Cut them into pieces of equal thickness when cooking them together. See Pressure-Cooked Vegetables on page 77.

CHICKEN NOODLE SOUP

YIELD:

TIME ESTIMATE: STORAGE NOTES:

LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS:

four servings (2.4 kg/10 cups)

15 minutes serve immediately moderate

Fresh Egg Noodles (seepage 122), Pressure-Cooked Carrots and Leeks (see above), Sous Vide Chicken (see page 108), Aromatic Chicken Broth (see the next page), Pressure-Rendered Chicken Fat (seepage 41)

The secret to perfecting this seemingly simple soup is ensuring that of the ingredients are prepared and timed to be assembled quickly

each component is cooked and seasoned to perfection. Make sure all so that the soup is piping hot when it gets to the table.

INGREDIENT	WEIGHT	VOLUME	PROCEDURE
Fresh Egg Noodles, hot see page 122	400 g	4 cups	© Peel the mushrooms, and slice them on a mandoline to paper-thin slices. © Divide evenly between four serving bowls.
Pressure-Cooked Carrots and Leeks, warm see above	250 g	20 pieces of carrot 16 pieces of leek
White button mushrooms	22 g	³/i cup
Sous Vide Chicken, warm and sliced see page 108	700 g	2 cups
Aromatic Chicken Broth, hot seethe next page	1 kg	1 L/4Va cups	© Pour into the prepared soup bowls.
Pressure-Rendered Chicken Fat, melted (optional) see page 41	40 g	45 mL/3 Tbsp	© Drizzle overthe soup for added flavor.

AROMATIC CHICKEN BROTH

YIELD:

TIME ESTIMATE:

STORAGE NOTES:

LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS:

four servings (l kg/4^!A cups)

10 minutes overall serve immediately easy

blowtorch (optional), French press (optional), monosodium glutamate (optional)

Use either a traditional white stock or a savory, roasted brown broth as the main ingredient in this recipe. For best results, prepare the ingredients but do not combine them until you are ready to plate the soup, as described on the previous page. The last-minute infusion gently draws out all of the aromatics from the herbs and spices just before you pour the broth at the table, creating a wonderfully

fragrant experience. It’s like making coffee or tea: although you can make and infuse the broth ahead of time, the natural perfume will fade as it sits. We like to infuse the broth in a French press and pour it at the table, but it can also be made in a saucepan and then strained.

INGREDIENT	WEIGHT	VOLUME	SCALING	PROCEDURE
Garlic	20 g	5 cloves	2%	© Cut each garlic clove lengthwise into thick slices. © Char by using a blowtorch, or sear the slices on both sides.
Staranise Black peppercorns	⁴g ⁴g	1 staranise V2 tsp	0.4% 0.4%	® Toast the spices in a dry frying pan over medium-high heat, stirring constantly, until fragrant, about 3 minutes.
Salt	15 g	5 tsp	1.5%	© Combine with the charred garlic and toasted spices in the beaker of
Chervil, bruised	14 g	12 branches	1.4%	a large French press.
Thyme, bruised	2g	4 sprigs	0.2%
Tarragon, bruised	!g	7 leaves	0.1%
Bay leaves, sliced	0.4 g	2 leaves	0.04%
Monosodium glutamate (MSG), optional	5g		0.5%
White or brown chicken stock see page 9	1 kg	1 L/4>i cups	100%	© Bringto a boil. Pour over the ingredients in the French press, and stir. © Leave to infuse for2 minutes. Then press, and serve hot.

Safety tips for bio wtorching: see page 2

"J Cut each garlic clove lengthwise into thick slices.

O Char both sides of each slice evenly with a blowtorch (use MAPP or “ propylene fuel), or sear them in a very hot, dry pan for 20 seconds. The surface should be dark and blistered, but the interior should remain moist. This step removes the raw garlic flavor and adds a complexity to the finished broth.

O Toast the star anise and peppercorns in a dry frying pan over medium- *“* high heat, stirring constantly, until fragrant, about 3 minutes. Fora spicierflavor, crack the spices in a mortar and pestle.

Combine the herbs, salt, and MSG (optional) with the charred garlic and toasted spices in the beaker of a large French press.

C Bring the chicken stock to a full boil. Pour over the ingredients in the French press, and stir. If you are not using a French press, simply remove the stock from the heat, stir in the aromatics, and cover.

/T Leave the stock to infuse for 2 minutes. Then press or strain it, and ” serve it hot.The infusion technique from our Aromatic Chicken Broth recipe on the previous page lends itself to a variety of flavorful soups and broths. Each of the recipes below uses the same simple procedure. First, combine all ingredients except the noodles. Then stir, cover, remove from the heat, and allow to infuse for 2-3 minutes. Finally, strain the broth, add the cooked noodles, and serve. Each of these recipes yields four servings (1 kg / 4¹/* cups).

Pho Soup

Beef stock, very hot see page 10	1 kg	1 L/4% cups
Onion, halved and charred	240 g	1 large
Ginger, sliced in halfand charred	50 g	Vi cup/1 piece 6 cm/2¹^ in long
Sugar	30 g	2 Tbsp
Asian fish sauce	10g	9 mL/1% tsp
Monosodium glutamate (MSG), optional	5g	1 tsp
Black peppercorns	⁴g	1'/3tsp
Star anise	2g	1-2 whole
Cinnamon stick, crumbled	2g	1 large stick
Whole allspice Rice Noodles see variation on page 123	lg as needed	'A tsp

Goulash Broth

Pork stock, very hot see variation on page 10	1kg	1 L/4'/4 cups
Canned tomatoes	150 g	VA cups
Red bell pepper juice	150 g	150 mL/²/3 cup
Fresh dill sprigs, bruised	30 g	2 cups
Sherry vinegar	20 g	25 mL/l’/г Tbsp
Caraway seeds	6g	2У* tsp
Hot paprika	2g	1 tsp
Cumin seeds	1g	Vi tsp
Rye Noodles see variation on page 123	as needed

Thai Soup

Pressure-Cooked Crustacean Stock, very hot see page 12	1 kg		1 L/4ⁿ/4 cups
Coconut milk	100g		100 mL/⁷/s cup
Palm sugar, grated	40 g		’/3 cup
Asian fish sauce	20 g		20 mL/3y2 tsp
Galangal, toasted and crushed	10g		2Tbsp/3-4 slices
Limejuice	6g		6 mL/1!4 tsp
Lemongrass, thinly sliced	5g		1 Tbsp
Lime leaf, crushed	lg		1 leaf
Coconut Noodles see variation on page 123		as needed

Chinese Soup

Duck stock, very hot see page 9	1 kg	1 L/4⁵A cups
Ginger, sliced	15 g	2'A Tbsp
Shaoxing wine	10 g	10 mL/2³/e tsp
Scallion, sliced	8g	2 Tbsp
Dry-cured ham, julienned	8g	2 Tbsp
Monosodium glutamate (MSG), optional	5 g	1 tsp
Whole Wheat Noodles see variation on page 123	as m	eeded

Tortilla Soup

Chicken stock, very hot see page 9	1 kg	1 L/4% cups
Canned tomatoes	100 g	У& cup
Onion, diced	50 g	Уа cup
Tortilla chips, crumbled	lOg	Ул cup
Jalapeno chili, sliced	5g	1 tsp
Cilantro sprigs	⁴g	Ул cup
Limejuice	2 g	2 mL/³/e tsp
Cumin seeds	0.4 g	Уг tsp
Masa Harina Noodles see variation on page 123	as needed

FRESH EGG NOODLES

YIELD:

TIME ESTIMATE: STORAGE NOTES:

LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS:

four servings (640 g)

2Vi hours overall including 30 minutes of preparation and 2 hours unattended

raw dough keeps for 2 days when vacuum sealed and refrigerated; noodles keep for 1 day

when refrigerated

moderate

stand mixer with dough hook or food processor, vacuum sealer, pasta machine, vital wheat gluten

The trick to making fresh noodles with extra chew is to add gluten. Try using whole wheat, buckwheat, and other flours for variety.

If you’re short on time, you can use 675 g of store-bought fresh noodles or dry noodles instead in the chicken soup; follow the

INGREDIENT WEIGHT VOLUME SCALING

All-purpose flour	420 g	3 cups	100%
Water	125 g	125 mL/yi cup	30%
Egg	SO g	1-2 eggs	12%
Extra-virgin olive oil	25 g	30 mL/2 Tbsp	6%
Vital wheat gluten (Bob's Red Mill brand)	16g	2 Tbsp	4%
Salt	4g	1 tsp	1%

directions on the package to cook them.

Alinguine cutter will allow you to make wider noodles from the pasta sheets. And if you don’t have a pasta machine, you can use a rolling pin, and then cut the pasta by hand using a knife.

PROCEDURE

(D Divide the chilled dough into four even pieces.

@ Dust the dough with flour, and press it flat. Line a tray with a lightly floured, dry cloth.

Olive oil or Pressure- Rendered Chicken Fat see page 41

as needed

| Combine the flour, water, egg, olive oil, gluten, and salt in the bowl of a stand mixer. Mix with the dough hook attachment for 8 minutes. The dough should gradually come together in dense, smooth, elastic balls that do not stick to the sides ofthe bowl.

^ry Vacuum seal the dough, or seal it in a zip-top bag. Refrigerate it over- night, or for at least 1 hour. Sealing the dough keeps it from drying out and helps hydrate the starch.

^ Divide the chilled dough into four even pieces.

Dust a piece with flour, and use the palm of your hand to flatten it. Lineatray with a lightly floured, dry cloth.

C Roll the dough through a pasta roller into sheets 2 mm/¹/i6 in thick. Place the pasta sheets side by side on the tray. The sheets of pasta should not overlap; use multiple trays if necessary.

Ј2 Refrigerate the pasta sheets, uncovered, for about 1 hour. They should " dry slightly and become slightly leathery.

^7 Cutthe sheets into spaghetti-like noodles. Any shape of pasta works in this dish, but thicker noodles require more time to cook.

O Dust the noodles generously with flourto prevent sticking, and return them to the cloth-lined tray, or hang them from a pasta-drying rack.

Q Pour a measured amount of water into a large pot, add 0.5-0.75 g of salt for every 100 g of water, and bring the water to a boil. This is less saltthan is typically used in water when cooking pasta because we include a generous amount of salt in the pasta dough itself.

Boil the noodles for 30 seconds to make firm noodles or 60 seconds to make tender noodles. For thicker pasta, cook small test batches to find the optimal time.

Drain the pasta, toss it with oil, rendered fat, or pasta sauce, and serve it immediately.

Pasta sheets

This pasta dough, as well as the variations on the next two pages can also be rolled and cut to wide shapes for use in lasagna or cannelloni.

You can use a food processor in place of a stand mixer. Blend the wet ingredients in the processor. Dry-blend the flour, gluten, and salt. Combine them with the wet ingredients, and then pulse in the processor until the dough just starts to cohere. Transfer the dough to a clean surface, and knead it until it becomes elastic and smooth, about 3 minutes. Continue with step 2.Each of the pasta dough variations below follows the same procedure as our Fresh Egg Noodles recipe on the previous page (and, like that recipe, incorporates vital wheat gluten). But each of the variations also includes a suggested sauce or other accompaniment. Quantities given here are for noodles made from 400 g of raw dough.

00 flour*	195 g	l</3 cups
Egg yolks, biended	75 g	5 yolks
Water	60 g	60 mL/Vi cup
Barley flour	53 g	'/2 cup
Olive oil	45 g	50 mL/3'/2 Tbsp
Vital wheat gluten (Bob s Red Mill brand)	7.5 g	1 Tbsp
Salt	3g	V* tsp

Serving suggestion: Toss the cooked, drained noodles with 235 g/% cup of Pistachio Pesto (see page 22).

