Southeast Asia 14th Edition, March 2008 [PDF] / se-asia-14-indonesia
.pdf270 N U S A T E N G G A R A • • L o m b o k
along this arc of islands that stretches towards Australia. If you get bored here it’s because you missed the nightly parties on sugar-white Gili island beaches, bypassed some of the best diving in the world, thumbed your nose at lush volcanoes waiting to be climbed, missed the Komodo dragons patrolling a parched, jagged landscape, or turned down the twists and turns of a Flores road trip. In other words, it’s your own fault.
The one drawback is that transportation between the islands can be unpredictable and maddening. Ferry, bus and flight departures are often less frequent than cancellations as you wander further east. But patience and intrepidness net rewards that will make your camera sing and your friends jealous.
Getting There & Away
Denpasar, Bali, is the main international gateway for Nusa Tenggara: you can go by ferry or plane across to Lombok, or fly to one of the other islands and work your way back.
Mataram, in Lombok, does have an international airport with SilkAir flights to Singapore. Merpati also flies twice weekly from Kupang, in West Timor, to Darwin, Australia.
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Getting Around |
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The easiest and most popular way to explore |
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Nusa Tenggara is to fly from Bali to Labuan- |
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bajo (Flores) or Kupang (West Timor) and |
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island-hop from there. |
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AIR |
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Merpati, IAT and Trigana cover most destina- |
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tions in Nusa Tenggara. Despite its manual |
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ticketing process, Trigana is the best choice. |
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Garuda, Adam Air, Batavia, Lion Air and |
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Wings Air offer routes to Mataram. |
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Mataram, Kupang and Labuanbajo are the |
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main air hubs and the most reliable places to |
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get a flight. Bima, Maumere and Ende also |
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have flights, though at the time of research |
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the schedules were eviscerated due to national |
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flight-safety upgrades. Overall, booking flights |
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in Nusa Tenggara can be a nightmare. Pur- |
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chase tickets from the point of departure, |
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and reconfirm at least once or you may get |
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bumped. Remember, schedule changes and |
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cancellations are the norm. |
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BOAT |
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Regular vehicle/passenger ferries connect |
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Bali–Lombok, Lombok–Sumbawa, Flores– |
l o n e l y p l a n e t . c o m
Sumbawa, and Flores–Sumba. Perama makes the run from Lombok to Flores and back, taking in Komodo and Rinca. There are also dive liveaboards that run a similar route, but offer adventure beneath the surface.
Pelni (www.pelni.com) has regular connections throughout Nusa Tenggara. Check the website for details.
BUS
Air-con coaches run across Lombok, Sumbawa, and from Kupang to Dili in Timor, but elsewhere small, slow minibuses are the only option. They constantly stop for passengers and drive around town for hours until full. A 100km ride can take up to four hours.
CAR & MOTORCYCLE
A motorcycle is an ideal way to explore Nusa Tenggara, but hiring one is not always easy outside Lombok. You can rent one in Bali or Lombok, and portage across by ferry. Bring an extra gas can, and don’t underestimate the sinuous, rutted roads. For groups, cars with driver/guides are a great option, and cost about US$40 a day.
LOMBOK
Lombok is an easy hop from Bali, and is the most popular spot in Nusa Tenggara. It has a spectacular, mostly deserted coastline with palm coves, Balinese Hindu temples, looming cliffs and epic surf. The majestic and sacred Gunung Rinjani rises from its centre – a challenging climb with rewards of seas and sunrise panoramas. And dive sites in the Gilis – Lombok’s biggest draw, a carless collection of islands that are sprinkled with great restaurants, sweet bungalows and infused with a party vibe – are patrolled by sharks and rays. Sun-drenched and nocturnal adventures await.
GETTING THERE & AWAY
Air
There are daily flights to/from Denpasar on
Merpati (%0370 621111; www.merpati.co.id) and Wings Air (%0370 629111; www.lionair.co.id). Lion Air (%0370 629111; www.lionair.co.id) and Garuda (%0370 638259; www.garuda-indonesia.com) operate daily flights to Surabaya with connections to Jakarta. SilkAir (%0370 628254; www.silkair.com) has two daily flights to/from Singapore. Departure tax is 10,000Rp for domestic flights and 100,000Rp for international.
