Ancient Egypt, Greece and Rome

Ancient Greek dress was more voluminous than that of the Egyptians, and was most often made of fine woollens, although it is thought that the Greeks also had regular access to linen, hemp cloth and silk. The primary garment of Ancient Greek clothing was the Chiton, an all-over body garment made from a large rectangle of cloth wrapped once around the body from right side to right side.  This garment was then pinned at the shoulders and tied at the waist or hips, and draped in hanging folds about the body. Young men generally wore short chitons, and older men and women longer ones.  Older men also often are depicted wearing long draped mantles either alone or over a chiton . A smaller rectangle worn over one shoulder by travellers and young men was called a Chalmys.

  Women's Chitons were draped in a variety of ways, and were also worn with mantles. Greek fabric was far more elaborate than the Egyptians, and included complex border designs both woven in and embroidered. Greek Jewellery, although less prominent than Egyptian jewellery, was exceedingly complex and finely made. 

Like Egyptian dress, Greek clothing was centred in an aesthetic that idealized the human body, rather than attempting to conceal it's natural shape. The Greeks made many clothing decisions based on this aesthetic that were less than practical choices: Pinning garments closed instead of stitching, rarely wearing sandals or shoes despite a rocky landscape, draping garments around the body for warmth during cold instead of making garments with sleeves or trousers as their near neighbours the Phrygians (see at right) did. The Greeks definitely knew how to make sleeves, for their theatrical costumes had them, but for normal wear sleeves were judged less aesthetic than bare arms and so were not worn. Greek jewellery was also an object of much technical concentration, so much so that Western jewellery technique has only caught up to it since the Industrial Revolution.

Roman dress at first glance appears to be identical to Greek dress in it's draperies and design. Closer inspection, however, reveals many important changes. First, the basic garments are sewn, not pinned, and close on both sides. Second, elaborate fabric decoration nearly disappears, and bold patterns on garments are nonexistent. Sandals, boots and shoes are common, virtually all men wear them, and many women.  Jewellery becomes so simple in design and execution it looks crude, even without the comparison of the fine Greek work standing in contrast to it.

Contrary to the views engendered by sensational fiction such as Bulwer Lytton's "Last Days of Pompeii" or the wondrous silliness of "Gladiator Movies", Romans were, by and large, the kind of practical, upright, uptight folks who believed in civil service, interstate highways, and customs duties. Their clothing included the Tunica (which is, as you have already guessed, a simple t-tunic), the Stola (the female version of the same thing), the Toga (a extra long half-circle wool mantle worn by male citizens) and the Palla, a large, long (8 yard) drape or scarf worn by women outdoors.

 Sartorial decadence, such as it was, centered around women's hairstyles which changed fashion regularly and were often elaborately silly. 

Dress in the Eastern Empire, later to be called Byzantium by the West, (although properly called Romania at the time) was directly taken from the later Roman Empire.  Strictly speaking Byzantium/Romania was the late Roman Empire, although it's capital was Constantinople, and it's religion predominantly Christian.  The Eastern Empire continued in the Roman tradition until it was shrunk into the space of little more than Constantinople and the southern tip of Greece by successive wars with the Ottoman Turks and Western Christian countries.  In 1460 the last vestige of the Eastern Empire was swallowed up into the Ottoman Empire.  

Late Roman and "Byzantine" dress is more body covering than earlier Roman costume, usually including long sleeves and long hems. This is generally assumed to be a reaction to the growing Christian view that the body was not beautiful, but a pit of vice.  When the tunica is shorter (only on men) the lower limbs are encased in trousers, a "barbarian" invention first adopted by the Roman army and lower classes, and eventually (after some aristocratic resistance) by all men.  The toga remained for emperors and other high officials in this period, but in vestigial form as a long thin (about 6") strip wrapped round the torso in the traditional manner. 