Potato Noodles

00 flour*	275 g	1У2 cups
Water	120 g	l20mL/¹/2Cup
Eggs, blended	75 g	2 eggs
Potato flour	52.5 g	Уъ cup
Neutral-tasting oil	45 g	50 mL/3V2Tbsp
Vital wheat gluten (Bob s Red Mill brand)	20 g	2'A Tbsp
Salt	6g	1% tsp

Rye Noodles

Water	125 g	125mL/'/4cup
OOflour*	125 g	^ЪА cup
Rye flour	105 g	^?/a cup
Vital wheat gluten (Bob's Red Mill brand)	72 g	^л/г cup
Egg, blended	50 g	^legg
Olive oil	12.5 g	15 mL/1 Tbsp
Salt	2g	’/2 tsp

Serving suggestion: Cook 135 g of blended egg yolks (9-10 yolks) sous vide at 62 °C/144°Ffor40 minutes. Sautй 115 g/T/2 cups of thinly sliced pancetta. Toss the cooked, drained noodles in the warm eggs, pancetta, 40 g/14 cup of thinly sliced scallions, 60 g/60 mL/14 cup ofwaterfrom cooking the pasta, and black pepper.

Serving suggestion: Sautй 100 g/1 ’/2 cups of sliced garlic chives and 200 g/3 cups of thinly sliced shiitake mushrooms in 56 g/60 mL/

Vi cup of neutral-tasting oil until just tender. Toss the cooked, drained noodles with 142 g/³/4 cup of Sesame Dressing (see variation on page 35). Garnish with toasted-sesame seeds and 43 g/V2 cup of thinly sliced Chinese sausage, fried crisp.

Masa Harina Noodles

Water	130 g	130 mL/Vi cup
OOflour*	125 g	³A cup
Masa harina	105 g	Ун cup
Vital wheat gluten (Bob's Red Mill brand)	72 g	Vi cup
Egg, blended	50 g	legg
Corn oil	12.5 g	15 mL/1 Tbsp
Salt	2g	Vп tsp

Rice Noodles

OOflour*	150 g	/s cup
Water	120 g	120 mL/yi cup
Rice flour	100g	⁷/всир
Egg, blended	50 g	legg
Vital wheat gluten (Bob’s Red Mill brand)	40 g	5 Tbsp
Rice bran oil	20 g	20 mL/iyi Tbsp
Salt	2g	У2 tsp

Serving suggestion: Sautй 345g/2'/2 cups of freshly shucked sweet corn kernels in 56 g/5 Tbsp of unsalted butter. Toss the cooked, drained noodles with corn and butter, and garnish with grated queso fresco or Cotija cheese and grated lime zest to taste.

Serving suggestion: Toss the cooked, drained noodles with 145 g/ ⁵/a cup of Pressure-Caramelized Peanut Sauce (see page 31), and drizzle with 45 g/50 mL/3'/2 Tbsp of Pressure-Rendered Chicken Fat (see page 41), and a pinch of chili powder.

Coconut Noodles

OOflour*	195 g	VA cups
Egg yolks, blended	75 g	5 yolks
Water	60 g	60 mL/% cup
Coconut flour	53 g	y& cup
Neutral-tasting oil	53 g	55 mL/V* cup
Vital wheat gluten (Bob's Red Mill brand)	7.5 g	1 Tbsp
Salt	3g	1 tsp

Serving suggestion: Toss the cooked, drained noodles with 160 g/ y₃ cup of Thai Sweet, Sour, and Savory Glaze (see page 33), and garnish with crushed, roasted peanuts, coconut cream powder, and tiny dried shrimp.

Whole Wheat Noodles

Whole wheat flour	260 g	13/4 cups
Water	90 g	60 mL/³/e cup
Egg, blended	50 g	legg
Olive oil	25 g	30 mL/2Tbsp
Vital wheat gluten (Bob's Red Mill brand)	5g	2 tsp
Salt	2g	V2 tsp

Serving suggestion: Toss the cooked, drained noodles with 400 g/l⁵/a cups of Marinara (see page 32), and garnish with finely shredded basil.FRAGRANT SOUS VIDE SALMON

YIELD:

TIME ESTIMATE:

STORAGE NOTES:

LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS:

four servings (600 g)

5-54 hours overall, including IS minutes of preparation and 5 hours unattended

serve immediately; brined fish keeps for up to 1 day when refrigerated

easy

sous vide setup, Fish Spice Mix (optional, seepage 54)

Use the highest-quality salmon you can find. We like to brine the fish before cooking to season it, firm it, and protect its delicate color. If you have time, decrease the salt to 20 g and the sugar to

15 g, and brine the fish for 24 hours—the effect is even gentler.

The cooked fish is delicious served hot or cold; if you’re serving it cold, cook it sous vide in oil rather than butter so that the fat won’t congeal. For firmer salmon, cook it sous vide to a core temperature ofSl°C/ 124 °F.

INGREDIENT	WEIGHT	VOLUME	SCALING	PROCEDURE
Water	1 kg	1 L/414 cups	100%	© Stirtogether until completely dissolved to make a brine.
Salt	50 g	4'/2 Tbsp	5%
Sugar	40 g	2'A Tbsp	4%
Salmon fillets, skin and pin bones removed	600 g/1.31b	4 fillets	60%	© Submerge the salmon in the brine, and refrigerate for 3-5 hours. (D Drain the brine from the salmon.
Neutral-tasting oil, olive oil, ormelted butter	120 g	130 mL/'/2 cup	12%	© Preheat a water bath to 46 "C/115 °F. © Place each fillet with 30 g/30 mL/2Tbsp of oil or butter in a separate zip-top bag. Remove as much air as possible from the bags by using the water-displacement method (see page 6), and seal them. © Cook sous vide to a core temperature of 45 "C/113 °F, about 25 minutes for fillets 2.5 cm/1 in thick. © Transfer the cooked fillets gently from the bags to a plate.
Unsalted butter	80 g	V» cup	8%	© Melt the butter in a nonstick frying pan over medium-low heat.
Fish Spice Mix (optional) see page 54	15 g	2 Tbsp	1.5%	© Add the fish spice, if you are using it, and increase the heat until the butter just starts to bubble. © Add the fillets, and cook while basting with the hot butter for about 30 seconds perside. Serve immediately.

Safety tips for tightly cooked food: see page ix

We love to serve this salmon with simple sauteed asparagus and peas during spring. Serve with cabbage, shiitake mushrooms, and thyme in the colder months.

TO MAKE AHEAD

After drainingthe brine in step 3, you may refrigerate the salmon for up to 24 hours.

1 Make the brine by stirring the salt and sugar into the water until com-

* pletely dissolved. If you use warm water (which dissolves the salt and sugar more quickly), cool the brine completely before adding the salmon.

Submerge the salmon in the brine, or seal salmon portions with the brine in azip-top bag, and then refrigerate itfor3-5 hours. Briningthe fish firms its surface and makes it both tastier and easier to handle.

Drain the brine from the salmon.

^ Preheat a water bath to 46 °C/115°F.

E" Place each fillet in a separate zip-top bag along with 30 g/30 mL/

^ 2 Tbsp of oil or butter. Arrange the fillets so that the longer, thicker sides are atthe bottom of the bag; this prevents them from bending while cooking. Use the water-displacement method (see page 6) to remove as much air as possible from each bag, and seal it.

/T Cook the salmon sous vide to a core temperature of 45 “C/T13 °F. Fillets ” that are 2.5 cm/1 in thick will require about 25 minutes to reach the target temperature at their thickest part. Thinner pieces may need just 12-15 minutes to cook; thicker pieces may take 30 minutes or more. Clip the bags to the side of the bath.

Transfer the cooked fillets gently from their bags to a plate so that they

* are easier to handle.

Q Melt the butter in a nonstick frying pan over medium-low heat.

Q Add the fish spice, if you are using it, and then increase the heat until the butter just starts to bubble.

Add the fillets, and baste them in the pan with the hot butter for about 30 seconds per side. Serve the fish immediately; it is not very hot, so cools rapidly. The fish pairs well with seasonal vegetables.

HOWTO Poach Salmon in a Kitchen Sink

This is a fun and simple way to begin enjoying the virtues of low- temperature cooking without investing in sous vide equipment. A pot of water preserves a constant temperature for up to 1 hour, far more time than is necessary to cook fish—and even enough time to cook some steaks. (A picnic cooler keeps the water temperature stable for

“I Brine the salmon by following steps 1-3 on the previous page

■ (optional).

Choose a target core temperature for the salmon: 45°C/n3°Ffor rare “ (our preference), 48°C/118°Ffor medium, or52 °C/126°Fforfirm.

О Adjust the temperature ofthe tap water until it is2-5°C/5-9°F higher ^ than the target temperature, as measured with a digital thermometer.

up to 5 hours; see page 80 for an example of this technique.) The more food you put in the water bath, and the colder that food is, the more the water temperature drops. To help hold the heat, bring the food to room temperature before cooking it, and use your largest pot and an abundant amount of water.

C Place each fillet, along with 30 g/30 mL/2Tbsp of oil or butter, in a separate zip-top bag. Use the water-displacement method (see page 6) to remove as much air as possible from the bags, and seal them.

/2 Cook sous vide to the desired core temperature, about 25 minutes for fillets that are 2.5 cm/1 in thick. Continue with step 7 ofthe recipe on the previous page to finish the salmon.

/1 Place a large pot in the sink, and fill it with the hot tap water. If prepar-

¹ing larger batches offish, you can use a large cooler, or even fill your entire sink with water (see page 64 in the main volume).

HOWTO Bake Salmon in a Toaster Oven

Your toaster oven can approximate cooking sous vide, and you won't need an additional finishing step. The texture ofthe salmon will be slightly more dense because ofthe higher cookingtemperature and

drier cooking environment. Cooking takes longer than in a water bath because dry heat is not as efficient at conducting heat, but the result is still excellent.

Brine the salmon by following steps 1-3 on the previous page (optional).

Calibrate your toaster oven (see page 4), and set it to 90-110 °C/ 200-225 °F.

Place the salmon on a small baking sheet, and cook it until the core temperature reaches 45°C/113“F, 38-40 minutes. Use a digital thermometer to monitor the core temperature. About halfway through the cooking, baste the fish with a neutral- tasting oil or clarified butter, and dust with the Fish Spice Mix on page 54, if desired.CRISPY FISH SKIN

YIELD;

TIME ESTIMATE: STORAGE NOTES:

LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS:

four pieces (each 5 cm by 7.5 cm/2 in by 3 in)

5 Ґ4 hours overall, including 15 minutes of preparation and 5 hours unattended

serve immediately after frying; keeps for up to 1 day when refrigerated after cooking sous vide

advanced (handling)

sous vide setup, vacuum sealer

Any flavorful fish skin works well in this recipe. Softer skins, such as those of cod and snapper, should be cooked sous vide for 3 hours rather than 5 hours. The ice-bath cooling in step 5 is crucial for handling and frying the skin properly.

Salmon skin	2 pieces (10 cm by 15 cm/4 in by 6 in)	® Preheat a water bath to 88 “C/190 °F. © Scale the fish skin. © Remove all ofthe meat, fat, and sinew from the inside ofthe skin to prevent it from curling. © Vacuum seal the pieces, and cook sous vide for 5 hours. © Plunge the bags into an ice bath to cool completely.
Neutral fryingoil see page xxii	as needed	© Cut open the bags, and carefully peel the cooked fish skin from the plastic. Patthe skin dry. © Cut the skin into pieces 5 cm by 7.5 cm/2 in by 3 in square. © Preheatthe frying oil to 185 "C/365 “Fin a pot no more than half full. © Put afew pieces ofthe fish skin, one at a time, into the oil. Use long tongs, and be very careful, as the moist skin reacts violently with the hot oil. © Deep-fry until very crispy, 1-3 minutes. © Drain on paper towels.
Salt	to taste	© Season, and serve immediately.
		Safety tipsfor deep-frying: see page 4

INGREDIENT

WEIGHT

PROCEDURE

TO MAKE AHEAD

After cooling the fish skins in step 5, refrigerate the sealed bags for up to 24 hours. Continue with step 6.

VARIATIONS Baked Fish Skin Chips

To make baked chips, brush orspraythe cooked skin with oil, season it, and then sandwich it between two silicone mats and two baking sheets. Bake it in a 165 °C/330 ”F oven until crisp, 20-45 minutes.

Crispy Chicken or Pork Skin

Substitute chicken skin or pork skin forthe salmon skin. At step 4, cook sous vide for 12 hours if making chicken skin or for 18 hours if making pork skin. Continue with step 5. Fora recipe for Pressure-Cooked Chicharrуn, see page 96.