l o n e l y p l a n e t . c o m |
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N U S A T E N G G A R A |
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L o m b o k |
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20 km 12 miles |
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Pulau |
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Kalong |
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Tano |
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SUMBAWA |
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0 0 |
Lawang |
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GiliPentangan |
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Pulau |
Nano |
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Pulau |
BelangPoto |
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Taliwang |
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Gili |
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Sugian |
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Sambelia |
LabuhanPandan |
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Labuhan |
Lombok |
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Selat |
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Alas |
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Blantung |
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Sembalun Lawang |
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Swela |
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Labuhan |
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Ekas Tanjung |
Ringgit |
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ObelObel |
Sajang |
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Sembalun |
Bumbung |
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Gunung |
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(2330m) |
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LOMBOK |
Sapit |
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Aikmel |
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Lenek |
Suralaga |
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Masbagik |
Selong |
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Sakra |
Haji |
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Keruak |
TanjungLuar |
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Kaliantan |
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Putih |
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Gunung |
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Rinjani |
(3726m) |
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TIMUR |
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Nangka |
Pomotong |
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Sikur |
Kali |
Langko Janapria |
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LOMBOKJerowaru |
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Awang |
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Babak |
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AkarAkar Anyar |
Bayan |
Senaru |
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Danau |
Segara |
Anak |
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ProtectedForestTamanNasional |
GunungRinjani |
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in |
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Kali |
Kotaraja |
PancordaoLendang |
Mantang |
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Kopang Terara |
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Mujur |
Ganti |
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(CENTRALLOMBOK) |
Rembitan |
NamparSadeBatu |
Teluk Ekas |
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Gerupak |
TanjungAan |
SayaGili |
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Men |
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Tanjung |
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LOMBOK |
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(WESTLOMBOK)ToBali |
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Sesaot |
Suranadi |
Cakranegara |
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Sweta Taman |
Narmada |
Kediri |
Bon |
Jeruk |
Gerung |
Kali |
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Penunjak |
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Mangkung |
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Kateng |
Sepi Keling |
SelongBlanak |
Tampa |
Mawan |
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Sabiris (716m) |
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Gili |
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Bangsal |
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Senggigi |
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Mataram |
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Lembar |
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Meno |
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Nanggu |
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Pemenang |
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SabirisMangsit |
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Ubung |
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BlongasTelukMekakiPengantap |
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Pantai |
Senggigi |
Selat Lombok |
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272 N U S A T E N G G A R A • • L o m b o k
Boat
Large car ferries travel from Bali’s Padangbai port to Lombok’s Lembar harbour every two hours (21,000Rp, 65,000Rp for motorcycles; five hours).
Perama (%0370-635928; Jl Pejanggik 66, Mataram) runs a variety of tours between Bali, Lombok and Komodo. Ships leave Padangbai daily at 9am for Gili Trawangan (200,000Rp, 4½ to 5½ hours), from where smaller boats connect to Gili Meno and Gili Air, before sailing on to Senggigi (six hours).
From Senggigi, Perama boats leave daily at 9am for the Gilis (70,000Rp) and for Padangbai (200,000Rp, five hours). From the Gilis, Perama runs 7am boats to Bangsal harbour, from where a minibus connects with the 9am Senggigi–Padangbai boat. Meals are provided on board.
From Sumbawa, public ferries leave Poto Tano for Labuhan Lombok, in east Lombok, hourly (12,500Rp, about 1½ hours).
Three Pelni (%0370-637212; Jl Industri 1, Mataram) ships do regular loops through Nusa Tenggara, each one stopping in Lembar.
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Bus |
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Long-distance public buses depart daily from |
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Mataram’s Mandalika terminal for major cities |
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in Bali and Java in the west, and to Sumbawa |
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in the east. Purchase tickets in advance from |
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travel agencies along Jl Pejanggik in Mataram. |
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Fares include the ferry crossings. |
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Perama runs bus/public-ferry services |
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between main tourist centres in Bali (Kuta- |
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Legian, Sanur, Ubud etc) and Lombok (Ma- |
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taram, Senggigi, Bangsal and Kuta). |
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GETTING AROUND |
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Bicycle |
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Empty but well-maintained roads, spectacular |
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vistas and plenty of flat stretches make cycling |
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in Lombok a dream. But you’d better bring |
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your own. |
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Bus & Bemo |
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Mandalika, Lombok’s main bus terminal, is |
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in Bertais, 6km southeast of central Mataram. |
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Regional bus terminals are in Praya, Anyar |
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and Pancor (near Selong). You may need to |
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transfer between terminals to get from one |
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part of Lombok to another. |
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Chartering a bemo can be an inexpensive |
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way to get around (175,000Rp per day) if |
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you’re travelling in a group. |
l o n e l y p l a n e t . c o m
Car & Motorcycle
Senggigi is the best place to rent wheels. Elsewhere, prices skyrocket and selection suffers. Suzuki Jimmys cost 150,000Rp per day, Kijangs are 225,000Rp. Motorcycles can be rented in Senggigi for 60,000Rp per day. Scooters are cheaper.