Long half circle capes were part of male court dress, worn in place of the old toga over the new long sleeved tunica.  The most notable feature of the Eastern Empire's dress is it's surface decoration.  Unlike the earlier period which left fabric largely undecorated, the people of the Byzantine/Romanian Empire used all manner of woven, embroidered and beaded surface embellishment, particularly on Church vestments and court dress.  This style of decoration and many of the garment shapes have survived to this day in the priestly vestments of Orthodox churches in Greece, Eastern Europe and Russia.

Contemporary with the first part of the Eastern Empire's rule in the western Mediterranean, Western Europe was going through the period known as the "Dark Ages". One rather pithy scholar pretty well summed up the era (400-900ce) as "five hundred years of camping out". Warfare was pretty constant, commerce pretty nearly dead, and stable social and educational institutions almost non-existent.

Few records survive of dress in this period, although there is some rather spectacular jewellery in the style commonly called Celtic which has mainly been found in archaeological sites in the British Isles and the Nordic countries.  Like the Eastern Empire the dress of Western Europe seems to have consisted of the long sleeved tunic, half circle capes, & trousers.  Western men are more often depicted in the short tunic and trouser combination than in long tunics. Shoes and boots were also worn in place of sandals.

It has been suggested that the reason that clothing became longer, heavier and more fitted in this era is that the world weather pattern shifted at that time to make Europe the much colder continent it is now. (In Roman times the weather was so warm in Northern Europe that they had successful vineyards in England, far north of where it is possible to grow them now).

Another clothing variation popular in Europe was the wearing of a short tunic over a longer fuller one.  This was done by persons of both sexes.  The over tunic was often heavily embroidered in a manner similar to the Byzantine style.

Women's dress was often similar to the style mentioned above, or simply consisted of a long tunic with a tighter fitting sleeved one beneath.  Married women, with the exception of queens, generally veiled their hair, but this was not a hard and fast rule.

In 800ce Charles the Great was crowned "Holy Roman Emperor" by the Pope in Rome, thus setting up a smaller, rival empire in the West to Romania/Byzantium.  In this period (known now as Carolinian) the shape of the old tunic was changed by widening at the bottom.  Eventually the lower part of the garment (now more often referred to as a gown) was cut like a full skirt.

By the 1000-1200 AD period known as "Early Gothic" (another name intended as a pejorative provided by people at a much later date) the usual cut of the gown (and shorter over tunics) was pretty usually with the wide or circular bottom.  Sleeves on the over gowns and/or tunics get wider (especially on women's dress) and there is an overall fashion for conspicuous consumption of fabric.

There had been a pretty popular belief in Western Europe in the years leading up to the first Millennium, that the Christian Second Coming, End of the World, and Judgment Day would happen in the year 1000.  This did not really encourage people to build earthly cities for the future or spend time or cash on worldly matters.  So material culture, including dress, was pretty limited in it's ostentation before this date.  When the world did not end, people in the centuries that followed became more sanguine that The End was not Near, and began displaying more interest in frivolous worldly matters such as dressing better than one's neighbours. This is partly why conspicuous consumption of fine fabric suddenly became popular.

Fabric production also became much easier in this era through the invention of two labour-saving devices:  The spinning wheel and the horizontal loom which increased both fabric quality and production nearly tenfold. 

When the Pope encouraged the various warring Christian kings of Western Europe to go to the Holy Land to fight the rising kingdoms of Islam, the "Crusaders" had a chance to see civilized people (the Byzantines and Moslems) some of whom dressed in silks daily.  Europeans instantly coveted these things to such a degree that they happily sacked and pillaged from the Byzantines (who were in theory the allies they had been sent to help) as much as from the Saracens and Turks.

By the 12th-13th Centuries they had pillaged the technology from the East to make velvet, and Western clothing became more extravagant with each generation.