Best Bets for Cooking Fish Sous Vide

Ingredient		Just cooked <°C) (°F)				just flaking (°C) (°F)				Note	See page
black cod or true cod		45	113			48	118			benefits from dry curing for 3 hours with 7 g of salt and 5 g of sugar for every 100 g offish	51
halibut		42	108			46	115			great when seared over banked coals on the grill	202 in the main volume
mackerel or sardine		42	108			46	115			benefits from dry curing for 3 hours with 7 g of salt and 5 g of sugar for every 100 g of fish	51
salmon		40	104			45	113			brine with a solution of salt and sugar	51
snapper		46	115			50	122			delicious when drizzled with spiced oil after cooking	36
sole orfluke	48			118	52			126	with thin fillets, stack two and vacuum seal them together-the natural gelatin will bind them gently; with thicker fillets, fold the thin ends under so that the thickness is even from end to end; cook small fish on the bone, and sear them in butter
tuna	42			108	55			131	give tuna a quick sear in brown butter after cooking sous vide; for cooking at 51 (brine) 55 °C/131 °F, we brine the fish first, and then finish it with an aromatic oil 36 (oil)

(temperatures in bold ore those that we prefer)

The steps for cooking salmon sous vide are described on page 124, The target core temperatures listed below are ourfavorites, but tastes vary, so feel free to experiment with others. We've found that about 25 minutes is usually sufficient to bring a 2.5 cm/1 in thick piece offish from refrigerator temperature to the target temperature. But times depend greatly on the

thickness ofthe fish, so check for doneness by using a digital probe thermometer (see page 8 In the main volume). Be sure to set the water bath to

1 °C/2°F higher than the target core temperature given in the table. Fish cooked sous vide often benefits from a finishing step, such as searing in butter or a quick grilling, which both heats and firms the surface.HOWTO Kill and Shell a Lobster

With seafood, freshness is everything. The best way to get great shellfish is to identify a reputable fishmonger orfish market. Shellfish should smell like the sea—briny but not overpowering. Buy clams, mussels, and lobsters straight off the boat, or from tanks filled with clean water. Look for foods that move fast at the market; it helps to eat what the locals eat because uncommon foods tend to sit around.

“I Place the tip of a large, sharp knife at the cross on the shell, about

* 2.5 cm/1 in behind the eyes, pointing the blade away from the tail.

In one quick movement, cut deep into the head, toward the front ofthe lobster.

Twist the head from the body, and break off the claws. The lobster is dead as soon as step 1 is complete, but nervous reflexes may still be active, so expect the extremities to twitch briefly.

O Thread a chopstick or skewer between the tail meat and the bottom shell to straighten it for aesthetic purposes (optional). Be sure to save the body, legs, and any dark green roe for making crustacean butter or stock (see page 40).

A Bring a large pot of water to a rolling boil. Arrange an ice bath

■ alongside.

Once you buy live shellfish, you have to kill it, clean it, and shell it.

A lobster tastes better if you kill it just before you cook it. Research suggests that lobsters can feel pain, so it is worth taking the effort to dispatch the animals gently. Some claim that the technique described below is the most humane method, while others put the lobsters to sleep in a freezer before boiling them (see below).

C Blanch the lobstertails in the boiling water for 90 seconds, and then plunge them in the ice water. Blanch the claws for4 minutes, and then submerge them in ice water. This step loosens the meatfrom the shell so that it is easier to remove.

Cl Clean the meat from the tails by cutting the shell with good kitchen shears and carefully peeling it off. Wear gloves to protect your hands from the sharp edges. Wash off any curd-like albumin that may have exuded duringthe blanching.

"7 Clean the meatfrom the claws and knuckles (the pieces that connect ' the claws to the body) in the same manner.

O Cook the meat immediately, or vacuum seal the lobstertails and ” lobster claws separately, and store refrigerated for up to 24 hours.

VARIATION: Freezing the Lobster

Place the live lobsters in the freezer for about 30 minutes to put them to sleep, but do not let the meat freeze. This reduces the shock of boiling. Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Arrange an ice bath alongside. Blanch the whole lobster in the boiling water for 2 minutes to kill it. Working quickly, separate the tail and claws from the body. Plunge the tails in ice water. Return the claws to the boiling water for an additional 2 minutes, and then plunge them in ice water. Finish with steps 6-8 above.

Best Bets for Cooking Shellfish Sous Vide

Blanch and shuck mussels and clams, as described on the next page, before cooking them sous vide. To cook these and other shellfish sous vide, seal the shucked meat along with any flavorings, fats, or liquids in a zip-top bag. Next, select a target core temperature from the table below to match the degree of doneness you prefer. Preheat a water bath to! °C/2°F higher than

the target temperature, and then cook for the time indicated or until the core temperature of the food reaches the target. Shellfish is best lightly cooked; forfood-safety information, see page ix. Shellfish can be served immediately, or chilled and served cold. Fordishes having multiple kinds of shellfish, cook each separately, and then combine.

Ingredient	Preparation	(°C)	(°F)	(min)	re)	(°F)	(min)	(°C)	(°F)	(min)	Note	page
clams	blanched and shucked	48	118	10	56	133	8	65	149	5	cook in its own juice	next
lobster claws	shelled	54	129	to core	60	140	to core	65	149	to core	best cooked in butter	130
lobstertails	shelled	49	120	to core	54	129	to core	59	138	to core	best cooked in butter	130
mussels	blanched and shucked	62	144	10	65	149	10	68	154	7	cook in its own juice	132
oysters	shucked	45	113	10	48	118	10	52	126	7	cook in its own juice
scallops	shelled, with or without roe	42	108	to core	50	122	to core	54	129	4	sear in a very hot pan for 10 seconds on each side
shrimp, prawns peeled		48	118	to core	60	140	7	80	176	4	may look translucent	130

Barely cooked

Tender

Firm

(times and temperatures in bold are those that we prefer)

HOWTO Shuck Mussels

A quick steam, followed by a plunge into ice water, relaxes the adductor muscles that hold mussels and clams shut. The treatment makes it easier to shuck the mollusks, but don't assume that if the shell doesn't open, the meat inside is bad. The shell could simply be full of mud.

"1 Debeard the mussels. Use the flat of a knife or needle-nose pliers to

* pull out the entire beard. Just severing the visible portion will leave part ofthe beard inside.

Scrub the debearded mussels with a stiff brush. Smell each mussel,

■“ and discard any that do not close or are strong-smelling.

*3 Place the mussels in a zip-top bag. Steam for2 minutes over boiling water in a covered pot, and then plunge the bag into ice water.

You must pay attention to how each mussel or clam looks and smells as you shuck it. If the meat smells terrible, that's a sure sign that it has spoiled. If it looks wrinkled and dry rather than plump and moist, throw it out.

C Shuck the mussel meat from the shells over a bowl to capture addi- tional juices. To do that, slip the blade of a small, sharp knife between the two shells of each mussel at the wide end, and sever the adductor muscles on both sides. Open the shell, and cutthe meat free.

Ј2 Allow any grit to settle to the bottom ofthe reserved broth, and decant the collected juices through a fine strainer lined with cheesecloth ora coffee filter.

A Place a bowl under a strainer, and empty the contents ofthe bag into ~ thestrainer. Collect the juices—they give a flavorful boostto sauces and broths. Transfer the mussels to a clean bowl.

HOWTO Shuck Clams

There's nothing worse than a gritty clam. Deep-burrowing clams, such as the softshell (long-neck) varieties can accumulate a lot of grit. Hardshell clams, such as littlenecks, stay closed for most of their lives, so they

"I Soak the clams in cold, salted water in the refrigeratorfor at least

4 hours to purge the sand. Use 15 g of non-iodized salt for every 1 kg ofwater. (Iodine is lethal to clams.)

^ Pull the clams from the brine gently; do not disturb the sand on the bottom ofthe bowl. Scrub each shell with a dish sponge or nailbrush reserved for this purpose.

*3 Place the clams in a zip-top bag. Steam them for 2 minutes above boil- ing water in a covered potto relax the adductor muscles, and then plunge the bag into ice water.

tend to be cleaner. You can eliminate grit from particularly sandy clams by soaking them in a non-iodized salt brine, and by cutting away the small sack of innards that is attached to the bottom of each clam belly.

/f Place a bowl under a strainer, and empty the contents ofthe bag into

thestrainer. Collect the juices—they give a flavorful boostto sauces and broths. Transfer the clams to a clean bowl.

[“ Shuck the clam meat from the shells overthe strainerto capture addi- tional juices. To do so, slip the blade of a small, sharp knife in between the two shells of each clam, and sever the adductor muscle near the hinge. Open the shell, and cutthe meat free.

Ј2 Allow any grit to settle to the bottom ofthe reserved broth, and decant the collected juices through a fine strainer lined with cheesecloth.LOBSTER ROLL

YIELD:

TIME ESTIMATE:

STORAGE NOTES:

LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS:

four servings (750 g/3 cups of lobster salad)

2 hours overall, including IV2 hours of preparation and 30 minutes unattended cooked lobster and dressed lobster salad keep for up to 1 day when refrigerated moderate

sous vide setup, Vacuum-Infused Celery (seepage 49), Tomato Leather (optional, seepage 47)

You might think it’s hard to improve on an old-fashioned lobster roll—until you taste one made with lobster cooked with precision to attain ideal sweetness and tenderness. Butter infused with lobster shells (see page 40) adds extra flavor and color to the toasted bun.

Green apples and herbs freshen the lobster salad, and infused celery and tomato leather add a Modernist twist. Don’t bother messing with a boutique hot dog bun in this New England classic—go with the usual supermarket variety. Fancier rolls detract from the lobster.

INGREDIENT	WEIGHT	VOLUME	SCALING	PROCEDURE
Live lobsters	1.5 kg/3.3 lb	2 large lobsters	300%	® Preheat a water bath to 50 “C/122 °F, and arrange an ice bath alongside. © Kill, blanch, and clean the lobsters; see page 128 for instructions.
Neutral-tasting oil	lOg	10 mL/2 tsp	2%	© Place the tail meat pieces and half ofthe oil in azip-top bag. Place the claw and knuckle meat with the rest ofthe oil in a separate zip-top bag. Remove as much air as possible from the bags, and seal them. @ Cook the tail meat sous vide to a core temperature of 49 “C/120 °F, about 15 minutes, and then plunge the bag in ice water. © Increase the water bath temperature to 55°C/131 “F. Cook the claw and knuckle meat sous vide to a core temperature of54°C/129 °F, about 15 minutes, and then plunge the bag in ice water. © Cut all ofthe lobster meat into chunks no larger than 1 cm/³/e in.
Cooked lobster meat, from above	500 g/1.1 lb	V/i cups	100%	© Combine, and mixthoroughly.
Mayonnaise	200 g	1 cup	40%
see page 25
Granny Smith apple, finely diced	40 g	³/a cup	8%
Chives, thinly sliced	⁴g	2 Tbsp	0.8%
Tarragon, minced	⁴g	1 Tbsp	0.8%
Black pepper, ground	to taste
Salt	to taste			© Season the dressed lobster meat.
Hot dog buns (store-bought) Pressure-Cooked Crustacean Butter or	30 g	4 buns 2 Tbsp	6%	© Warm the crustacean butterto room temperature, and spread it generously on the inside ofthe buns. Place the buns facedown in a dry frying pan, and toast them over medium heat until golden brown, about 2 minutes.
clarified, unsalted butter
see pages 40 or37
Vacuum-Infused Celery see page 49	20 g	2V2 Tbsp	4%	® Divide the dressed lobster meat evenly amongthe toasted buns. Garnish with celery and tomato leather, and serve immediately.
Tomato Leather, strips (optional)	16 strips
see page 47

Safety tips for lightly cooked food: see page ix

VARIATIONS Shrimp orCrab Roll

Skip step 1-6. At step 7, substitute cooked shrimp or store-bought cooked crab forthe lobster.

Sous Vide Lobster Tail

To make a main course of lobster, preheat a water bath to 55 “C/131 °F. Seal the shelled lobster tail meat with 20 g of butter in a zip-top bag, remove the air, and seal. Cook sous vide to a core temperature of 54°C/129“F, about 12 minutes. Serve with melted butter and fresh herbs, or with Caramelized Carrot Puree (see page 75) and a dusting of Chaat Masala (see page 53).

“I Preheat a water bath to 50 °C/122°F, and arrange an ice-water bath alongside.

O Kill, blanch, and clean the lobsters; see the step-by-step procedure on ■“ page 128.

