From toile to Block
The clotted lines are the fitting lines of the two halves of the toile, as it came off the figure. The fine vertical lines are the Centre Front and Centre Back lines, as marked on the toile. The solid line is the trial outline for the intermediate pattern, drawn from the toile but taking account of the model's measurements. Note how much higher the final armhole is than on the toile.
Marking fitting lines - After removing the toile from the model, lay it on a flat surface. With a fine marker or soft pencil, draw all the fitting lines on the toile by following the lines of pins. Make balance (alignment) marks on the side seams at waist level. Check you have marked both sides of every fitting line before taking out the pins. At this point the toile, with the Front and Back folded vertically, may be irregular
like the dotted outlines.
Transferring fitting lines onto paper - If the toile material is light enough, mark through it with a fine pen or sharp pencil. Otherwise cut along the fitting lines and draw round the edges. Remember to label each piece of the toile, e.g. 'Left Front', 'Right
Back', etc. Draw lines in pencil to allow for corrections.
Back - Rule a vertical line longer than the toile on a sheet of pattern paper, close to the left edge,
and mark this 'CB' (Centre Back). Centre the Back of the open toile on this line and transfer the fitting lines of the right half onto the paper. Turn the toile over and re- centre the Back on the line. Transfer the fitting lines from the left half of the Back on top of the Right Back. Front - Rule another vertical line, for the Centre Front, on the right of the paper, leaving enough space to transfer both Fronts to the left of this line. Transfer as for the Back.
Checking measurements - Compare the dimensions of the toile, now on paper, with the model's listed chest/bust, waist and hip measurements. The toile sizes should be about 5 cm larger (up to 10 cm on very large sizes) to allow for ease; a woman's waist should have 8 to 10 cm ease.
Trial outline - Draw a trial outline from the two dotted versions, smoothing out the irregularities. Check that the shoulder lines are the same length on Back and Front. Make the Underarm Point (UP) higher rather than lower, as it is hard to cut it high enough on the model. On women's patterns (Fig 18) it is often useful to move some of the hip shaping on the Back from the side seam to the Centre Back, beyond the Centre Back line.
29
16
20 cm
From intermediate pattern to Block
Mark adjustments from the fitting onto your trial outline drawing (Fig 15). For major alterations, repeat the previous stage and make another trial fitting. When you are satisfied with the fit, draft a sleeve pattern to match (see below). Check the fit again with the sleeves set into the bodice (see below).
Make a clean copy on paper of the final pattern, marking the main balance points (add BP on the Back armhole after making the sleeve Block). Add a list of measurements beside it for reference. This is your personal bodice Block: keep the original and trace it off for each new garment pattern. For frequent use, it's worth drawing it on a sheet of mounting board.