Lembar
%0370
Lembar, Lombok’s main port, is where ferries and Pelni ships dock (see left). Bus connections are abundant, and bemos run regularly to the Mandalika bus terminal (3500Rp), so there’s no reason to crash here.
Mataram
%0370 / pop 323,400
Lombok’s sprawling capital, actually a cluster of four towns – Ampenan (port), Mataram (administrative centre), Cakranegara (commercial centre) and Sweta (bus terminal) – has some charms. There are ample trees, decent restaurants and even a few cultural sights – including an old Balinese water temple and a bustling central market – but with Senggigi so close by few travellers spend any time here.
ORIENTATION
Ampenan-Mataram-Cakranegara-Sweta is connected by one busy thoroughfare that changes names from Jl Yos Sudarso to Jl Langko then Jl Pejanggik and Jl Selaparang. It’s one-way, from west to east. The parallel Jl Panca Usaha/Pancawarga/Pendidikan takes traffic back toward the coast.
INFORMATION
BCA, Mandiri and other banks on Jl Selaparang have ATMs. Most change foreign cash and travellers cheques.
The most reliable internet cafés are at the Mataram Mall.
Deddy’s (Mataram Mall; per hr 6000Rp) Internet access. Enter from parking lot.
Jatatur (%632878; jatatur@yahoo.com; Jl Panca Usaha Block A 12) Well-run travel agency with English-speaking staff, but even the most astute agents are stumped by the bizarro Nusa Tenggara flight schedules.
Main post office (%632645; Jl Sriwijaya) Has internet access for 6000Rp per hour.
Rumah Sakit Umum Mataram (%622254; Jl Pejanggik 6; h24hr) Medical services.
Sub post office (Jl Langko 21) More central than the main post office.
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N U S A T E N G G A R A |
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M a t a r a m |
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Labuhan |
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Lombok(50km) |
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To Praya (20km); |
Kuta (35km) |
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Brawijaya |
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Kali |
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Nursiwan |
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Jakatawang Jl |
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Jl Subak I |
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Hasanuddin Jl |
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Selaparang |
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Usaha |
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Ngurah |
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Pejanggik |
Repatmaja Jl |
Abimanyu Jl |
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Gede Jl |
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JlTransisto |
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Marzuki |
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Maktal Jl |
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Jl |
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Ismail |
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Panji |
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17 |
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Transmigrasi |
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See Enlargement |
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9 |
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Jl |
Cakranegara |
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Gosa |
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Usaha |
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Jelantik |
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18 |
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Panca |
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D1 |
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Mataram |
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ijaya |
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Mataram............................Mall 17 |
Rumah Makan Dirgahayu..........18 |
Seafood...............................Alfa 19 |
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Kebon Roek Terminal.................20 |
...........................................Pelni 21 |
Perama......................................22 |
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Cokroaminoto Jl |
Pejanggik |
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Pancawarga |
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Sutomo |
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Hakim |
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Jl |
Rahman |
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(17km) |
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Udayana Jl |
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PemenangC To |
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22 |
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3 |
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TRANSPORT |
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Selaparang Airport |
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Jangkok |
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Caturwarga |
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Jl Airlangga |
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Aroma........................................16 D1 |
Lesehan Taman Sari.................(see 17) |
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Mayura Water Palace..................10 F1 |
Pura Meru...................................11 F1 |
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Ganesha Inn...............................12 E1 |
Hotel Melati Viktor.....................13 E2 |
Karthika II Hotel..........................14 E1 |
Oka Homestay............................15 E1 |
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B Rembiga |
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Jl |
Pemuda |
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8 |
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Kali |
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Pendidikan |
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Sucipto |
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Langko |
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SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES |
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Majapahit |
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Jl |
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7 |
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Suprato Jl |
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Negara |
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Tilar |
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SingosariJl |
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jiPan Jl |
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SLEEPING |
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EATING |
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||||||||||||||
|
To Gunung Sari |
Art Market (3km); |
Senggigi (6km); |
Ampenan |
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Ampenan Market |
Koperasi |
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so |
|
21 |
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ATMs............................................1 E1 |
Deddy's........................................2 D1 Jatatur.......................................(see 9) |
Main Post Office..........................3 C3 |
|
(Hospital).................................4 D2 |
B2 |
B2 |
West Lombok Tourist Office........7 B2 |
|
Office......................................8 C3 |
Yahoo Internet.............................9 D1 |
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Rumah Sakit UmumMataram |
Sub-Post............................Office 5 |
.........................................Telkom 6 |
West Nusa TenggaraTourist |
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274 N U S A T E N G G A R A • • L o m b o k
Telkom (%633333; Jl Pendidikan 23; h24hr) Make telephone calls here.