*5 Place the tail meat pieces and half ofthe oil in a zip-top bag. Place the ^ claw and knuckle meat with the rest ofthe oil in a separate zip-top bag. Remove as much air as possible from the bags, and seal them.

/\ Cook the tail meat sous vide to a core temperature of 49 °C/120°F, about 15 minutes. Immediately plunge the bag in ice water.

C Increase the temperature ofthe water bath to 55 °C/131 °F. Cook the claw and knuckle meat sous vide to a core temperature of 54°C/129°F, about15 minutes, and then submerge the bag in ice water.

/T Cut all ofthe lobster meat into chunks no larger than 1 cm/ye in. Discard any bits of shell you come across.

“7 Combine the diced lobster, mayonnaise, apple, chives, tarragon,

* and pepper, and stir until thoroughly mixed.

Season the dressed lobster meat with salt to taste.

Q Spread crustacean butter generously on the inside ofthe buns. Place the buns, buttered-side down, in a frying pan over medium heat, and toast them until golden, about 2 minutes.

Divide the dressed lobster meat evenly amongthe toasted buns. Garnish the sandwiches with infused celery and tomato leather, and serve them immediately.MUSSELS MARINIИRE

YIELD:

TIME ESTIMATE:

STORAGE NOTES:

LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS:

jour servings (SOOg/ about 35 mussels)

45 minutes overall, including 35 minutes of preparation and 10 minutes unattended serve immediately moderate sous vide setup

INGREDIENT	WEIGHT	VOLUME	SCALING	PROCEDURE
Live mussels Dry white wine Shallots, thinly sliced	500 g/1.1 lb 150 g 100 g	about 35 mussels 150 mL/ys cup 1 cup	100% 30% 20%	® Preheat a water bath to 62 “C/144 °F. Bring a pot of water to a boil, and set a large steamer rack above the water. Arrange an ice bath alongside. © Debeard and scrub the mussels (see steps 1-2 on page 129). © Place the mussels, shallots, and wine in a heat-safe plastic bag. © Steam for2 minutes, plunge the mussels into the ice bath, and then shuck them. Collect and strain the juices (see steps 3-6 on page 129). © Seal the strained juices with the mussel meats in a zip-top bag (see page 6), and cook them sous vide forlO minutes. © Strain the mussels, and measure 70 g/70 mL/'/j cup ofthe mussel juices for use in step 10.
Extra-virgin olive oil	10 g	10 mL/2 tsp	2%	© Saute over medium heat until the shallots and garlic are lightly browned
Shallots, minced	10g	1 Tbsp	2%	and aromatic, about 5 minutes.
Garlic, minced	8g	2'/i tsp	1.6%
Chili flakes	0.5 g	Vi tsp	0.1%	© Add to the pan, and cook for a few seconds.
Dry white wine	45 g	45 mL/3 Tbsp	9%	© Add, and reduce until syrupy, about 4 minutes.
Mussel juice, from above	70 g	70 mL/V3 cup	14%	® Add, bring to a simmer, and then remove the pan from the heat.
Italian parsley,	²g	1 Tbsp	0.4%	@ Stir into the sauce, add the mussel meats, stir gently to coat, and then
thinly sliced Tarragon, thinly sliced	!g	1 tsp	0.2%	remove the mussel meats from the pan so as not to overcook them.
Thyme leaves	Tg	1 tsp	0.2%
Salt Lemon juice	to taste to taste			@ Season, and serve immediately.

Safety tips for lightly cookedfood: see page ix

Mussel juices

The natural juices that come out of mussels when they open are very flavorful. Chefs use mussel juice to add depth to butter sauces for fish and soups. Be sure to save any extra juices—or at least have some good bread and olive oil handy so that you don't waste any of this precious liquid.

Throughout France, you see people sitting in bistros and brasseries feasting on bowls of sweet, tender mussels that have been cooked in wine, savory brine juices, and garlic. This classic dish is easy to overcook, however; all too often the mussels end up tough, dry, and disappointing. Cooking the mussels sous vide solves that problem.

Forget the old rule that any mussel that doesn’t open when cooked is bad. By the time mussels pop all the way open, many of them are probably overcooked. A bad mussel either smells very strongly or looks dry and shriveled, so inspect them as you shuck them before cooking.

Preheat a water bath to 62°C/144°F. Bring a pot of water to a boil. Seta large steamer rack above the water, and arrange an ice bath alongside the pot.

Debeard and scrub the mussels by following steps 1-2 on page 129.

Place the mussels with the shallots and wine in a heat-safe plastic bag such as a roasting, freezer, or sous vide bag. The purpose of the bag is to capture the juice; it doesn't need to be sealed.

Steam the mussels for2 minutes, plunge them immediately into the ice water, and then shuck them. Collect and strain the shucking juices (see steps 3-6 on page 129). The mussels should not be cooked through; this step simply makes them easier to shuck.

Place the strained juices and mussel meats in a zip-top bag. Remove as much air as possible (see page 6), and seal the bag. Cook the mussel meats sous vide forlO minutes.

Strain the mussels, and measure 70 g/70 m\./Vi cup of the juices for use in step 10.

Combine the oil, shallots, and garlic in a saute pan, and cook over medium heat until the shallots and garlic are lightly browned and aromatic, about 5 minutes.

Add the chili flakes, and cook for a few seconds.

Add the white wine, and continue cooking until the mixture turns syrupy, about4 minutes.

Add the reserved mussel juice. Return the mixture to a simmer, and then remove the pan from the heat.

Stir in the Italian parsley, tarragon, and thyme, add the mussel meats, stir gently to coat, and then remove them from the pan to avoid overcooking them.

Season the dish with salt and lemon juice, and serve it immediately. Don't let the mussels sit in the hot juices for more than a few seconds, or else they will get too firm.CLAMS IN CHOWDER SAUCE

YIELD:

TIME ESTIMATE: STORAGE NOTES:

LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS:

four servings (360 g/ 30-40 dams)

1 hour overall, including 45 minutes of preparation and 15 minutes unattended

keeps for 1 day when refrigerated

moderate

pressure cooker, aerolatte, whey protein isolate (optional)

In this lighter take on the classic soup, clams are dressed in a warm, foamy sauce. For a more substantial dish that is closer to a typical chowder, add extra chowder broth, and stir in some caramelized onions (see page 45) and some microwave-steamed fingerling potatoes cut into bite-size pieces (see variation on page 44).

Whey protein isolate, which we add to make the broth foamy, is a protein derived from milk. You can find it at health-food stores, but do not confuse it with sweet or flavored whey powders sold for protein shake mixes. If you prefer more fully cooked clam meats, see the table on page 128 for sous vide time-and-temperature combinations.

INGREDIENT	WEIGHT	VOLUME	SCALING	PROCEDURE
Littleneck clams	750 g/1.7 lb	30-40 clams	100%	® Soak and scrub the clams as described in steps 1-2 on page 129.
Dry white wine	150 g	150 mL/⁵/scup	20%	(D Bring a pot of waterto a boil, and set a large steamer rack above the
Shallots, thinly sliced	100 g	1 cup	13%	water. Arrange an ice bath alongside. © Place the clams, wine, and shallots in a heat-safe plastic bag. @ Steam for2 minutes, plunge the bag into the ice bath, and then shuck the clams. Collect and strain the juices (see steps 3-6 on page 129). © Measure 240 g/245 mL/1 cup of clam juice for use in step 9. © Rinse the clam meats in cold water.
Bacon, diced	36 g	'A cup	4.8%	© Sweat in the base of a pressure cooker over medium heat until lightly rendered but not brown, about 2 minutes.
Yellow onion, diced	65 g	/2 CUp	9%	© Add to the bacon, and sweat until translucent, about 2 minutes.
Celery, diced	65 g	Vi cup	9%	© Add the reserved clam juice, and pressure-cook at agauge pressure of 1 bar/15 psi for 15 minutes. Start timing when full pressure is reached. © Let the cooker cool, or run tepid water overthe rim, to depressurize it. © Strain, and measure 200 g/200 mL/^scup ofthe clam chowder broth for use in the next step.
Heavy cream	300 g	330 mL/iyo cups	40%	© Combine in a saucepan with the reserved clam chowder broth, and simmer over low heat until reduced by about one third.
Whey protein isolate (optional)	⁶g	V/2 Tbsp	0.8%	© Whisk into the simmering broth. © Blend the broth until smooth and foamy by using an immersion blender or aerolatte.
Worcestershire sauce	0.5g	1 drop	0.07%	© Season the sauce.
Cayenne pepper Salt	0.1g to taste	pinch	0.01%	© Stir the clam meats into the sauce, and remove it from the heat. Allow to sit 20 seconds to just warm the clams through, and serve immediately.

Safety tipsfor pressure-cooking: see page 5 Safety tips for lightly cooked food: see page ix

TO MAKE AHEAD

After rinsing the clam meats in step 6, seal them in a zip-top bag with the remaining juices, and refrigerate for no more than 24 hours. When ready to make the chowder, continue with step 7. In step 16, let the clams sit for

1 minute in the hot sauce to warm through.

VARIATIONS Oyster Stew

Substitute diced leeks for the bacon, and substitute oyster meats and juice forthe clams.

Pistachio Clam Chowder

At step 13, stir in 36 g/3 Tbsp of Pistachio Pesto (see page 22).

South of France Chowder

Add 39 g/3Tbsp of Rouille (see variation on page 25) at the last second before serving.SOUS VIDE BRAISED SNAILS

YIELD:

TIME ESTIMATE: STORAGE NOTES:

LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS: COES WELL WITH:

four servings (200 g/ 24 snails)

514 hours overall, including 15 minutes of preparation and 5 hours unattended keeps for up to 5 days when refrigerated or up to 3 months when frozen easy

sous vide setup, canned French Helix snails Pressure-Cooked Paella delBosco (seepage 153)

Although canned snails are already cooked, the sous vide treatment described here infuses them with flavor and makes them wonderfully tender. Use braised snails in paella, or serve them solo as classic

escargot by stirring them into melted butter with minced garlic and parsley, or into Montpellier Butter (see page 38).

INGREDIENT	WEIGHT	VOLUME	SCALING	PROCEDURE
Canned French Helix snails	200 g	24 large snails	100%	© Preheat a water bath to 68°C/154°F. © Clean the snails. Drain the liquid, and peel away and discard the stomach and intestines ofthe snails.
White chicken stock, frozen, or ice see page 9	300 g	300 mL/V/t cups	150%	CD Combine with the cleaned snails in a bag, and vacuum seal. © Cook sous videfor5 hours. © Drain, reservingthejuices.
Carrots, thinly sliced	100g	1 cup	50%	© Pick out the snail meat, and discard the vegetables and aromatics.
Sweet onion, thinly sliced	90 g	/a cup	45%	© Serve warm, or store, refrigerated, in the reserved juices.
Salt	7.5 g	2 tsp	3.8%
Thyme	0.7 g	1 large sprig	0.4%
Fresh bay leaf	0.2 g	1 leaf	0.1%

It doesn't take much to start a snail farm, and anthropologists think that snails were one ofthe first mollusks to have been farmed by humans. Only oysters have been cultivated longer.yield: 800 g (enough for four 30-35 cm/12-14 in pizzas)

time ESTIMATE: IV2 hours overall, including 30 minutes of preparation and 1 hour unattended

STORAGE NOTES: keeps for 3 days when refrigerated in plastic wrap or up to 3 months when frozen

LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: moderate

SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS: stand mixer with dough hook, Antico Caputo 00 wheat flour, vital wheat gluten

This is a classic Neapolitan pizza dough. It’s best when rolled thin create an elastic dough; buy it online or at specialty food markets,

and cooked quickly at a very high temperature. Antico Caputo 00 You can substitute all-purpose flour, but you may need to add up

is an extremely fine wheat flour used by most pizzerias in Naples to to 10% more water.