Конец формы

COTTON is a cool, soft, comfortable, the principal clothing fibre of the world. Its production is one of the major factors in world prosperity and economic stability. Cotton "breathes". What would we do without cotton? Since cotton wrinkles, polyester was added to give it wash and wear properties for a busy world. In recent times, the consumer determined that polyester, although easier to care for, took away the cool from cotton and also added a "pilling" effect to cotton/polyester blends. Consumers now often request "100% Cotton". Permanent finishes also added to the all cotton fabric gave a wash and wear property to cotton. The cotton fibre is from the cotton plant’s seed pod. The fibre is hollow in the centre and, under a microscope looks like a twisted ribbon. "Absorbent" cotton will retain 24-27 times its own weight in water and is stronger when wet than dry. This fibre absorbs and releases perspiration quickly, thus allowing the fabric to "breathe". Cotton can stand high temperatures and takes dyes easily. Chlorine bleach can be used to restore white garments to a clear white but this bleach may yellow chemically finished cottons or remove colour in dyed cottons. Boiling and sterilizing temperatures can also be used on cotton without disintegration. Cotton can also be ironed at relatively high temperatures, stands up to abrasion and wears well.

Mercerized cotton is treated to permanently straighten the cotton fibres which then become smooth, rod-like fibres that is uniform in appearance with a high lustre. Cotton is often blended with other fibres such as polyester, linen, wool, to "blend" the best properties of each fibre.

Muslin is a sheer to coarse plain woven cotton fabric. Muslin comes in "natural" colour or is dyed.

Organdie is a very thin, transparent cotton with a crisp finish.

Outing flannel is a soft, twill or plain weave fabric napped on both sides. Used for baby clothes, diapers, and sleepwear.

Oxford is shirting fabric with a lustrous, soft finish. It is characterized with narrow stripes and can be woven in plain or basket weave. Also a term used for wool fabric that has black and white fibres.

Percale is a light weight, closely woven, sturdy fabric that can be found printed in dark colours.

Pima Cotton, from Egyptian cotton, is an excellent quality cotton fabric.

Polished Cotton is either a satin weave cotton or a plain weave cotton that is finished chemically to appear shiny.

Poplin is a plain weave fabric with a cross-wise rib.

Sailcloth is a very strong, heavy canvas or duck made in plain weave.

Sateen is a satin weave cotton fabric.

Seersucker is a lightweight cotton fabric crinkled into lengthwise stripes.

Swiss is a sheer, very fine cotton that can be plain or decorated with dots or other designs.

Terry Cloth is a looped pile fabric that is either woven or knitted. It is very absorbent and used for towels, etc. French terry cloth is looped on one side and sheared pile on the other.

Velveteen is an all cotton pile fabric with short pile resembling velvet.

Whipcord is a strong fabric with a diagonal round cords that can also be produced in wool.

Hemp, Ramie, Jute

HEMP is currently being used by designers in clothing. When thinking of hemp, the illegal plant, marijuana comes to mind. No, hemp fabric does not contain the narcotic chemical that, when smoked produces the "high" that smoking marijuana produces. Marijuana is from the dried flowers and leaves of the Cannabis Sativa plant. Hemp fabric is made from the stems of the plant. The stems are processed to dissolve the gum or pectin and separate the fibres which are then processed again and woven into yarns and fabric. The finest hemp for fabric is produced in Italy. Hemp fabric is like linen in both hand and appearance. Hemp fabric withstands water better than any other textile product. It wrinkles easily and should not be creased excessively to avoid wear and breakage of the fibres.

RAMIE is also similar to linen and is a bast of plant fibre. It is natural white in colour, has a high lustre and an unusual resistance to bacteria and molds. Used in fabrics, and often mistaken for linen, it is extremely absorbent and dries quickly. Ramie has excellent abrasion resistance and has been tested to be three to five times stronger than cotton and twice as strong as flax. It is an inexpensive fibre from an East Asian plant and can be spun or woven into a fabric.

JUTE is a glossy fibre from a plant. It is seen most often in sacks, rope, twine, and as backing on carpeting.

LINEN is an elegant, beautiful, durable, the refined luxury fabric. Linen is the strongest of the vegetable fibres and has 2 to 3 times the strength of cotton. Linen table cloths and napkins have been handed down generation to generation. Not only is the linen fibre strong, it is smooth, making the finished fabric lint free. Fine china, silver and candles are enhanced by the lustre of linen which only gets softer and finer the more it is washed.