West Lombok Tourist Office (%621658; Jl Suprapto 20; h8am-2pm Mon-Sat) Come for maps, not insight.
West Nusa Tenggara Tourist Office (%635874; Jl Singosari 2; h8am-3pm Mon-Sat, to 11am Fri) Englishspeaking staff knows more about Sumbawa than Lombok. Yahoo Internet (%627474; Mataram Mall A11; per hr 6000Rp) Internet access.
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
Everyone loves those sweet Balinese, but did you know they colonised Lombok for 100 years before the Dutch arrived? The proof is in the relics. Pura Meru (Jl Selaparang; admission by donation; h8am-5pm), built in 1720, is a Hindu temple with 33 shrines, and wooden drums that are thumped to call believers to ceremony. The nearby Mayura Water Palace (Jl Selaparang; admission by donation; h7am-7.30pm) was built in 1744 for the Balinese royal court.
The Bertais Market (h7am-5pm), near the bus terminal, is a great place to get localised after you’ve overdosed on the bule circuit. There are no tourists here, but it’s got everything else: fruit and veggies, fish (fresh and dried), baskets full of colourful, aromatic spices and grains, freshly butchered beef, palm sugar, enormous and pungent bricks of shrimp paste, and cheaper handi-
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crafts than anywhere else in Lombok. |
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SLEEPING |
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A handful of good budget options are hid- |
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den among the quiet streets off Jl Pejanggik/ |
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Selaparang, east of Mataram Mall. |
A |
Ganesha Inn (%624878; Jl Subak 1; s/d 30,000/ |
I |
40,000Rp) Stylish exterior, nice location, but the |
N E S |
rooms are yellow at the edges. It’s the kind of |
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place that begs the question, why are these |
N D |
walls so dirty? |
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Oka Homestay (%622406; Jl Repatmaya 5; d from |
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40,000Rp) Balinese-owned, this garden com- |
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pound patrolled by three friendly poodles is |
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another great deal. Rooms are fan cooled and |
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quite clean. |
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Karthika II Hotel (%641776; Jl Subak I 16; s/d/tr |
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65,000/70,000/80,000Rp; a) This is a nice court- |
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yard place with a Balinese theme, but choose |
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rooms wisely. Some of the standard rooms are |
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in better shape than the VIPs. Air-con rooms |
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cost 20,000Rp more. |
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Hotel Melati Viktor (%633830; Jl Abimanyu 1; d from |
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80,000Rp; a) The high ceilings, clean rooms and |
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Balinese-style courtyard, complete with Hindu |
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statues, make this the best value in town. |
Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com
EATING & DRINKING
Mataram Mall (Jl Pejanggik; hlunch & dinner) Satisfy your sweet tooth with doughnuts, pastries and cakes from Mirasa Modern Bakery or Hokky Cake Shop.
Rumah Makan Dirgahayu (%637559; Jl Cilinaya 19; rice dishes from 7,000Rp, seafood from 25,000Rp; hbreakfast, lunch & dinner) This popular Makassar-style place opposite the mall, with gurgling fountains and twirling ceiling fans, is an ideal lunch oasis on sweaty afternoons.
Aroma (Jl Pejanggik; meals from 15,000Rp; hlunch & dinner) This modern, spotless Chinese seafood restaurant serves an outstanding fried gurami (local freshwater fish; 35,000Rp) accompanied by a fiery sweet chilli sauce.