INGREDIENT	WEIGHT	VOLUME	SCALING	PROCEDURE
00 wheat flour	500 g	3³/i cups	100%	© Mix in the bowl ofastand mixer with a dough hook until fully
(Antico Caputo brand)				incorporated.
Water	310 g	310 mL/l’/о cups	62%	© Mix on medium speed for5 minutes.
Honey or agave syrup	10g	2 tsp	2%	© Letthe dough rest in the bowlforlO minutes at room temperature,
Salt	10g	21/2 tsp	2%	and then mix again for5 minutes on medium speed.
Vital wheatgluten	2.5 g	T/2 tsp	0.5%	© Transfer the dough to a well-floured surface, and cut it into four 200 g
(Bob's Red Mill brand)				chunks. Stretch and roll it into smooth, even balls.
Active dry yeast	2.5 g	³/4 tsp	0.5%
Neutral frying oil	as needed			© Coatthe balls lightly with oil, coverthem with plasticwrap, and letthem
see page viii				rest at room temperature fori hour before using.

TROUBLESHOOTING TIP:

The finished dough should pull away from the sides (as shown in the photo on page 297 in the main volume), notthe bottom, ofthe mixing bowl. If it does not pull away from the sides, sprinkle in a teaspoon of flour, and let it fully mix, repeating until the sides ofthe bowl are clean.

VARIATIONS Quinoa Pizza Dough

Quinoa flour, available at health-food stores and gourmet supermarkets, makes a nutritious pizza dough that has a dense, chewy texture and a nutty taste. Quinoa dough is less stretchy than dough made only from wheat flour, so use care when forming it.

Substitute 250 g/1?» cups of all-purpose flour and 250 g/V/s cups of quinoa flour for the 00 wheat flour. Increase the amount of vital wheat gluten to 5 g/2’/i tsp.

Buckwheat Pizza Dough

Buckwheat is the grain used to make Japanese soba. It has a hearty flavor and a coarse mouthfeel.

Substitute fine, sifted buckwheatflourforl50 g/l!/3 cups of Antico Caputo 00 wheat flour, and increase the amount of gluten to 5 g/2'/2 tsp.

Breadsticks

Divide the rested dough into 55 g pieces, and shape the pieces into batons. Arrange the batons on a lightly greased baking sheet. Brush them lightly with beaten egg, and sprinkle aboutl g/’/2 tsp of grated Parmesan cheese over each. Bake at 220°C/430°F until golden brown, 12-15 minutes.

"I Mix the flour, water, honey, salt, gluten, and yeast in the bowl of a stand

* mixer with a dough hook until fully incorporated.

2 Mix on medium speed for5 minutes.

O Let the dough rest in the bowl for 10 minutes at room temperature, and then mix again for another 5 minutes on medium speed. Allowing the gluten to relax between kneadings creates an especially smooth, stretchy dough.

A Transfer the dough to a well-floured surface, and cut it into four chunks of200 geach. Stretch and roll the dough into smooth, even balls. Stretching the surface layer develops a network of gluten that traps air inside the ball, resulting in a lighter, more blistered crust.

C Coatthe balls lightly with oil, coverthem with plastic wrap, and allow them to rise at room temperature fori hour before using. Fora more complex flavor, refrigerate the dough balls overnight, and then let them rest at room temperature fori hour before using.1 kg (enough for five 30-35 cm/12-14 in pizzas)

24Vi hours overall, including 30 minutes of preparation and 24 hours unattended keeps for 3 days when refrigerated or up to 3 months when frozen advanced (handling)

stand mixer with dough hook or dough scraper'; Foolish (see the next page); vital wheat gluten

YIELD:

TIME ESTIMATE:

STORAGE NOTES:

LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY:

SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS:

The fermentation of the poolish, described on the next page, adds a complex flavor to this dough and the enzymatic activity enhances the browning of the crust by creating simple sugars. This country- style dough is softer and stickier than most pizza and bread doughs,

INGREDIENT WEIGHT VOLUME SCALING

All-purpose flour	500 g	3'/о cups	100%
Poolish	312 g	1’/2 cups	62%
seethe next page
Water	200 g	200 mL/% cup	40%
Honey or agave syrup	48 g	21/2 Tbsp	10%
Salt	15 g	5 tsp	3%
Vital wheat gluten	10 g	2 Tbsp	2%
(Bob's Red Mill brand)
Active dry yeast	1g	'A tsp	0.2%

Neutral frying oil as needed

see page viii so it’s best to use a stand mixer. Ifyou must knead it by hand, lightly

flour your hands while handling it rather than stirring in more flour.

Shape the pizzas gently so as not to tear them.

PROCEDURE

® Mix in the bowl of a stand mixer with a dough hook until fully incorporated. For instructions on hand-kneading, see below.

® Letthe dough rest in the bowl forlO minutes at room temperature, and then mix again for5 minutes on medium speed. Ifthe dough does not pull away from the sides ofthe bowl, sprinkle in 1 tsp of flour, and resume mixing. Repeat as needed until the sides ofthe bowl are clean.

VARIATION: Whole Wheat Pizza Dough Rustic Pizza Dough can be made with many different flours. Otherflours

Substitute whole wheat flour for all-purpose flour to make a dense, chewy, may yield a slightly more complex flavor and a more elastic texture,

and wholesome variation.

OTHER USES FOR DOUGH Garlic Knots

Shape 15 g(walnut-size) pieces of dough into ropes, and tie them loosely into knots. Deep-fry the knots in 175 “C/350 °F neutral frying oil until golden brown, about 90 seconds, and drain. Alternatively, bake at 220 °C/430 °F until golden brown, 3-4 minutes. Brush the cooked knots with Garlic Oil (see variation on page 36), sprinkle with salt, and serve hot.

"Everything" Pretzels

Divide the dough into 45 g portions, roll into long ropes, and shape into pretzels. Place the pretzels on a lightly greased bakingsheet. Brush them lightly with beaten egg, and sprinklethem with a mixture of 20 g/3Tbsp of onion flakes,

10 g/V/4 tsp of black sesame seeds, 7 g/2 tsp of salt, 5 g/2 tsp of poppy seeds, and 5 g/1 Tbsp of garlic powder. Bake at 220 °C/425*F until golden brown, about 12 minutes.

Cinnamon-Sugar Doughnut Holes

Shape 10 g (grape-size) pieces of dough into balls. Deep-fry the balls in 175 “C/350 °F neutral frying oil until golden brown, about 90 seconds. Drain, and toss in cinnamon sugar made by mixinglOO g/]4 cup of sugar with 2 g/1 tsp of ground cinnamon. Serve hot.POOLISH

YIELD:

TIME ESTIMATE: STORAGE NOTES: LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY:

1.4 kg

24 hours overall, including 5 minutes of preparation and 24 hours unattended

keeps indefinitely with regular care and feeding

easy

Poolish is not a misspelling of polish or Polish. It is the French term for “prefermented dough sponge.” Similar in concept to a sourdough starter, poolish is a living organism, sometimes known as a “mother dough” or “pre-ferment.” Temperature and humidity determine the rate at which poolish develops its flavor and aroma. This recipe will make a little more than you need for our Rustic Pizza Dough recipe on the previous page, but with regular care and feeding, the poolish can be kept alive for years. You can use it to make breads and pastries as well as pizza crusts. Don’t omit the whole wheat flour; its nutrients help the poolish thrive.

INGREDIENT	WEIGHT	VOLUME	SCALING	PROCEDURE
Water	875 g	875 mL/3³A cups	350%	© Mix all thoroughly.
Bread flour	250 g	VA cups	100%	© Place in a deep container, filling to no more than one-quarterfull to
Whole wheat flour	250 g	VA cups	100%	allow for rising, and cover it.
Active dry yeast	lg	}'A tsp	0.4%	© Store the covered container in a dark place at 15-21 °C/60-70°F. © Check the next day for flavor and aroma. It should be bubbly and smell sweet and yeasty, with light sour notes. Stir before using.

Mix the flours, water, and yeast thoroughly.

O Place in a container large enough to allow “ the mixture to expand to four or five times its starting size as it rises, and cover it.

O Store the container in a dark area, such as a kitchen cabinet, where the temperature will remain within the range 15-21 °C/ 60-70 °F. Cooler temperatures slow fermentation; warmertemperatures can accelerate fermentation so much thatthe yeast dies.

A Check the appearance, flavor, and aroma

■ ofthe poolish after 24 hours. It should look bubbly, taste slightly sour, and smell sweet and yeasty, slightly like alcohol. Stir before using, and see the note below for instructions on how to care for the poolish

Care and feeding of poolish

To keep the poolish alive, you must feed it every other day for the first two weeks after you build it. Do not refrigerate it duringthis period. To feed the poolish, remove half of it, weigh that portion, and then either discard it or use it for baking.

Next, whisk equal weights of water and flour into the poolish remaining in the container; the total weight ofthe water and flour should equal the weight ofthe poolish you removed. Cover it until the next feeding.

After two weeks, refrigerate the poolish, which will cause the yeastto go dormant. Now you need to feed it only once a week. After each feeding, let the poolish sit out for a few hours before covering it and returning it to the refrigerator.

Starters

Sourdough starters are a form of poolish that are inoculated with both yeast and bacteria (usually lactobacilli) that produce lactic acid and, with it, the characteristic sour taste of sourdough. Sourdough poolish must be started from a culture. You can order many kinds of starter cultures from Sourdough International (www.sourdo.com).850 g (enough forfour 30-35 cm/12-14 in pizzas)

YIELD:

TIME ESTIMATE:

STORAGE NOTES:

LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS:

llVi hours overall', including 30 minutes of preparation and 17 hours unattended

keeps for 3 days when refrigerated or up to 3 months when frozen

moderate

vital wheat gluten

This pizza crust is light and fluffy, flavorful, and easy to make. The dough is based on Jim Lahey’s recipe for No-Knead Country Bread. Folding the dough may at first seem like a variation on kneading, but it is much gentler. Never press or work the dough, or you will squeeze out the bubbles; just fold, let rest, and repeat.

INGREDIENT	WEIGHT	VOLUME	SCALING	PROCEDURE
All-purpose flour	500 g	316 cups	100%	© Mix in a large bowl.
Salt	10g	2Vi tsp	2%
Vital wheat gluten (Bob’s Red Mill brand)	⁵g	1 Tbsp	1%
Active dry yeast	1-5 g	’/2 tsp	0.3%
Water	375 g	375 mL/1⁵/s cups	75%	© Add to the dry ingredients, and stir to combine. © Coverthe bowl with a clean, dry dish towel, and let the dough rest In awarm place (21-27”C/70-80°F)for16-48 hours. © Scrape the dough onto a well-floured work surface. © Fold the dough in half gently several times, without pressing or squeezing, and continue folding until it becomes so springy and elastic that it no longer folds easily. Let the dough rest fori minute. Repeat for a total of eight folds in 5 minutes. © Cut the dough into four chunks of200 g each. Stretch and roll each piece into a smooth, round ball.
Neutral-tasting oil	as needed			© Coat the balls lightly with oil, cover them with plastic wrap, and let them rest at room temperature fori hour before using.

Developing flavors

If you allow the dough to ferment for 48 hours or longer, more complex yeast and sourdough flavors will develop, similar to what you would get with a poolish (see the previous page).

HOWTO Knead Dough by Hand —

If you don't own a stand mixer, you can still make pizza! Here are simple instructions for properly kneading dough by hand, which can be used when making any of our recipes for pizza dough.

Knead the dough by hand for 7-8 minutes. Work on a cool steel or marble surface, if possible. The dough will stick to your hands, but try not to add extra flour. To release dough from your hands when you have finished kneading, rub your hands with flour.

Mix the ingredients in a bowl until fully incorporated. Use a wooden spoon.

O Let the dough restforlO minutes, and knead it again for 7-8 minutes. It should feel springy and smooth. If it is still sticky, sprinkle in a teaspoon of flour, and incorporate fully. Continue with steps 4-7,

If you find the dough is stlckingto your hands and becomes unworkable, fold the dough with one hand, and use a dough scraper in the other.You can build a great pizza if you master three crucial elements: the dough, the toppings, and the baking. Stretching out pizza dough is a delicate art that rewards patience and practice. Topping a pizza is all about balance: finding that ideal ratio of dough to toppings that allows

the pizza to cook through quickly and evenly, producing a combination of crisp and chewy textures. Baking a pizza well requires the righttools— a very hot and stable oven and baking surface, a pizza peel ofthe right size—and a keen sense of timing.

Remove the pizza dough from the refrigerator, cover it, and let it warm for an hour to room temperature. If the dough was frozen, first defrost it in the refrigerator overnight. Covering the dough keeps the surface from drying out and forming a crust.