Linen is from flax, a bast fibre taken from the stalk of the plant. The lustre is from the natural wax content. Creamy white to light tan, this fibre can be easily dyed and the colour does not fade when washed. Linen does wrinkle easily but also presses easily. Linen, like cotton, can also be boiled without damaging the fibre.

Highly absorbent and a good conductor of heat, this fabric is cool in garments. However, constant creasing in the same place in sharp folds will tend to break the linen threads. This wear can show up in collars, hems, and any area that is iron creased during the laundering. Linen has poor elasticity and does not spring back readily.

Butcher’s Linen was originally a heavy, sturdy linen fabric used for French butchers’ aprons. This type of heavy fabric was also used for interfacing.

Damask, a jacquard weave, is a reversible rich weave, patterned in satin or plain weave.

Venise is a very fine damask table linen consisting of large floral patterns. 

SILK is the fabric that makes its own statement. Say "silk" to someone and what do they visualize? No other fabric generates quite the same reaction. For centuries silk has had a reputation as a luxurious and sensuous fabric, one associated with wealth and success. Silk is one of the oldest textile fibres known to man. It has been used by the Chinese since the 27th century BC. Silk is mentioned by Aristotle and became a valuable commodity both in Greece and Rome. During the Roman Empire, silk was sold for its weight in gold.

Today, silk is yet another word for elegance, and silk garments are prized for their versatility, wearability and comfort. Silk, or soie in French, is the strongest natural fibre. A steel filament of the same diameter as silk will break before a filament of silk. Silk absorbs moisture, which makes it cool in the summer and warm in the winter. Because of its high absorbency, it is easily dyed in many deep colours. Silk retains its shape, drapes well, caresses the figure, and shimmers with lustre all its own.

Contemporary silk garments range from evening wear to sports wear. A silk suit can go to the office and, with a change of accessories and a blouse, transform into an elegant dinner ensemble. Silk garments can be worn for all seasons.

Silk is elegant, versatile and washable. In the past, owning a silk garment meant not only the initial price of the garment but also the cost of dry cleaning. All silk is washable. Silk is a natural protein fibre, like human hair, taken from the cocoon of the silkworm. The natural glue, sericin, secreted by silkworms and not totally removed during manufacturing of the silk, is a natural sizing which is brought out when washing in warm water. Most silk fabrics can be hand washed. Technically, silk does not shrink like other fibres.  If the fabric is not tightly woven, washing a silk with tighten up the weave.... thus, lighter weights of silk (say a crepe de chine of 14 mm) can be improved by washing as it will tighten up the weave.  A tightly woven silk will not "shrink" or will "shrink" a lot less. Silk garments, however, can shrink if the fabric has not been washed prior to garment construction. When washing silk, do not wring but roll in a towel. Silk dries quickly but should not be put in an automatic dryer unless the fabric is dried in an automatic dryer prior to garment construction. A good shampoo works well on silk. It will remove oil and revitalize your silk. Do not use an alkaline shampoo or one which contains ingredients such as wax, petroleum, or their derivatives, as these products will leave a residue on your silk and may cause "oil" spots. If static or clinging is a problem with your silks, a good hair conditioner (see above cautions) may be used in the rinse water.

Silk may yellow and fade with the use of a high iron setting. Press cloths and a steam iron are recommended. Silk is also weakened by sunlight and perspiration.

Noil is sportier in appearance and created by short fibres, often from the innermost part of the cocoon. Has the look of hopsack but much softer.

Organza is similar to cotton organdie except it is made with silk and is transparent.

Peau de Soie is a stout, soft silk with fine cross ribs and looks slightly corded. It is also called paduasoy.

Pongee is a plain woven, thin, naturally tan fabric that has a rough weave effect.

Silk Shantung is a dupionni type of silk that comes from the Shantung Prov. of China.

Silk Broadcloth is a plain weave silk in various weights; crisper than china silk. It is often used in shirting.

Silk linen has a nubby yarn in a plain weave. Weights range from light to heavy. It is different from Dupion in that the nubby runs both lengthwise and crosswise.