Lesehan Taman Sari (%629909; Mataram Mall; meals 25,000Rp; hlunch & dinner) Attached to the mall, this place wins with ambience and multicourse traditional Lombok meals, served on banana leaves and enjoyed in stilted, thatched beruga (huts) set around a lush garden. This is where locals go at night.
Seafood Alfa (%660088; Jl Pejanggik; grilled fish 30,000Rp; hlunch & dinner) A bright, friendly place, set in a strip mall, that specialises in grilled fish and noodle dishes.
GETTING THERE & AROUND
See p270 for information on flights and airlines.
Mandalika terminal, on the eastern fringe of the Mataram area, has regular bemo to Lembar (3500Rp, 30 minutes, 22km), Labuhan Lombok (11,000Rp, 69km), and Pemenang, for the Gili islands (6000Rp, 31km). The Kebon Roek terminal in Ampenan has bemo to Senggigi (3000Rp, 10km).
Yellow bemo shuttle passengers between the Kebon Roek and Mandalika terminals (1500Rp), where you may also charter bemo.
Perama (%635928; Jl Pejanggik 66) runs bus services across Lombok and its neighbouring islands.
Around Mataram
Puri Lingsar (admission by donation; hdawn-dusk) is the oldest, holiest temple complex in Lombok. Built in 1714 by King Agung, it has two sides, one for Hindus and a second one built for followers of the Wektu Telu religion. Today it is considered a multidenominational wing that unites Hindu, Islam and animist faiths. Feed the holy eels, and make a wish.
l o n e l y p l a n e t . c o m
The Gunung Sari Art Market (Jl Gunung Sari; h9am5pm), 3km west of Mataram, is a collection of a dozen art shops, each with much better deals on masks, bowls, baskets and other local handicrafts than you’ll find in Senggigi.
Senggigi
%0370
You can spend a lifetime of travel in search of the perfect beach, and it would be hard to top those around Senggigi, Lombok’s original tourist town. Think: a series of sweeping bays with white-sand beaches, coconut palms, cliff and mountain backdrops, and blood-red views of Bali’s Gunung Agung at sunset. There are sweet, inexpensive guesthouses, a few luxury hotels and dozens of restaurants and bars. Senggigi has everything, except tourists. Well, it’s not completely empty, but it’s desolate enough (except during July and August) to feel a bit strange. Still, the sheer beauty of the place is worth a night or two.
ORIENTATION & INFORMATION
Senggigi spans nearly 10km of coast. Hotels, shops, banks and restaurants are clustered
N U S A T E N G G A R A • • L o m b o k 275
along a central strip starting 6km north of Ampenan.
Police station (%110) Also next to the Pasar Seni.
Senggigi Medical Clinic (%673210) Based at the Senggigi Beach Hotel.
Super Star Net Café (%693620; Senggigi Plaza B1/05; per hr 18,000Rp) High-speed internet access.
Telkom Near the Pasar Seni (Art Market).
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
Pura Batu Bolong (admission 5000Rp; hdawn-dusk) is a small Balinese-Hindu temple set on a rocky volcanic outcrop that spills into the sea, 2km south of central Senggigi. The detailed pagodas are oriented towards Gunung Agung, Bali’s holiest mountain. You’ll need to wear a sash to enter the temple.
Another must is to rent a motorbike and cruise the coast. You’ll skirt fishing villages, palm groves and discover wide, deserted beaches. It’s a soul-stirring, breathtaking drive.
There’s decent snorkelling off the rocky point that bisects Senggigi’s sheltered bay in front of Windy Cottages; many hotels and restaurants in central Senggigi hire out mask- snorkel-fin sets for 25,000Rp per day.
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Pondok Siti Hawa......................12 D3 |
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Police Station................................1 B1 |
Raja’s Bungalows........................13 B1 |
8 |
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Sonya Homestay.........................14 B1 |
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EATING |
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Batu Bolong |
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Bumbu Café...............................(see 7) |
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SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES |
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Café Alberto..............................15 C2 |
igi |
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Dive Indonesia..............................6 B1 |
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Dream Divers................................7 B1 |
Lina Hotel Bar..........................(see 11) |
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Pura Batu Bolong.........................8 C2 |
Papaya Café...............................16 B1 |
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Batu Layar |
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Batu Bolong Cottages..................9 C2 |
Chartered Boats to |
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Hotel Elen...................................10 B1 |
Gili Islands..............................17 B1 |
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Lina Hotel...................................11 B2 |
Perama.......................................18 B1 |
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