While the dough is warming, prepare a bakingsurface (see page 301 in the main volume for options). Set the oven temperature as high as it will go; 260 “C/500 °F is a minimum.

Stretch and flatten the dough on a floured work surface by using your fingers to press the middle ofthe dough flat, and then work the dough outward. Leave a narrow ridge at the perimeter.

Dusta pizza peel (ora bakingsheet) with a light, even dusting of flour. Tap the side ofthe peel on the countertop to knock off any excess flour. If the cooked pizza crust tastes like burnt flour, the peel was overfloured. If the pizza crust sticks, you probably used too little flour.

Drape the dough overthe back of your hand, and then rotate it slowly. The weight ofthe dough should gently stretch it to a circular shape and even thickness, 30-35 cm/12-14 in. in diameter. Small blisters and bubbles should form in the dough. These are good!

Place the dough onto a pizza peel. Jerk the peel sharply back and forth; this prevents the dough from stickingto the peel.

7 Spread the sauce evenly overthe dough, but leave the outermost

* 2.5 cm/1 in ofthe perimeter dry.

Sprinkle grated cheese evenly overthe sauce.

To avoid losing heat from the oven, slide the pizza from the peel onto the bakingsurface as quickly as possible.

"I Cook the pizza until the crust turns brown and blisters, 3-5 minutes.

* Some ofthe larger bubbles should look almost burnt.

~t "I Remove the pizza from the oven by using the pizza peel or baking sheet, and slide it on a cooling rack. This keeps the crust crisp.

"I Season the pie with fresh basil, chili flakes, salt, and olive oil. Don't

* forget to season the very edge ofthe crust, and give it a little drizzle of oil, too. Serve the pizza immediately.

CLASSIC PIZZA VARIATIONS Napolitana Pizza

Pizza Sauce	65 g	'/4 cup
see variation on page 32
Mozzarella cheese, grated	125 g	~\^S/& CUpS
Roasted red pepper,	30 g	Va cup
sliced
Olives, sliced	25 g	2 Tbsp
White anchovy fillets	20 g	7-9 fillets
Pecorino Romano, shaved	15 g	'A cup
Mint leaves	3g	1 Tbsp
Follow steps 1-8. Add the peppers and olives,

and continue with step 9. Garnish the baked pizza with the anchovies, Pecorino Romano, and torn mint leaves, and serve it immediately.

Funghi Pizza

Pizza Sauce 65 g % cup

see variation on page 32

Mozzarella cheese, grated 125 g 1⁵/a cups Wild mushrooms 125 g ³A cup

(such as chanterelles, yellow foot, maitake, orporcinis), sauteed

Follow steps 1-8. Add the sauteed wild mushrooms. (If using black trumpet mushrooms, add them raw rather than sauteed.) Continue with step 9.

Hawaiian Pizza

Pineapple Marinara 100 g ⁵/scup

Sauce

see variation on page 32

Mozzarella cheese, grated 125 g lineups Culatello or prosciutto, 50 g 3-5 slices thinly sliced

Follow steps 1-11. Garnish the baked pizza with the culatello or prosciutto, and serve it immediately.

A well-cooked pizza has scorched blisters on the bottom ofthe crust- although pizza can also be delicious without a blistered crust. Ifyou don't see any blisters, your cooking surface is not hot enough. You can try using a metal plate, as described on page 301 in the main volume. Also see page 34 in the main volume for a guide to ovens and baking equipment.PIZZA MARGHERITA

YIELD:

TIME ESTIMATE: STORAGE NOTES:

LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS:

one 30-35 cm/12-14 in pizza

15 minutes overall (not including preheating time)

serve immediately

advanced (equipment)

steel plate 12 mm/Vi in thick, pizza peel

This is a great basic pizza. The variations you can create are endless, but don’t go overboard with your toppings: more than 150-200 g of toppings can render the crust wet and doughy. Many people put too much sauce or cheese on a margherita pizza, so it quickly gets soggy. You can vacuum-dry buffalo mozzarella (see photos on page 304 in

the main volume) or use packaged, shredded mozzarella instead. Another approach is to add burrata or another wet mozzarella cheese to the pizza after you take it out of the oven. For an illustrated guide to making pizzas, see the previous pages.PROCEDURE

SCALING

INGREDIENT

WEIGHT VOLUME

Pizza dough

see pages 136,137, and 139

200 g

1 ball

100%

© Stretch and flatten the dough on a floured work surface. Press the middle ofthe dough flat with your fingertips, and work the dough outward, leaving a narrow ridge at the perimeter. Stretch it overthe back of your hand into a circle 30-35 cm/12-14 in. in diameter.

Pizza Sauce

see variation on page 32

Vacuum-dried buffalo mozzarella cheese, torn into pieces, orshredded mozzarella

80 g 80 g

5'/2Tbsp VA cups

40%

Fresh basil leaves, torn

Chili flakes

Salt

Extra-virgin olive oil

to taste to taste to taste

7-8 leaves

For pizza topping ideas, see Classic Pizza Variations on the previous page and Pizza Toppings on page 143.OVEN-FRIED PIZZA

YIELD:

TIME ESTIMATE:

STORAGE NOTES:

LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS:

one 30-35 cm/12-14 in pizza

IS minutes overall (not including preheating time)

serve immediately

advanced (handling)

large cast-iron skillet, pizza peelWEIGHT VOLUME

SCALING

200 g 1 ball of dough

no more than 175 g total

100%

Old Forge, Pennsylvania, is a coal-mining town known for its unusual style of pizza, which is rectangular and fried in oil for a crispy crust. Our oven-fried pizza is not the true Old Forge style created by the Ghigiarelli family, but it is inspired by the original. Frying the pizza

INGREDIENT

Pizza dough see pages 136,137, and 139

Sauce, cheese, and toppings seethe next page

Bring the pizza dough to room temperature.

Preheat the oven to its highest setting, a minimum of260°C/500°Ffor at least 1 hour.

Stretch and flatten the pizza dough on a floured work surface. Press the middle ofthe dough flat with your fingertips, and work the dough outward, leaving a narrow ridge at the perimeter (see page 140). Stretch the dough over the back of your hand until it is the diameter of your cast-iron skillet.

Place the dough onto a lightly floured pizza peel. Top evenly with sauce, cheese, and desired toppings. When finished, give the peel a quick jerk to make sure it is not sticking to the crust. If it is, blow air underneath the crust, and add flourto the peel.

creates a crust with a completely different flavor than you find on a baked pizza. When done properly, most of the oil stays in the pan and does not make the pizza greasy. Don’t overload the pizzas with toppings, or they won’t cook evenly.

PROCEDURE

Cut a small X into the center.

Neutral frying oil

80 g

85 mL/y8 cup

40%

see page vni

® Slide the pizza carefully into the hot oil. Transfer the pan immediately into the hot oven, and cook until brown and bubbly, 3-4 minutes.

© Remove the pan from the oven. Lift the pizza onto a baking sheet lined with papertowels, let it drain, and then serve it immediately. To make additional pizzas, scoop out any bits from the oil or add fresh oil, and reheat the skillet until the oil starts to smoke.

VARIATION: Deep-Dish Fried Pizza

For a thicker, chewier pie that is closer to a crispy focaccia, double the quantity of dough, and increase the cooking time at step 8 to 7-8 minutes.PIZZA TOPPINGS

When adding toppings to a pizza, be judicious. Overdressing the pie can knock its flavors out of balance and make the dough soggy. Also take care to precook any ingredients that won’t cook fully during the short time the pizza bakes. You can use fresh ingredients as a garnish after the baking is done to add contrast in texture and temperature.

Season the finished pie just before serving with a drizzle of your best extra-virgin olive oil and a sprinkling of red pepper flakes and salt. The quantities listed here are scaled for a 30-35 cm / 12-14 in pizza. Steps and substitutions refer to the recipe for Pizza Margherita on page 141.

V* cup ³/s cup

1'/4 cups 8 leaves

Broccoli Raab Pizza

Broccoli raab (rapini)	50 g	Vi cup
Pressure-Cooked Garlic	50 g	3Tbsp
Confit, pureed
seepage 44
Ricotta cheese (goat's or	80 g	³/s Tbsp
cow's milk)
Chanterelle mushrooms,	65 g	% cup
sauteed
Lemon zest, grated	!g	1 tsp

Roast the broccoli raab atl90°C/375°F until it is lightly browned.

Follow steps 1-4, In steps 5 and 6, substitute garlic confit puree for the pizza sauce and ricottaforthe mozzarella. Top with sauteed chanterelles and roasted broccoli raab. Continue with step 7. Garnish the baked pizza with lemon zest, and serve it immediately.

Genovese Pizza

Pistachio Pesto 75 g

see page 22

Vacuum-dried buffalo 100 g

mozzarella cheese see photos on page 304 in the main volume

Brussels sprouts, shaved 65 g

Fresh basil leaves, torn 3 g

Cracked black pepper to taste

Follow steps 1-4. In step 5, substitute pistachio pesto forthe pizza sauce. In step 6, use100g/³/scup of vacuum-dried buffalo mozzarella. Top with the shaved Brussels sprouts, and continue with step 7. Garnish the baked pizza with the basil leaves and cracked black pepper, and serve it immediately.

Capicola Pizza

Pizza Sauce 80 g	5'/2 Tbsp
see variation on page 32
Vacuum-dried buffalo 100 g	Va cup
mozzarella cheese
see photos on page 304 In the main volume
Capicola (Coppa), 25 g	4-5 slices
thinly sliced
Arugula 35 g	1 cup
Green chilies, thinly sliced 10 g	lyi Tbsp
Follow steps 1-4. Add the pizza sauce and mozzarella, and then top with
the capicola, and continue with step 7. Garnish the baked pizza with the
arugula and green chilies, and serve it immediately.
Uovo Pizza
Brown butter 20 g	20 mL/T/2 Tbsp
see page 37
Pecorino Romano cheese, 35 g	% cup
grated
Sage leaves, julienned lg	4-5 leaves
Ground black pepper to taste
Quail eggs	5-7 eggs

Follow steps 1-4. Substitute brown butter for the pizza sauce in step 5 and Pecorino Romano forthe mozzarella in step 6. Top with sage and black pepper, and continue with step 7. When the crust is just set but not brown, remove the pizza from the oven, and top it with the raw quail eggs. Return the pie to the oven, and continue with step 8.

Finocchiona Pizza

Italian sausage with	100 g	Vi cup/1-2 links
fennel seed, cooked
Heavy cream	50 g	55 mL/V4 cup
Mozzarella cheese,	80 g	V/i cups
grated
Fennel, sliced and sauteed 33 g		³/acup
Leeks, sliced and sauteed	32 g	³/a cup

Follow steps 1-4. Crumble the cooked sausage into the cream, mix well, and substitute forthe pizza sauce in step 5. Top with the cheese, fennel, and leeks, and continue with step 7.

Pizza Cruda

Cherry tomatoes 50 g Vi cup

Prosciutto, thinly sliced 35 g 3 slices

and cut into ribbons

Arugula 35 g 1 cup

Parmesan cheese, shaved 30 g Vi cup

Follow steps 1-9. Garnish the baked pizza with the cherry tomatoes, prosciutto, arugula, and shaved Parmesan cheese, and serve it immediately.five servings (800 g/5 cups)

YIELD:

TIME ESTIMATE:

STORAGE NOTES:

LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS:

30 minutes overall

serve pasta immediately; cheese sauce keeps for 1 week when refrigerated or up to 2 months when frozen moderate sodium citrate

This recipe has been one of the most popular in Modernist Cuisine since that book appeared. Use it as a template to create your own version of a refined mac and cheese. There are so many potentially great cheese mixes and accompaniments that it was hard to pick just the six that we have space for here.

Elbow macaroni is the classic pasta for mac and cheese, but any kind of pasta works. Those varieties having a rough surface hold the sauce better. Although cheese lovers might be tempted to boost the sauce-to-pasta ratio, keep in mind that the sauce is very rich.

A little goes a long way.

INGREDIENT	WEIGHT	VOLUME	SCALING	PROCEDURE
Water or milk	265 g	265 ml/V/a cups	93%	© Combine in a pot, whisk to dissolve, and bring to a simmer over medium
Sodium citrate	H g		4%	heat.
White cheddarcheese, finely grated	285 g	4 cups	100%	© Add into the simmering liquid gradually, blending each addition with an immersion blender until melted and completely smooth.
Water	as needed for cooking the pasta			© Bring a large pot of water to a boil.
Dry macaroni	240 g	2 cups	84%	@ Boil until al dente according to the package directions, 5-6 minutes. © Drain. Do not rinse the pasta. © Stir in the warm cheese sauce, and fold in any accompaniments you wish to add (see the variations below).
Salt	to taste			© Season the mac and cheese, and serve it immediately.