Silk satin is a satin weave with a plain back.

Tussah silk (tussah means wild) is a plain weave silk fabric from "wild" silk worms. It has irregular thick and thin yarns creating uneven surface and colour. Wild silkworms feed on leaves other than mulberry leaves. Tussah silk is similar to shantung, with silk from the wild. Colour is often uneven; usually referred to as "raw" silk.

Silk is also available in other weaves such as velvet and corduroy.

Brocade is a jacquard weave with an embossed effect and contrasting surfaces. It can also be woven with synthetic or man-made fibres.

Canton Crepe is a soft crepe woven fabric with small crosswise ribs and similar to crepe de chine but heavier.

Charmeuse is a satin weave silk with a crepe back sometimes called crepe backed satin.

Chiffon is transparent soft and light silk. It can also be woven of cotton or man-made fibres.

China silk is a plain weave silk of various weights. This silk is the "hand" or touch that many people identify as silk. There are various weights of China silk from light, used for linings and many "washable silks" with the wrinkled look, to heavy for shirts and dresses.

Doupioni is reeled from double cocoons nested together. The threads are uneven and irregular. Italian Doupioni is the finest, followed by Chinese Doupioni and Indian Doupioni. Doupioni is also seen in man-made fibers such as polyester, acetate and referred to as Doupionini. Silk Doupioni is most often found in men’s and women’s fine suits and also dresses in lighter weight silk Doupioni.

Faille is soft ribbed silk with wider ribs than seen in grosgrain ribbon and slightly glossy.

Georgette is sheer crepe silk, heavier than chiffon and with a crinkle surface.

Matelasse has raised woven designs, usually jacquard, with the appearance of puckered or quilted.

WOOL fabric brings to mind cosy warmth. Some wools are scratchy giving some people the idea that they are "allergic" to wool. Although wool fibre comes from a variety of animal coats, not all wool’s are scratchy but rather extremely soft. The wool fibres have crimps or curls which create pockets and give the wool a spongy feel and create insulation for the wearer. The outside surface of the fibre consists of a series of serrated scales which overlap each other much like the scales of a fish. Wool is the only fibre with such serration’s which make it possible for the fibres to cling together and produce felt. The same serration will also cling together tightly when wool is improperly washed and shrinks! Wool will not only return to its original position after being stretched or creased, it will absorb up to 30% of its weight in moisture without feeling damp. Its unique properties allow shaping and tailoring, making the wool the most popular fabric for tailoring fine garments. Wool is also dirt resistant, flame resistant, and, in many weaves, resists wear and tearing.

Basically, there are two different processes used in wool production. Woollen fabrics have a soft feel and fuzzy surface, very little shine or sheen, will not hold a crease, and are heavier and bulkier than worsteds. Blankets, scarves, coating, and some fabrics are considered woollens. Worsted wool is smoother than woollen, takes shine more easily, does not sag, holds a crease well, is lighter and less bulky, and wears longer than woollen. Worsted wool’s require a greater number of processes, during which fibres are arranged parallel to each other. The smoother, harder-surface worsted yarns produce smoother fabrics with a minimum of fuzziness and nap. Fine worsted wool is even seen in clothing for athletics such as tennis. No, they are not hotter than polyester but actually cooler, as the weave of the fabric allows wool to absorb perspiration and the fabric "breathes," unlike polyester.

WOOL SPECIALTY FIBERS, although still classified as wool, are further classified by the animal the fibre comes from.

Alpaca fleece is very rich and silky with considerable lustre. It comes from the Alpaca.

Mohair is from the angora goat and is highly resilient and strong. Mohair’s lustre, not softness, determines its value. Mohair is used in home decorating fabrics as well as garment fabrics including tropical worsteds.

Angora wool is from the angora rabbit. This soft fibre is used in sweaters, mittens and baby clothes.