(adapted from Harold McGee)

VARIATIONS

In the variations below, substitute the cheeses listed forthe white cheddar cheese at step 2, and fold in the additions listed at step 6.

Mac with Jack and Stilton

Cheeses: 200 g/3 cups of Jack and 50 g/ ’/3 cup of Stilton Fold in: roasted bell peppers and wilted baby spinach

Mac with Sharp Cheddar and Swiss

Cheeses: 200 g/3 cups of sharp cheddarand 85 g/1 cup of Swiss Fold in: chunks of roasted apple and crispy bacon bits

Mac with Gorgonzola and Fontina

Cheeses: 50 g/'/3 cup of Gorgonzola and 235 g/3 cups of young Fontina Fold in: walnuts and sauteed mushrooms

Mac and Gruyиre

Cheeses: 285 g/4 cups of Gruyиre

Fold in: roasted cauliflowerand roasted tomatoes

Mac with Goat Gouda and Cheddar

Cheeses: 142 g/2 cups of goat Gouda and 142 g/2 cups of goat cheddar Fold in: Pressure-Caramelized Onions (see page 45) and black olives

“I Whisk the sodium citrate into the water or milk in a pot until fully

* dissolved, and then bring to a simmer.

Add the finely grated cheese, one spoonful at a time, to the simmer- ing liquid on the stove top. Use an immersion blender to blend in each spoonful of cheese until the cheese has melted and becomes completely smooth. Set the cheese sauce aside while you cook the macaroni, or refrigerate it until you are ready to reheat it.

*3 Bring a large pot of water to a boil.

A Boil the macaroni until it is al dente, as instructed by the package directions, orfor 5-6 minutes.

^ Drain the pasta. Do not rinse it.

/T Stir the warm cheese sauce into the pasta. Fold in any flavor accom- ” paniments (see the variations at left for ideas).

^ Season the mac and cheese with salt to taste. Serve it immediately.

WHILE YOU'RE AT IT Broccoli with Cheese Sauce

Make a delicious side dish by substituting steamed broccoli forthe pasta. We cut the broccoli into bite-size pieces so that the florets are enveloped by the cheese sauce, just as pasta would be. Also try substituting cauliflower, steamed fingerllng potatoes, green beans, shelled edamame, sauteed button mushrooms, baby bok choy, or Brussels sprouts.

Fondue

At step 1, substitute 200 g/200 ml/⁷/» cup of water and 118 g/120 mL/

Vi cup of dry white wine forthe water. At step 2, whisk in the cheese rather than using a blender so that the fondue is appropriately stringy. Fora classic Swiss interpretation, use Emmental cheese, and add a dash of kirsch.PERFECTLY MELTING CHEESE SLICE

YIELD:

TIME ESTIMATE:

STORAGE NOTES:

LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS: USED IN:

500 g/12-14 slices

2i4 hours overall, including 15 minutes of preparation and 2 hours unattended keeps for 10 days when refrigerated or up to 2 months when frozen moderate sodium citrate

Modernist Cheeseburger (seepage 91), Grilled Cheese Sandwiches (seepage 150)

INGREDIENT

SCALING

By using sodium citrate, an emulsifying salt, you can make any cheese into slices that melt as perfectly as American-style sandwich cheese does. These slices are perfect for cheeseburgers, grilled

WEIGHT VOLUME

cheese sandwiches, vegetables, apple pie, or any other dish needing a melted cheese that doesn’t separate. You can either form the cheese into a thin sheet, or mold it into a cylinder or block for slicing later.

PROCEDURE

Cold wheat beer 115 g (or water)

Sodium citrate 14 g see page 71 in the main volume

115 mL/yi cup

57.5%

Gruyиre cheese, grated 200 g Sharp cheddar cheese, 180 g grated

3 cups 3 cups

100%

90%

© Add gradually to the simmering liquid. Use an immersion blender to blend in each addition until it has melted and is completely smooth, © Pour the liquid cheese mixture onto the warm baking sheet. Tip the sheet as needed to form an even layer. Alternatively, pour the cheese into a mold coated with cookingspray.

© Cover with plastic wrap, and refrigerate until fully set, at least 2 hours. © Cut into rounds orsquares 7.5 cm/3 in across. Place plastic wrap or parchment paper between the slices to prevent them from sticking together, and store refrigerated orfrozen.

We developed this cheese slice technique forthe Mushroom Swiss Burger recipe in Modernist Cuisine. In that version, we added a lot of additional liquid (beer!). We wanted the cheese to flow well, so we also added carra- geenan, a thickener extracted from seaweed, to adjust the viscosity ofthe cold cheese. Since then, however, we have discovered that the carrageenan Isn't necessary ifyou add less liquid, as we do here. The sodium citrate, on the other hand, is indispensable for preventing the cheese from separating when it melts.

SPECIAL SCALING FORTHE SODIUM CITRATE

Ifyou arescalingthe yield of this recipe up or down, you can calculate how much sodium citrate to use by weighing the liquid and the grated cheeses together, and multiplying by 2.8% ofthetotal weight. For example, when making 750 g of cheese slices, use 21 gof sodium citrate.five servings (900g/S cups)

YIELD:

TIME ESTIMATE:

STORAGE NOTES:

LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS:

45 minutes overall, including 30 minutes of preparation and 15 minutes unattended

keeps for 3 days when refrigerated before baking

moderate

sodium citrate, Cheese Crumble (seepage 149)

The key to excellent baked mac and cheese is to parcook (partially cook) the macaroni just long enough to ensure that it becomes tender rather than mushy during baking. The threshold between

undercooking and overcooking is incredibly fine. You can substitute any of the cheese combinations from the variations on page 144 for the cheese mixture here.

INGREDIENT	WEIGHT	VOLUME	SCALING	PROCEDURE
Water	as needed for cooking the pasta			© Place a metai baking sheet in the freezer for at least 30 minutes. © Preheat the oven to 260 °C/500°F. © Bringa large pot ofwaterto a boil.
Dry macaroni	200 g	iyi cups	44%	@ Parcook for 2¹/2 minutes. © Drain. Do not rinse the pasta. © Spread the macaroni immediately into a single layer on the cold baking sheet. Cool for 5 minutes, uncovered, and then measure 450 g/3V2 cups for use in step 11.
Water or milk	185 g	185 mL/³/4 cup	41%	© Combine in a pot, whisk until dissolved, and then bringto a simmer
Sodium citrate	13 g		3%	over medium heat.
Gruyere cheese, grated	200 g	3'/3 cups	44%	© Gradually add to the simmering liquid, usingan immersion blenderto
Cream cheese	85 g	'/3 cup	19%	blend each addition until it has melted and is completely smooth.
Sharp cheddar cheese, grated	65 g	Vi cup	14%	© Cool slightly; the cheese should remainfluid. Measure450g/2 cups ofthe cheese mixture for use in the next step.
Cheese mixture, from above	450 g	2 cups	100%	® Combine.
Dry mustard powder Cayenne pepper (optional)	0.5 g to taste	pinch	0.1%
Parcooked macaroni, from above Salt	450 g to taste	3'/2 cups	100%	@ Fold the reserved macaroni into the warm cheese mixture, and season it to taste. @ Divide the mixture evenly into five ramekins, or pour it into one large baking dish.
Cheese Crumble see page 149	100g	V/i cups	22%	© Sprinkle generously overthe mac and cheese. @ Bake until golden brown and bubbly, 13-15 minutes. Serve hot.

TO MAKE AHEAD

After cooling the macaroni in step 6, toss it in enough neutral-tasting oil to lightly coat the pasta, and refrigerate it until ready to use. The cheese sauce will keep fori week when refrigerated and for up to 2 months when frozen. The mac and cheese can be prepared through step 11, and then refrigerated for up to 3 days. Keep in mind that the pasta will continue to absorb moisture, so it will soften overtime. Do not top with the cheese crumble until just before baking. Baking the mac and cheese from the refrigerator will require an additional 10-12 minutes.1 Place a metal baking sheet in the freezer to chill for at least 30 minutes.

2 Preheat the oven to 260 “C/500 °F.

^ Bringa large pot ofwaterto a boil.

/| Parboil the macaroni for 2Vi minutes. Although the surface ofthe pasta

* will be cooked, the interior will still be raw and crunchy. The macaroni will finish cooking in the oven.

C Drain the cooked pasta, but do not rinse it. Proceed immediately to the next step.

/T Spread the pasta into a single layer on the chilled baking sheet, and allow it to cool, uncovered, for5 minutes. This technique efficiently cools the macaroni, but doesn't rinse any ofthe starch from its surface. When it has cooled, measure 450 g/3Vi cups ofthe pasta for use in step 11.

^ Whiskthe sodium citrate into the water or milk in a pot until it has

* dissolved, and then bringthe liquid to a simmer over medium heat.

CJ Add the cheeses into the liquid, one spoonful at a time, while the mixture simmers on the stove. Use an immersion blender to blend each spoonful until it has melted and becomes completely smooth.

Q Cool the cheese slightly—it should remain fluid-and then measure 450 g/2 cups for use in the next step.

10 Combine the spices with the measured cheese mixture.

“I “I Fold the measured macaroni into the warm cheese mixture, and

* 12

* season it with salt to taste.

Divide the mac and cheese evenly into five ramekins, or pour it into one large baking dish.

Sprinkle the cheese crumble generously overthe top of each serving.

Bake until the cheese turns golden brown and bubbly, 13-15 minutes. Place the dish in a baking pan to catch any bubbling sauce and prevent burning. Serve hot.five servings (750 g/4 cups)

YIELD:

TIME ESTIMATE:

STORAGE NOTES:

LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS:

PA hours overall, including 30 minutes of preparation and PA hours unattended serve immediately; cheese water keeps for 5 days when refrigerated or for up to

6 months when frozen moderate sous vide setup

The flavor compounds in cheese, much like those in tea leaves and coffee beans, dissolve in water. We take advantage of that fact by cooking pasta in cheese water, a technique that transfers flavor to the macaroni and allows us to make a delicate, refined dish that contains little fat yet retains much of the robust flavor of traditional mac and cheese.

We also add pureed cauliflower, which mimics the rich mouth- feel and color of cheese sauce but doesn’t weigh it down. It is easy to make cheese water, and once you’ve tasted it, you will probably want to make extra to keep on hand. It freezes well and makes a wonderful soup base. You can also use it as a broth for glazed spring vegetables or braised winter greens.

INGREDIENT	WEIGHT	VOLUME	SCALING	PROCEDURE
Water	150 g	150 mL/ya cup	30%	® Combine the cauliflower and water in a pot, and simmer until very
Cauliflower, thinly sliced	100g	Vh cups	20%	tender, about 30 minutes. © Drain. © Puree until smooth. © Sieve, and measure 75 g/Vi cup ofthe cauliflower puree for use in step 12.
Water	500 g	500 mL/2'/8 cups	100%	© Preheat a water bath to 80 “C/176 °F.
Jack cheese, finely grated	275 g	4 cups	55%	© Combine together in a large (4 L/1 gal) zip-top bag, remove as much air
Gruyиre cheese, finely grated	275 g	4 cups	55%	as possible from the bag (see page 6), and seal it. © Cooksous vide for 30 minutes. © Cool for 15 minutes at room temperature. © Strain through a fine sieve lined with cheesecloth to collect the liquid. Measure 500 g/500 mL/2V8 cups ofthe cheese water for use in the next step. (See note below on uses for cheese solids.)
Sugar	2g	Vi tsp	0.4%	© Combine with the cheese water in a medium pot, stir to dissolve, and bring to a boil over high heat.
Dry macaroni	180 g	VA cups	36%	© Stir into the boiling cheese water, and reduce the heat to medium. ® Cook until most ofthe cheese water has been absorbed and the macaroni is just al dente, about 7 minutes. Fold the reserved cauliflower puree into the mac and cheese.
Salt	to taste			© Season the mac and cheese, and serve it warm.

Mac and Cheddar

Cheese: 550 g/8 cups of sharp cheddar, finely grated Fold in: broccoli puree or cubes of roasted apples

VARIATIONS Mac and Fontina

Cheese: 550 g/6 cups of young Fontina, finely grated Fold in: Pressure-Caramelized Onions (see page 45) or 75 g of Mushroom Puree (see page 63)

Mac and Parmesan

Cheese: 550 g/9 cups of Parmesan, finely grated

Fold in: Creamed Spinach (see page 82) or thinly sliced sun-dried

tomatoes

WHILE YOU'RE AT IT: Cheese Crisps

The cheese solids left over after straining the cheese water In step 9 have lost some of their flavor, but they are very tasty when dried. Spread them on a baking sheet, and bake them at 175 °C/350 °F until they turn golden, about 45 minutes. Then break them up, and use them as a garnish for baked potatoes or green salads, as part of a savory cracker, or as a substitute for the cheese crumbs in step 9 of our recipe for Cheese Crumble (see the next page).10

"I Combine the cauliflower and water in a pot, and simmer until the

cauliflower becomes verytender, about30 minutes.

Drain the cauliflower.

^ Blend the cauliflower into a smooth puree.

A Pass the puree through a sieve, and measure 75 g/¹^ cup of it for use

■ in step 12.

C Preheat a water bath to 80 “C/176 "F.

Place a fine sieve lined with cheesecloth overabowl, andstrain the cheese-water mixture, collecting the cheese water in the bowl. Reserve 500g/500 mL/21/a cups ofthe cheese water for use in the next step. Store the remaining cheese water in the refrigerator or freezer for another use, and seethe note on the previous page for suggested ways to use the remaining cheese solids.

Combine the reserved cheese water and the sugar in a medium pot. Stir until the sugar dissolves, and then bring the mixture to a boil over high heat. A lot ofthe natural sweetness ofthe cheese was left behind in the cheese solids, so the pinch of sugar helps to round out the flavor.

Combine the cheeses and the water in a large (4 L/l gal) zip-top bag. Use the water-displacement method (see page 6) to remove as much air as possible from the bag, and seal it.

Cook the cheeses sous vide for 30 minutes. The end result should look a bit like curdled milk.

Stirthe dry macaroni into the cheese water, and reduce the heat to medium.

Cook the pasta until it has absorbed most ofthe cheese water and is just al dente, about 7 minutes. Fold the reserved cauliflower puree into the mac and cheese.8

Season the mac and cheese with salt to taste, and serve it warm.

Remove the bag from the bath, and let it cool for 15 minutes at room temperature.

CHEESE CRUMBLE

YIELD:

TIME ESTIMATE:

STORAGE NOTES:

LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS: USED IN:

250 g/2Vi cups

114 hours overall, including 25 minutes of preparation and SO minutes unattended

keeps for 2-3 days when refrigerated

moderate

food processor (optional), sodium citrate, tapioca starch Baked Mac and Cheese (seepage 146)

INGREDIENT	WEIGHT	VOLUME	SCALING	PROCEDURE
Water	60 g	60 mL/1k cup	30%	© Preheat the oven to 175 “C/350 °F.
Sodium citrate	2.5g		1.25%	© Combine in a pot, whisk until dissolved, and bringto a simmer.
Gruyиre cheese, finely grated	200 g	3 cups	100%	© Add gradually to the simmering liquid. Use an immersion blender to blend each addition until it is melted and completely smooth.
Tapioca starch	100g	⁷/s cup	50%	© Add, one-third atatime. Stirwell between additions to keep the mixture smooth and moist throughout. The mixture turns thick very quickly and resembles a dough when it is finished. © While the cheese mixture is still warm, scoop it onto a silicone mat, and use a rolling pin to roll it into a thin, even sheet. © Place the mat on a baking sheet, and bake until the cheese cracker is completely dry and golden brown, 45-50 minutes. © Cool the cheese cracker, and break it into pieces. © Grind the cheese cracker in a food processorto make fine crumbs. Alternatively, place pieces in a zip-top bag, and crush them with a rolling pin or mallet.
Gruyиre cheese, finely grated	40 g	⁵/e cup	20%	© Combine with the ground or crushed cheese crumbs. ® Store refrigerated.
Panko bread crumbs	20 g	2 Tbsp	10%

Top any au gratin dish with this cheese crumble: it goes well on scalloped potatoes, green bean casserole, and Apple Betty. You can substitute other firm or hard cheeses, such as cheddar or Parmesan, forthe Gruyere.

TO MAKE AHEAD

For extended storage, keep the ground cheese crumbles from step 8 in an airtight container. Mix them with the grated Gruyere and panko bread crumbs just before you use them.GRILLED CHEESE SANDWICHES

To make a great grilled cheese sandwich, generously spread butter on the exterior of the bread, assemble the sandwich, and panfry it over medium heat until the bread is golden brown and the cheese is fully melted, 2-3 minutes per side. We use a cast-iron skillet, but a countertop sandwich grill (or panini press) works well, too. The bread should not be so thick that it detracts from the filling, but it also needs to hold the sandwich together; we slice ours 1-1.5 cm / ³/s-^s/a in thick. To make the cheese slice recipes here,

use the instructions for the Perfectly Melting Cheese Slice on the previous page with the ingredients and quantities given below. You’ll notice that some combinations call for less than half the water of others; it may seem counterintuitive, but crumbly cheeses tend to bind better with less water. If you need to finish many sandwiches in one batch, toast the slices, assemble the sandwiches, and then bake them in the oven at 190 °C / 375 °F until the cheese melts. These recipes make four sandwiches.

Sourdough bread		8 slices	Baguette, split in half		4 segments
Aged White Cheddar		8 slices	and cut into segments
Cheese Slice			10 cm/4 in long
Honeycrisp apple,		8 slices	Goat Cheese Slice		8 slices
thinly sliced			Tomato Confit	120 g	I/2 cup
orCrilled Applesauce	120 g	'/2 cup	see page 46
without mustard			Pistachio Pesto	80 g	14 cup
see page 42			see page 22
Jalapenos, thinly sliced	30g	3Tbsp	Basil leaves		8-12 leaves
Aged White Cheddar Cheese Slice:			Coat Cheese Slice:
Water	115 g	115mL/y2Cup	Water	38 g	38 mL/
Sodium citrate	14 g				2Vi Tbsp
Aged white cheddar	380 g	6 cups	Sodium citrate	11g
cheese, grated		6 cups	Bыcheron goat cheese, rind cut off, crumbled	380 g	3 cups

Aged White Cheddar on Sourdough with Apples

Goat Cheese on Baguette with Tomato Confit and Basil

Stilton on Walnut Bread with Shallot Marmalade

8 slices 8 slices

V2 CUp

8 slices

'/3 cup

38mL/2'/2Tbsp

3'/2Tbsp

3 cups

l²/3 cups 35 mL/2 Tbsp 130 mL/yi cup 1 sprig

Shallot and Port Wine Marmalade:

Shallots, minced 200 g

Olive oil 30 g

Red port wine 130 g

Thyme

Sweat the shallots in olive oil. Add the port and thyme, and then simmer over medium-low heat until tender and jam-like, about 20 minutes. Season with saltto taste.

Camembert and Gruyere on Brioche with Ham and Mushrooms

Brioche		8 slices
Camembert and Gruyиre		8 slices
Cheese Slice
Black Forest ham		8 slices
Button mushrooms,	100g	¹/3 cup
sliced and sauteed
Dijon mustard	40 g	’/4 cup
Fried eggs		4 eggs
Camembert and Gruyиre Cheese Slice:
Water	115 g	115 mL/'/i cup
Sodium citrate	14 g
Camembert cheese,	190 g	V/2 cups
rind cutoff
Gruyиre cheese, grated	190 g	3'A cups
Feta on Potato Bread with Vegetable		Confit
Potato bread		8 slices
Feta Cheese Slice		8 slices
Mediterranean	120 g	V2 cup
Vegetable Confit
see variation on page 44
Basil		8-12 leaves
Feta Cheese Slice:
Water	38g	38 mL/
		2'h Tbsp
Sodium citrate	^1]g
Feta cheese, crumbled	380 g	3 cups

Walnut bread

Stilton Cheese Slice

Shallot and Port Wine 120g

Marmalade

Pear, thinly sliced

Celery, peeled and 40 g

thinly sliced

Stilton Cheese Slice:

Water 38 g

Wondra 26 g

Sodium citrate 11 g

Stilton cheese, crumbled 380 g

HOW TO Pressure-Cook Risotto and Paella

Cooking Times

Ifyou don't have a pressure cooker, you can cook the risotto, paella, or other grain stew the traditional way. Use the times in the table below and the flavor ideas on pages 154-155 as guidelines. Batches that are larger than those in our recipes will take longerto cook.

Cook on the Pressure-cook stove top

(min) (min)

Sautй the aromatic ingredients in oil or butter. Risotto and paella rices are typically cooked in a base of sauteed aromatics. In the case of risotto, classic partners are minced onion, fennel, and celery; for paella, the usual aromatic base is sofrito, a combination of minced bell pepper, seeded tomato, and onion.

Add the rice to the sautй- ing aromatics, and toast it over medium-high heat for

1- 2 minutes. The grains should become shiny, golden, and slightly translucent.

Add a cooking liquid— typically stock for paella and a combination of wine and stock for risotto. You can instead cook the rice in water, or get creative and try combinations of vegetable juices, fruit juices, and wine or other kinds of alcohol. Whole grains require more liquid than hulled and polished grains do.

Pressure-cook the rice in liquid at a gauge pressure ofl bar/15 psi until it is just al dente; see the table at right for cooking times. Begintimingassoon as the cooker reaches full pressure.

Depressurize the cooker quickly by runningtepid water over the rim.

Check the rice for doneness. It should be nearly cooked to a perfect al dente. You may need to add more liquid, as directed in the recipes, or tosimmeritforl-3 minutes more.

Season the rice with salt.

Finish risotto dishes with butter and freshly grated cheese, or fold in cooked vegetables, vegetable purees, orfresh herbs. Forpaellas, chefs usually focus on the broth and garnishes. In traditional Valencia-style paella, for example, rabbit and snails are added. Modern versions often emphasize various kinds of fresh shellfish.

HOWTO Parcook and Finish Risotto and Paella

"I While sauteingthe aromatic

* ingredients as described in step 1 above, freeze a metal baking sheet (or several, ifyou are making a large batch) for use in step 5.

^ Add the rice, and toast it with the sauteed aromatics until it turns shiny, golden, and nearly translucent.

O Add liquid, and parcook for ^ the time indicated in the table at right, stirring frequently. Alternatively, parcook in a pressure cooker at a gauge pressure ofl bar/15 psi, for the time indicated in the table, and then quickly depressurize the cooker by running tepid water over the rim.

/\ Working quickly, strain the

■ liquid from the parcooked grain, and reserve it for use in step 6.

Transferthe drained rice to the frozen baking sheet, and spread it into athin layerto cool. Cover, and refrigerate the rice until you are ready to serve it.

Just before serving, finish cooking the grain by stirring in the reserved liquid and simmering it in a pot until it becomes al dente. You may need to add a little more liquid.

Fold in any additional flavorings, season, and serve. The additions can be as simple as a bit of grated cheese and butteroras complex as vegetable purees and braised meats.

bomba rice	7	22
forbidden rice	12	25
risotto rices (Arborio, Vialone Nano, carnaroli)	6	18-20
short-grain Japanese rice	4	13-15
farro	15	22-25
pearl barley	20	28-30
quinoa	4	15-18
steel-cut oats, rinsed	7	12-15

Safety tipsfor pressure-cooking: see page 5

Parcooking Times

You can parcook rice and grains, and then refrigerate them for up to

3 days before finishing and serving. Use the times in the table below for parcooking in a pressure cooker or on the stove stop. When you are ready to finish the dish, simmer it as described in step 6 above for

2- 5 minutes as a rule of thumb.

bomba rice	4	8
forbidden rice	7	17
risotto rices (Arborio, Vialone Nano, carnaroli)	3	6
short-grain Japanese rice	2 Vt	4
farro	10	20-22
pearl barley	12	25
quinoa	2	7
steel-cut oats, rinsed	5	7
	Safety tips for pressure-cooking: see page 5

In a pressure cooker (min)

On the stove top (min)

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