Camel hair is from the extremely soft and fine fur from the undercoat of the camel. Camel’s hair can be used alone but is most often combined with fine wool for overcoating, topcoating, sportswear and sports hosiery. Because of the beauty of the colour, fabrics containing camel’s hair are usually left in the natural camel colour or dyed a darker brown. Light weight and soft, it is said that a 22 oz. camel fabric is as warm as a 32 oz. woollen fabric.

Cashmere is from the Kasmir goat down. Separation of the soft fibres from the long, coarse hair is tedious and difficult, contributing to the expense of the fabric. The soft hair is woven or knitted into fine garments and can also be blended with silk, cotton, or wool.

Vicuna is the softest coat cloth in the world. The amount of coarse hair to be separated from the soft fibres is negligible and yields the finest animal fibre in the world. Vicuna is a member of the Llama family and is small and wild. Since it is generally killed to obtain the fleece, it is protected by rigorous conservation measures. This fibre is rare and very expensive, costing several hundred dollars per yard.

Houndstooth check has a four pointed star check in a broken twill weave.

Jersey is a knit fabric that is usually knit in fine wool but can also be found in silk and man-made fibres.

Laine is French for "wool".

Lambsdown is a heavy knit fabric that has a spongy fleeced nap on one side.

Linsey-woolsey is a coarse fabric first made in Lindsey, England, of wool combined with flax or cotton.

Loden fabric is a thick, soft, waterproof, windproof, wool used in outerwear that has a characteristic green colour.

Mackinaw fabric is a heavy double fabric in striking coloured patterns.

Melton is a heavy, tick, short napped fabric without a finish press or gloss.

Merino wool is soft and luxurious, resembling cashmere. This term is also used to describe the finest wool’s.

Oatmeal Cloth is durable, soft wool with a pebbled face.

Panama Cloth is plain woven worsted wool, sometimes resembling the texture of Panama hat.

Petersham, a very thick, waterproof woollen coating, usually dark blue, is used for men’s trousers or heavy coats.

Pilot Cloth is a coarse, heavy, stout twilled woollen that is heavily napped and navy blue. Used by seamen.

Poodle Cloth is made with a boucle yarn and resembles the Poodle dog.

Rabbit Hair is used in woven wool’s as a substitute for vicuna to give a soft effect in the fabric.

Sharkskin is woven with warp and filling yarns of alternating white with black, brown or blue.

Tartan is a twilled plaid design, originally Scottish.

Tweed is rough textured wool, originally homespun and slightly felted. This fabric is sturdy with a mottled colour.

Virgin Wool is wool that has never been processed into fabric.

Beaver cloth is a heavy woollen overcoating, napped and pressed down to resemble beaver fur. This fabric is also a plush fabric that is used for hats.

Botany/Merino wool is fine wool made from worsted wool yarn.

Broadcloth is an all woollen or worsted fabric with a velvety feel.

Challis is light weight soft wool in plain weave, has a printed or woven design or flowers.

Cheviot, usually Scotch wool is soft, fine wool that is heavier than serge.

Chinchilla cloth is a heavy, spongy woollen overcoat fabric with a long nap that has been rubbed into a curly, nubby finish.

Donegal was originally a thick and warm homespun or tweed woven by Irish peasants in Donegal, Ireland. Donegal now describes the wool tweed that has colourful thick slubs woven into the fabric.

Felt fabric is a compact sheet of entangled, not woven wool, fur, sometimes cotton fibers. The felt is produced by processing a mat of fibers with moisture, heat, and pressure.

Flannel wool is a soft, lightweight fabric with a nap on one or both sides.

Gabardine is tightly woven wool twill with a high sheen. This fabric is excellent for tailoring and wears well.

Glen checks are usually seen in menswear and originated in Scotland. It is characterized by a variety of small, even check designs.

Harris tweed is a hand woven fabric from Scotland with a soft feel.

Heather Mixture describes tweeds and homespun’s that have colors of heather and sand of the Scottish heather fields.

Herringbone wool is woven in twill that is reversed at regular spacing, creating a sawtooth line.

Homespun is a loose, strong, durable woolen woven either by hand or machine with a coarse feel.